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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 Sealing safety rail stanchions
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mga
1st Mate

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USA
38 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/25/2013 :  16:06:51  Show Profile
I recently had to repair some deck rot in my '89 Catalina, due to leakage around the water fill deck fittings. I am now going over the entire boat to seal every hole through any wood core. Anyone have any tricks to get at the life line stanchion bolt nuts? The ones near the cabin windows are tough to get at due to the cabin liner, and usually the best way to seal a bolt is to coat it well and install and tighten the nut without turning the bolt/screw, to avoid disturbing the sealant around the bolt. Not sure how to get at the nuts and swing a wrench in such a tight place, let alone even get the nuts started with fingers.

Mike Aimone
Belleville, MI
C25 #5856 SR/WK
"Lean Machine"

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2013 :  16:18:25  Show Profile
We replaced a stanchion on our 1989 C25. Pretty sure we used an open end wrench on the nuts and the screw head was a Phillips. Required 2 people (one inside, one outside.) Was a very easy operation.

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panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2013 :  19:14:35  Show Profile
I would guess your best bet is a socket, an universal joint, and a extension.

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awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 02/25/2013 :  19:16:26  Show Profile
I think you'll need help from another person.

The good news is that with most of the sailing fleet being 30 years old that it isn't hard to find another sailboat owner who needs to do the same job. You just need to offer to help them with their boat if they'll help you with your boat.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2013 :  07:41:48  Show Profile
A small pair of vice grips.

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2013 :  06:24:04  Show Profile
Deep sockets

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2013 :  10:50:00  Show Profile
Given: I'm 6'3". I did mine by myself. I opened the poptop and reached thru the opening. I might suggest using butyl tape around the screws after countersinking the holes. You still need something for the baseplate-boatlife, etc. If you google butyl and boat caulking, there is a great article including pictures that makes their argument. I called Sabre and they told me they use it on the screws for all deck mounted items. Good Luck.

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triley
Captain

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USA
251 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2013 :  20:17:22  Show Profile
How long will butyl tape work? These old boats ARE old and we are trying to keep them going for several more years- ah, 10 to 20 maybe?

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2013 :  08:23:27  Show Profile
Little trick getting nuts threaded in tight places. Put a little sealant on your finger tip and set the nut on that. It's just enough to keep it on your finger tip till you get it started.

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ed_spengeman
1st Mate

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USA
98 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2013 :  09:03:34  Show Profile
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/63554-bedding-deck-hardware-butyl-tape.html

This is one of the articles on butyl. It STAYS flexible. I'm thinking if you use something like 4200, if a stress is put on a stantion, the seal will be broken. After doing some research, I think it is best for the countersunk screws. I'd use Boatlife for the surface. Different strokes...

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cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2013 :  15:13:33  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mga</i>
Anyone have any tricks to get at the life line stanchion bolt nuts? The ones near the cabin windows are tough to get at due to the cabin liner, and usually the best way to seal a bolt is to coat it well and install and tighten the nut without turning the bolt/screw, to avoid disturbing the sealant around the bolt. Not sure how to get at the nuts and swing a wrench in such a tight place, let alone even get the nuts started with fingers.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sears used to sell thinwall 1/4" drive sockets. I suspect the nuts are 7/16"? You might have to have a short 1/4" drive extention, and a 1/4" male to 3/8" female adaptor if you do not have a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Chuck


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