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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Could someone suggest what to do with a stuck seacock. I recently acquired BEEN THERE (1986 Cat 25) and decided that my long list of repairs and upgrades should start with a thorough inside cleaning. We’re down here in south Florida where boats pretty much stay in the water all year, which is nice, but mildew prevails, which is not nice. While cleaning the forward section I discovered that the through-hull under the veebirth, connected to the sink in the head, is stuck in an open position. I just had the boat hauled and the bottom done, so rehaulling to remove the fitting is not now an option . Would something like WD 40 help? Should I try to force it closed? Or just ignore it?
Lubrication probably won't do much good. The problem is inside the valve housing where lubrication will be difficult.
Without pulling the boat from the water there are two ways I can see you changing the valve. The dry way would be to dive under the boat and hammer a wooden plug into the exit hole. Then using a wrench on the pipe under the valve and another on the valve, carefully remove and replace. Remember, if you break the seal on the pipe thru-hull you will have a bigger problem then before. The other way would be to just do as discribed above but don't use a plug. Have the new valve at the ready when the old comes off and fight the geyser.<img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> I fight the geyser when I pull my knotmeter paddle wheel for cleaning. This is a bit frightening at first but you get used to it. I'm sure there will be better ideas from others. Like ignore the whole thing until the next time you are on the hard.
Ed Montague on 'Yahoo' 1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~
When I first read of your predicament and your options(trying to close the stuck valve or just leaving it open), I thought that was like choosing between hanging or a firing squad, because leaving it open is risky and so is trying to turn it and possibly breaking it while in the water. My first question is, how much insurance are you carrying? Just kidding!
But seriously, what kind of valve is it? Gate, ball? Is it mounted to a thru-hull or to-hull?
If the valve is connected to a "to-hull", I don't think you should be applying to much pressure to it since some have been known to twist out by hand. If you have an actual thru-hull, then it might withstand a little knocking around. In either case, I would be a little cautious and avoid monkeying with the valve while the boat is in the water, and would probably leave it as it is until the next soonest haulout since it's probably been this way for awhile. If you opt to leave it, I would make sure that the hose that is connected to this valve is in good shape as well as the hose clamps. Oh, yeah...I would keep a cone plug and mallet handy, just in case.
Another option would be to borrow a trailer and throw the boat on it while you work the valve just in case the worst case scenario takes place.
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
Perhaps you could swim down and put a wood plug in the thru hull opening and then remove the hose connection from the inside and place a new shut off valve in-line with the stuck open valve. This would be some cheap insurance until you pull the boat next time and then you can remove the thru hull and repair or replace it properly.
Since this valve is under the V berth there may be an alternative to hauling out. Maybe you could get yourself a keg(1/2 barrel) and put it in the cockpit. Next, invite 5 or 6 of your heaviest friends to sit on your transom and have a few beers. This will probably lift the bow out of the water allowing you to safely work on the valve, and the 1/2 barrel should give you some time in which to do it! Whadda ya think?
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
Without knowing more about the exact hardware you have, I second Don Lucier's <b><i>earlier</i></b> advice (<b><i>not</i></b> the part about the keg of beer). That is, don't screw around with it while the boat is in the water. Some of the original equipment could be fragile by now.
When I first picked up my C-25 in south Florida to sail it home, one of the valve handles crumbled when a curious crew member tried to turn it. Two of the "to-hulls" came out by hand when I went to replace them with real thru-hulls and seacocks during my first haulout.
Can you provide us with a photo of the valve showing its attachment to the hull?
For Gods sake man use your head. Well perhaps not your head but a rubber bung. Jump into that nice warm water and plug the hole from the outside. Then go inside and fix the valve. If its the small black plastic type I even have two used ones you could have. dgyoung50@msn.com. Heat and WD40 work it loose with a few taps on the body. If it wont open unscrew it and replace it.
<b>"Heat and WD40 work it loose with a few taps on the body. If it wont open unscrew it and replace it."</b>
Doug,
What if he has the kind of to-hull that just pops out when handled or twisted? If he were to plug the hole from the outside, unscrew the valve and inadvertently break the to-hull, he would be in somewhat of a pickle. His only option would be an immediate haulout to install a thru-hull, because I don't think it would be prudent to sail for any length of time with a bung protruding from the hull.
Don Lucier, 'North Star' C25 SR/FK Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie
I had a similar problem with my 85 after I purchased it last summer. Mine's a thru-hull so yours probably is too. My wife and I were out this fall during a cold snap (about 45-50F). When we got in, I gave the aft seacock the usual try and oddly enough, it turned easy. I figured it was a fluke, so I tried closing the bow seacock and it turned easily as well. Ever since then, I've been openning and closing them once each time I'm out there to keep them lose. I've also noticed that they are a little harder to turn on warm days.
So, here's my goofy suggestion. Pack them with ice. Let it cool down for a few minutes and give it try. Worse case you'll have ice to cool down that keg!
Thanks guys for the well thought suggestions.I especially like the keg idea,and icing it down - the seacock I mean.I will, however, immediately pick up a tappered plug and check the hose to the through-hull (to-hull?). I'm also thinking of calling the Catalina Company.They should know what was installed in 1986. As to the question,"Where in south Florida?" We're in Stuart.
Now I can report that my problem with the stuck seacock has been resolved. Following John M's (Deckhand)experience, a couple of days ago when the temperature here in Stuart, Florida dropped to 32F I rechecked the seacocks -- and they turned! Thanks John. And by the way,they are made of a black composition (plastic?). Ken Saum, "Been There"
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Now I can report that my problem with the stuck seacock has been resolved. Following John M's (Deckhand)experience, a couple of days ago when the temperature here in Stuart, Florida dropped to 32F I rechecked the seacocks -- and they turned! Thanks John. And by the way,they are made of a black composition (plastic?). Ken Saum, "Been There"
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.