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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

outside teak

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/12/2003 : 17:48:33

quick question about the outside teak..
my freind and i are wondering what the best product to apply on the outside teak is. I am in favor of using cetol for all the outside teak, hatch doors, and tiller. Even though the color is not the best it is durable. He insists on using teak oil.

thanks

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2003 : 18:10:44

Marco - we've had many a discussion about the outside teak...the consensus is to go with Cetol. The problem with oils is that they deteriorate in sunlight and even mildew (yech!). Cetol, even in the hot S.Texas summer, will last almost 2 years. For the tiller I personally used 3 coats of polyurethane to allow the laminations to show the grain - it looks beautiful.
Derek

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Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2003 : 18:18:19

I used Cetol "Light". No off color problems with that. The big job was belt sanding and prep work before applying it. Worth the effort. I did all the exterior teak including new teak hatch boards purchased from Catalina Direct.

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2003 : 18:38:37

thanks alot for your quick responses

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2003 : 10:12:05

I use Sikkens Cetol Marine... it comes in a couple 'flavors'... the original dark finish, a lighter finish, and a satin finish.

The material 'builds' with multiple coats and can be easily 'retouched' by dipping synthetic steel wool in the cetol and applying some elbow grease. Beats sanding anyday.

I have been completely pleased with the results.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2003 : 15:06:58

i went out and bought the cetol but i got the "gloss" one because i want to keep the color of the wood just the way it is... is this different than the light one mentioned above? or is it simply color..

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2003 : 16:17:36

I haven't used the 'light' one myself yet... so I unfortunately, can't comment on it directly.

I can say that the original 'gloss' Sikkens gives a slight brown... say... maple syrup...coloration.

I think if you have nice figure in your teak and it's in good shape, the lighter one might be very pleasing... however, for the "well-aged" (vintage?) teak on my current project boat, the darker color hides a lot of the defects.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 01/13/2003 : 19:58:21

I like Cetol.

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df32b3127cce93e75e65db4b0000001410" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df32b3127cce93e77ec9dbf70000001410" border=0>

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2003 : 11:54:06

<font color=blue>The material 'builds' with multiple coats and can be easily 'retouched' by dipping synthetic steel wool in the cetol and applying some elbow grease. Beats sanding anyday. - ClamBeach</font id=blue>

Hi Clam,

That sounds like a great idea ... but what is "synthetic steel wool" ... ?

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>

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jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2003 : 12:12:20

Hi all,

There's always a contrarian...I used Armada with excellent results. It doesn't orange and I have had to recoat only once in three years.

You use a 3M purple pad to "tooth" the surface, followed by an acetone wipe-down. Easy.

The color of the stuff in the can is like "baby poop", but it goes on clear and stays tuff.

For the first treatment:
Good prep. The first coat takes about 48 hours to dry. You do not sand or rough up for the next two coats. They take about 8 hours to dry.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958
Half Moon Bay, CA

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2003 : 19:44:55

"Synthetic Steel Wool" is a synthetic scrubbing/finishing pad made by 3M... the consistency is somewhat similar to a brillo pad... or other synthetic pads on the market.

Each sheet is perforated so you can easily seperate a little chunk.. about 1-1/2" x 4"... which are just the right size for refinishing in tight areas.

When used in combination with the cetol you are basically smoothing out the old finish and put on new material at the same time.

It leaves a nice classic 'burnished' appearance.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.