Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am getting ready to replace my lifelines, mostly because the plastic coating on them looks like crap....
I may just go over to JSI in St Pete to have them make some new coated wire lines, but wondered about the AmSteel.
My question is, did you purchase all new fittings? I currently have gate hooks mounted at the forward end of the cockpit, at the last stanchion (as can be seen in my sig photo, top left). For me to replicate this, with AmSteel, it looks like I'll need all new fittings with loops. After searching the WM catalog for the parts, it seems pretty pricey.????
Also, WM doesn't list the AmSteel in white. What color??
Davy J
2005 Gemini 105Mc PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK Tampa Bay
I used the grey which was in stock at my very crappy WM store. Used about 30' each side iirc.
Also bought 2 snap shackles on ebay from that really cheap stainless marine seller. I think they were only $5-10 each.
I made brummel splices on the ends and cowhitched them to the lower pulpit for that connection. Then made a stopper knot to keep it taught at the gate. Then bowlines on the snap shackles to close the gates.
Check my thread for pics. I can take more tomorrow night if you want them.
I also used grey. You can get white, but it is stronger dyneema and about twice the price. For the same price as grey you can get it in fun colors (blue, red, green, orange).
For a C-25 you need two pelican hooks (LS-3170 or LS-3100) at a minimum. On my Pearson I put the gates at the widest part of the boat (just in front of the cockpit) instead of at the cockpit, so I also needed to buy 2 LS-3300's. On a C-25 with the gate at the cockpit that won't be necessary.
I think it's worth getting the right pelican hooks. They have turnbuckles that allow you to easily tension them (for coarse tension you adjust the lashings). They are also very nice to use.
This is a good project and a great introduction to splicing.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I bought new Johnson hardware that is designed for life lines.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Where did you purchase these from? I searched WM, Defender and Mauri Pro Sailing, but could not find these particular fittings.
ETA: It looks like I could use my current gates if I could get 4) 20-62, 2) LS-3600 and 2) LS-3300. But again I could not find them at any of the above spots.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">These are the Pelican Hooks you need:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> I can use the pelican hooks I already have, if I can find a fitting that will screw into it, with a loop.
I paid $60 for the Amsteel 1/4", and $20 for 2 snap shackles. It will only cost $60 in Amsteel every 5 years from then on. It doesn't have to be that complicated. I prefered to use as little hardware as possible.
I was referring to the cost of the article (free). I'm not sure why you thought there should be a direct cost comparison between a 45' boat with double life lines and our 25's.
Snap shackles don't have the integrated turnbuckles, don't tension as they are secured, and high quality ones are just as expensive. If you are on a tight budget they will work, but they aren't equivalent.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.