Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
1) <u>Compression post</u> - I noticed a small crack & indentation on my cabin top/mast step. Coupled with my impression that the standing rigging has gotten looser all season. How do I check the compression post and mast step for decay. Is there a footing in the bilge where the compression post sits on the keel? Whats encased in fiberglass above the floor? Is there an actual post in the teak trim coming from the roof to the fiberglass encasement above the floor?
2) Why is the foot so short on a Catalina 25 <u>mainsail</u> std rig?
3) Are my <u>chainplates</u> bedded in compromised laminate? My port bulkhead shows water damage streaks (port side upper shroud). How are the chainplates attached to them (yes, I see the bolts, but is there reinforcement?). Will tapping the deck by the eyelets indicate anything. I don't see water or wetness coming thru in the cabin.
4) My bottom sides are a patchwork of multi-layers of built up paint and bare spots. When it was around 60 degrees this fall, I thru some <u>paint stripper </u>on as a test.....it didnt work. Since we have a very short season here in Ma., do I wait for 70-80 degree days and try to strip again, or just sand and prep the bare areas and paint.......shes tight in my yard next to neighbors house so I dont want to blast.
Hello, This past spring I tackled the bottom on Peanut. The bottom paint was in very bad shape, many layers and flaking off in spots. Fin keel was also in bad shape, rust spots and a bit of the Catalina smile. I really did not want to use paint stripper, but after pricing other options, I decided to try a soy based stripper. I read an article from Good Old Boat that recommended Frammers Soy strip. Peanut had been out of the water for over a year, so the bottom was dry. I was surprised that the power washer actually took off much of the thick paint with a 25 degree tip. The remaining paint was easily removed with the soy strip. I liberally applied the stripper with a paint brush and covered it with plastic wrap. I only covered about 1/6 of the bottom at one time. 6-8 hours later I peeled off the plastic and the paint easily scraped off with a plastic scraper. Be sure to put down plastic to catch the mess. After using the soy strip, only a very thin layer of paint was left and was easily removed with 80 grit on an orbital sander. Bottom line is that I was impressed with the soy strip's performance and only used about 1.5 - 2 gallons to do the whole bottom of the boat.
On the subject of paint strippers, you should be aware that not all paint strippers are suitable for stripping paint off of a gelcoated fiberglass boat. Most paint strippers that are made for general use are too aggressive for use on boats, and will dissolve the gelcoat, even though the package might have a picture of a boat on it. There are strippers that are specifically designed for fiberglass boats. Be sure that's what you use.
On my dinette interior, the compression sits on the forward bench seat which is reinforced with a 4" x 4" block as a stiffener. The load is not transferred directly to the bilge/keel in the usual sense, only to the bench.
In this borrowed picture, you can see the block inside the seat directly under the compression post. Some have reported this stiffening block being rotted away.
On my boat, a fin keeler, the block is shaped as illustrated below with a curve cut in it as if it were going on a swing keel boat to accommodate the curve of the swing keel trunk. Additionally, there is a finger wide gap between the top of the stiffener and the bench seat top.
The foot of the main is not short, the boom is long. I imagine Catalina do this due to the transom mounted traveller.
When I purchased my boat, the bottom needed a redo as the paint was flaking off in chunks rather easily. I removed the old paint using a draw type hand scraper which shattered the built up, brittle paint.
While the compression post sits on the bench seat and a 4x4 brace is glassed in underneath (which may or may not be compromised, the post is also bolted to the bulkhead for support. This is the kind of redundancy that Frank Butler built into our boats, so except for the swing-keel cable, several systems have to fail outright to take them out.
I will look today. It is probably harder to see with the non-dinette model? Flashlight and mechanics mirror?
Still confuse alittle tho, what runs from the brace/bloc to the roof of the cabin? Is there something encased/framed in the teak wood (as shown in pic in Dons photo?). That teak is a cover for the compression post,yes/no?
That's a good question. I've read that the post leading from the underside of the cabintop underneath the mast tabernacle is actually 4 pieces of 5/4 teak fitted together with a hollow inside and it's not a solid piece. If there's a wooden or metal post inside that, I don't know. I do know that the cabintop is formed into a nice arch, and as we know from Roman architecture, it provides a solid and rigid support. That's the good news. If you want to remove the mast, remove and check the post, check the footing and see whether it extends to the keel or get three of your heaviest friends to jump on it to see if there's any "give", go to it. The results should help you sleep better at night.
Compression Post - On my Fin Keel/Trad Interior I can see a 4x4 in the bilge directly under the mast compression post; the weight of the mast and the rigging loads are carried directly to the keel. I would be shocked (shocked, I say) if every boat did not have this. I don't believe any load is carried by the coachroof or the cabin liner. Before I stepped my mast, I put a piece of tape on the post 50" off the bilge; I measured again after the mast was up and loaded; no change. That helps me sleep ;)
Boom Length - I've read that the boom is longer to make the cockpit more comfortable.
Chain Plates - the shroud plates are secured to the bulkheads; the bulkheads are secured to the hull. I don't think any of the load goes to the deck.
The boats on the hard for the winter in my yard. I checked the screws securing the mast step to the cabin top. 3 were fine, and the fourth spins! Something rotten in Denmark! namely, the supporting wood. Anybody got any idea what to do (remove rotten wood and replace how?)
look up fiberglass repair articles: usually involves cutting open the fiberglass skin, digging out the rotten bits, resin in some new core material and put the skin back.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by CarbonSink62</i> <br />Compression Post - On my Fin Keel/Trad Interior I can see a 4x4 in the bilge directly under the mast compression post; the weight of the mast and the rigging loads are carried directly to the keel. I would be shocked (shocked, I say) if every boat did not have this. I don't believe any load is carried by the coachroof or the cabin liner. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
How would Catalina carry the load to the keel on a swing keeler?
On my fin keeled C25, the glassed-in post inside the dinette bench seat appears to be acting simply to stiffen the cabin liner as I have a finger gap at the top of this reinforcement and the bottom tapers off to nearly nothing.
The core inside the deck at the mast step location is most likely 5/8" marine plywood. I plan on cutting mine out and filling it with solid glass. The compression post should sit on the dinnette seat. The post under the seat should be glassed in tight at the top and the bottom. If it isn't you should glass it in tight. I would remove the mast to ensure the deck is in the relaxed position before glassing in the post. <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Are my chainplates bedded in compromised laminate? My port bulkhead shows water damage streaks (port side upper shroud). How are the chainplates attached to them (yes, I see the bolts, but is there reinforcement?). Will tapping the deck by the eyelets indicate anything. I don't see water or wetness coming thru in the cabin. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> The upper chainplates are simply bolted to the bulkhead. Tapping the deck by the eyelets (eyelets are for the lower shrouds) will tell you if the deck is rotted by them. More than likely they will be wet but not rotted. My deck was absolutely soaked but not rotted.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.