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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

running rigging for asym spinnaker (gennaker)

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/26/2012 : 07:29:40

I bought a slightly used asym spinnaker yesterday. It includes a snuffer sock, sheets, and tacking strap. It is basically this one if you check every item on this page and hit order:
http://www.nsd.northsails.com/product/tabid/62/productid/129/sename/gen-30-gennaker-30/default.aspx

For now I'll just run this down to my mast, but it will eventually be routed back to the cockpit along with my other halyards.

I know that I'll need an additional halyard. I've purchased this block to mount on the front of my masthead (Garhauer 30-series):
http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=70

I also have 100' of the NovaTech XLE 5/16" line that I'll use for the halyard.

Do most boats setup a second set of blocks for the tracks to manage the that are mounted farther aft than the primary set? Or do you run both sets of sheets through the same blocks and just move the blocks when you hoist the spinnaker?

I think that's it, am I missing anything? Why do some boats setup a masthead crane when the masthead already includes provisions for mounting a spinnaker halyard block?

Alex W
Seattle, WA
Express 37 "re-Quest"
previously owned 1984 Catalina 25 "Lutra"

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:12:35

I don't mount my spin sheet blocks on the genoa track. For both the Asym and Sym spinnaker, I attach the snatch blocks to the aft dock cleats on both sides. Take a piece of line (about 1/4" should be enough) about 2 or 2 1/2' long, and tie it in a loop, using a bowline knot. Shackle a snatch block to the loop. Then push part of the loop through the hole in the center of the dock cleat, and pull that part of the loop over the horns of the cleat. Then run your spin sheet through that block, and bring it forward to the primary winch, where you can use the winch to control the tension. Some people attach a piece of very thin bungee cord to the snatch block, to prevent it from falling against the gel coat when the sheet becomes slack.

Don't forget to remove the loops and snatch block from your dock cleats before you dock the boat.

You can buy a prefabricated Dyneema loop from Annapolis Performance Sailing or elsewhere for about $40. each, but I use this method with 3/8" line on my C&C 35, and it works just as well.

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awetmore
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Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:20:03

Thanks Steve.

Is the advantage of that method that it gets them farther out from the centerline of the boat compared to having blocks on the farthest aft location of the tracks?

I like that solution because there are other uses for snatch blocks on the boat too. Track mounted blocks aren't cheap (snatch blocks aren't either, of course).

I'm very excited about the new sail.

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awetmore
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Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:25:15

Also, in this thread you recommend a downhaul:
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19605

How is that rigged? Is it an adjustable line attached to the tack of the spinnaker, or is it rigged like a jib downhaul and running up to the head of the spinnaker? The former makes more sense to me than the latter.

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5909 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:41:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by awetmore
 Thanks Steve.

Is the advantage of that method that it gets them farther out from the centerline of the boat compared to having blocks on the farthest aft location of the tracks?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Truthfully, I don't know what the advantage is. As I recall, when I was looking for ideas about how to rig it on my boat, I found that idea, tried it, and it was simple, inexpensive and it worked great.

You're going to love the asym and especially the snuffer. With the snuffer, I can hoist and douse my asym singlehanded on my C&C 35, and, when you want to sail off the wind a bit, the sail really makes the boat perk up. You can't go wrong with the quality of a North sail either.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 07/26/2012 08:46:08

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:45:01

I installed a crane to get the block out and away from the masthead as I had clearance issues with my forestay/fuler when I first tried using just a block on the forward most clevis pin.

I use a 1/4" line for the spinnaker halyard.

The spin sheet cars/blocks should be lead well aft near the stern.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 08:58:36

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 09:10:17

On my 1978 C25 the genoa track extends to the transom, and one of the previous owners installed blocks on cars near the aft end of the track for the gennaker sheets. They function very well in that position, in my experience.

The stock masthead crane on my boat holds the spinnaker halyard block.

I attached a block at the stem fitting so that I can adjust the 4' steel cable (pennant) attached to the tack of my gennaker. Then with a line led back to a winch in the cockpit, I can adjust the height of the foot of the gennaker. This allows me to trim the sail somewhat by flattening it for reaching, or filling it for running.

[url="http://www.ukhalsey.com/LearningCenter/encyclopedia/encyclopedia4d.asp"]From UK Halsey's guidance on foresail performance:[/url]
The graph shows that the flatter asymmetrics, which fly closer to the boat, are best at tight angles, while fuller sails that lift and fly out away from the boat are better at the wider angles. The graph shows some other interesting points:

There is a trade-off between pointing and power. Flatter sails can be carried at narrower angles, but ultimately they don't develop as much driving power as the deeper sails. Any sail produces greater power when eased slightly from its closest possible angle of trim. At wider angles the performance falls off gradually. At narrower angles the performance falls off quickly, particularly in the flatter sails.

Edited by - JohnP on 07/26/2012 09:12:41

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 09:20:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by awetmore
 Also, in this thread you recommend a downhaul:
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=19605

How is that rigged? Is it an adjustable line attached to the tack of the spinnaker, or is it rigged like a jib downhaul and running up to the head of the spinnaker? The former makes more sense to me than the latter.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

The downhaul is attached to the tack of the sail, and it allows you to adjust the tension on the luff of the sail. More tension on the luff allows you to point higher. Less tension generates more power when sailing farther off the wind. I have seen asyms rigged with a tack pendant with a fixed length, but I like the fact that the adjustable downhaul gives more flexibility in tensioning the asym's luff.

On my C&C, I attached a snatch block to my anchor roller, but you'll have to figure out an attachment point for the Catalina. Someone here will be able to tell you where you can attach it.

I have heard the term "downhaul" used in different ways, but I would call the latter (a line running to the head of a sail) a "dousing line," because it is used to help pull the sail down.

As I understand it, a "downhaul" is a device used to adjust the tension on the luff of a sail, or to resist the tension of a halyard.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 07/26/2012 : 09:31:18

Thanks for the help guys. Steve: I think I'll be able to attach the downhaul block to the front of the stem. My boat used to have roller furling, so it already has blocks mounted to run a line back to the cockpit and I can use that for the downhaul.

John: On my '84 the track also runs all the way aft. I think I'll try the snatch block option first though, because I can use those in other places too. I may try just using my existing blocks first because that is the cheapest option and my wife is already giving me a hard time about purchasing this sail...

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 07/28/2012 : 14:35:37

We got it flying today:

The halyard was easy to rig and a friend volunteered to go up the mast for me. I got the Garhauer blocks for the spinnaker sheets and mounted them near the stern. We didn't have a lot of time to try it out today, but we did a couple of practice jybes and that all went pretty easily. We had very light wind and the spinnaker pulled us along much more quickly than the main+genoa would have. The snuffer makes it really easy to deploy and retrieve. I didn't run a downhaul today, but will rig that for the next sea trial.

I need to play with the tack setup, the spinnaker got twisted slightly at the tack when we jybed because the hank didn't come around with it. I have a tacking strip (like the ATN Tacker) and can use that next time, I didn't think it would necessary since we don't have roller furling.

This is a North Sails Gennaker 30 (which is one of their stock models) and it works pretty nicely. A 33 might fit on the tall mast (the 30 is what they recommend for standard), but it would be pushing it.

Edited by - awetmore on 07/28/2012 14:37:31

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