Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
This Wednesday is race night. Following the race I will be lowering the mast and removing teh standing rigging to send it in to Rigging Shoppe for inspection and rebuilding.
I will try to make up a photo-documentary of lowering the mast and removing the rigging, but no guarantees, depends on weather and crew.
If anyone has tips with regards to removing teh rigging, please let me know. I have the mast-lowering bits under control.
One thing that is interesting is that the tangs that hold my lowers in place are welded to the mast. I don't know if that is normal, but it will be difficult to undo the cotter pins under there. I am also a little nervous about the pins in the masthead. If they are tough, I won't have time to wait for penetrating oil to work its way into the pins.
Beyond a hammer, screwdrivers, needlenose pliers, and drive punches, what else should I have on hand to strip the mast?
Getting the cotter keys out of the clevis pins for my lowers was a real treat. I needed a big pair of channel locks and a set of vice grips for that one. I also used a small set of bolt cutters and snipped the eye off of one, and wiggled the key out 'backwards', in two pieces.
The uppers (on mine, at least) are held in with the 3/8 through bolt that holds the mast step on. I got mine loosened about 3 turns before it galled and seized. Would definitely recommend some never-seez or even motor oil or something on those threads- it was a real pain to break.
Also, if you aren't aware, the fore and aft lowers ARE different lengths. If you get them backwards, the mast will be all crooked and you'll have to bring it down and start over and then you'll break stuff and take a week and your friends will get mad that they can't sail and drink all the beer in your apartment. So get them right!
A propane torch can help loosen corroded items in aluminum.
The masthead pins tend to get stuck in place. Heat the masthead while trying to keep as much heat off the pins. The difference in expansion rates of the two metals should make it easier to get the pins out.
Be careful not to overheat the masthead extrusion. It doesn't have to be glowing red hot, just somewhat warmer than the pin. Then take a blunt end punch and a hammer and give the pin a good sharp smack. With any luck at all it will pop right out.
Thanks Gary and Viper. The riggers are doing the install, so if things go on backwards, I blame them. Good idea on teh torch and cutters guys. I'll have to round up some before Wednesday night.
A couple of brand new hacksaw blades might not go amiss, and a can of PB Blaster to encourage recalcitrant fittings. Leather gloves for handling grumpy wire. Something to cradle the head & foot of the mast on their pulpits, fenders work reasonably well, I've also used the garden kneeling pads. Long enough line to lower the mast with (I think Alex calculated about 75' for his TR when we lowered his mast a while back). Duct tape for wrapping the coils of wire and other little bits that like to get lost (I lost a turnbuckle on the freeway once, vibrated off the end of the forestay, a bit of tape would have kept it from rotating).
Do you have one of the small torches that let you use a pinpoint flame?
Yes, we used a 75' main sheet to lower my mast (with the boom setup as a gin pole). The 75' length happens to be the normal length for a jib sheet, so you may already have one.
My normal mainsheet length is closer to 50' (and it could be shorter and still be fine).
Lets see, Sledge hammer, Jack hammer, Acetylene torch, 40 ton press, Bulldozer and of course Duct Tape. I'm sure you have notified the Fire dept. and will have the E.M.S standing by. O.K I think your ready unless I forgot something...
If you need to label the shrouds, use a sheet of address file labels or file labels. You should be able to just remove the shrouds, leaving the hardware on the mast. Are you planning on replacing mast hardware, too? Good luck!
We'll be replacing whatever teh rigger says. No point messing around with this stuff. I haven't replaced anything but one turnbuckle and a T-bolt in 5 years. Dunno what the PO did.
As i said, we'll try to get some good photo-documentation of the strip-down, but no promises.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.