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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Exit block sheaves

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putzmeister
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100 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/10/2013 : 11:22:59

My original exit block sheaves (on the mast) have succumb to age. Last time I looked CD sold the same rather cheap version that came with the boat.

Has anyone upgraded these sheaves to, say, aluminum with a bronze bushing or ball bearing?

Yeah, I know, it's not a high load application - I just like putting best products on the boat.

Thanks!

1989 C25
Hull #5822

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 01/10/2013 : 15:01:56

CD'S exit blocks are now aluminum and SS. I replaced mine with these 2yrs ago. They seem to work fine.

Used for internal halyards on the Catalina 22, Capri 22 and Catalina 25. Our replacement blocks are fabricated with aluminum sheaves in place of the original plastic sheaves.

These are perfectly sized for use with 1/4" line. Catalina Yachts uses them for 5/16" line also. When used with 5/16" the line does touch the smooth frame on either side a bit. Not enough to cause a problem, but still it does touch. The advantage is, the blocks only require a narrow slot in the mast, much smaller than a Harken exit block for example.

Dimensions:
Mounting hole size: •Height: 2-1/8"
•Width: 7/16"

Fastener hole spacing center to center:
•Top to bottom: 1-3/4"
•Side to side: 1"

Note: In the photo above, the block is oriented as required for use at the base of the mast of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25. The main and jib halyards exit below the sheave. When installed as the spinnaker or jib halyard block at the top of the mast on a Capri-22, it is installed with the sheave near the bottom of the block with the line exiting above the sheave.

Edited by - islander on 01/10/2013 15:05:59

John Russell
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Response Posted - 01/10/2013 : 15:03:03

What's wrong with the original equipment version? The ones you're replacing lasted 23 years.

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OLarryR
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Response Posted - 01/10/2013 : 21:32:48

Similar to Scott, I also replaced my exit block sheaves with the aluminum/ss ones that CD sells. My oriignal sheaves were worn away with practically no sides to the blocks - The plastic had cracked away. I just bought what CD was selling as the replacement that would fit with basically same hole pattern. But I had bought them about 2 years ago and found that I could not unscrew the old sheaves. I tried heating them up a bit and that did not help at all. I was afraid I would strip the screw heads, so I just put this replacement project on the backburner.

About a month ago, I had my standing rigging changed out by Atlantic riggers out of Annapolis, MD. When the standing rigging replacement was completed, the rigger had no problem replacing my exit block sheaves. He had an impact hammer power drill and that did the trick. The new sheaves had holes drilled same as the original equipment and he was able to use the original screws as well.

Edited by - OLarryR on 01/10/2013 21:34:57

pastmember
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Response Posted - 01/11/2013 : 11:08:26

I replaced mine with the CD product and was very happy... I am very picky about my hardware.

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putzmeister
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Response Posted - 01/11/2013 : 11:34:27

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 What's wrong with the original equipment version? The ones you're replacing lasted 23 years.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">LOL, yeah except they've been cracked from age and/or UV exposure since we bought the boat

going on 5 years ago. I don't think they even spin anymore . . . the halyard just rubs against the sheave!

I'm aiming for a new 5/16" main halyard - for comfort on the hands. Though maybe I should consider the 1/4" since I am installing rope clutches this year - hmmmmm

Good to know CD now sells a metal version (my oversiight) - thanks guys!

Edited by - putzmeister on 01/11/2013 11:41:05

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 01/11/2013 : 13:47:04

I replaced my sheaves on my 22 all the way around, with two singles aloft, and a pair of doubles at the bottom from CD. The new(er) design seems more robust, all metal, and much smoother to operate (although slightly heavier)... but like said, hey the last ones lasted 20+... hard to beat that record!

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pastmember
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Response Posted - 01/12/2013 : 17:19:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by putzmeister
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 What's wrong with the original equipment version? The ones you're replacing lasted 23 years.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I'm aiming for a new 5/16" main halyard - for comfort on the hands. Though maybe I should consider the 1/4" since I am installing rope clutches this year - hmmmmm

Good to know CD now sells a metal version (my oversiight) - thanks guys!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

A word on 1/4" halyards. Low stretch line in that size often has a very "hard" cover which clutches do not like. Make sure your clutches handle 1/4" as a "middle" size. Some clutches set 1/4" as the smallest size and those clutches have a hard time holding the hard cover and your halyard will slip. Choose your clutch wisely. I later replaced my 1/4" line with easier handling and as low a stretch 5/16 line.

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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957 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2013 : 11:11:35

I also went with CD's aluminum exit blocks. But, go with the double sheaves. You may want to add another line.

I reused 2 screws on the forward side. Then cut a notch towards the aft for the larger block and drilled 2 new holes.

Edited by - NautiC25 on 01/14/2013 11:12:01

putzmeister
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Response Posted - 01/14/2013 : 18:53:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pastmember
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by putzmeister
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by John Russell
 What's wrong with the original equipment version? The ones you're replacing lasted 23 years.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I'm aiming for a new 5/16" main halyard - for comfort on the hands. Though maybe I should consider the 1/4" since I am installing rope clutches this year - hmmmmm

Good to know CD now sells a metal version (my oversiight) - thanks guys!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

A word on 1/4" halyards. Low stretch line in that size often has a very "hard" cover which clutches do not like. Make sure your clutches handle 1/4" as a "middle" size. Some clutches set 1/4" as the smallest size and those clutches have a hard time holding the hard cover and your halyard will slip. Choose your clutch wisely. I later replaced my 1/4" line with easier handling and as low a stretch 5/16 line.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Thank you very much Frank. Santa brought a pair of Lewmar D1 doubles and the smallest line size is 1/4". I never thought about the hardness of the rope cover. 5/16" looks to be the better choice. Now I'm hoping the 1/4" line I spliced onto the fiddle blocks for the outhaul won't slip!

Another fine example of what makes this site so valuable!

Edited by - putzmeister on 01/14/2013 19:10:25

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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1032 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2013 : 04:45:14

Oh, and using the pop rivet tool they sell at catdirect (or you get at your local hardware store) and some nice stainless pop rivets, is a little easier than using screws for these sheaves.

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