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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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I recently had to repair some deck rot in my '89 Catalina, due to leakage around the water fill deck fittings. I am now going over the entire boat to seal every hole through any wood core. Anyone have any tricks to get at the life line stanchion bolt nuts? The ones near the cabin windows are tough to get at due to the cabin liner, and usually the best way to seal a bolt is to coat it well and install and tighten the nut without turning the bolt/screw, to avoid disturbing the sealant around the bolt. Not sure how to get at the nuts and swing a wrench in such a tight place, let alone even get the nuts started with fingers.
Mike Aimone Belleville, MI C25 #5856 SR/WK "Lean Machine"
We replaced a stanchion on our 1989 C25. Pretty sure we used an open end wrench on the nuts and the screw head was a Phillips. Required 2 people (one inside, one outside.) Was a very easy operation.
The good news is that with most of the sailing fleet being 30 years old that it isn't hard to find another sailboat owner who needs to do the same job. You just need to offer to help them with their boat if they'll help you with your boat.
Given: I'm 6'3". I did mine by myself. I opened the poptop and reached thru the opening. I might suggest using butyl tape around the screws after countersinking the holes. You still need something for the baseplate-boatlife, etc. If you google butyl and boat caulking, there is a great article including pictures that makes their argument. I called Sabre and they told me they use it on the screws for all deck mounted items. Good Luck.
Little trick getting nuts threaded in tight places. Put a little sealant on your finger tip and set the nut on that. It's just enough to keep it on your finger tip till you get it started.
This is one of the articles on butyl. It STAYS flexible. I'm thinking if you use something like 4200, if a stress is put on a stantion, the seal will be broken. After doing some research, I think it is best for the countersunk screws. I'd use Boatlife for the surface. Different strokes...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mga</i> Anyone have any tricks to get at the life line stanchion bolt nuts? The ones near the cabin windows are tough to get at due to the cabin liner, and usually the best way to seal a bolt is to coat it well and install and tighten the nut without turning the bolt/screw, to avoid disturbing the sealant around the bolt. Not sure how to get at the nuts and swing a wrench in such a tight place, let alone even get the nuts started with fingers. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Sears used to sell thinwall 1/4" drive sockets. I suspect the nuts are 7/16"? You might have to have a short 1/4" drive extention, and a 1/4" male to 3/8" female adaptor if you do not have a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.