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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Garelick Motor Mount - twisted???

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/13/2013 : 08:57:33

I put the double-thick side plates on my motor mount last night in order to fix a problem I had the past couple seasons that featured the pin in the mount coming out of the slot in the motor mount, and having things hanging a little precariously.

My hope was that the stiffer plates would overcome the movement that was causing the pins to bind and slide erratically.

With the new plates in though, the mount binds worse, and barely moves.

I am starting to wonder if the mount itself was twisted slightly due to whatever (possibly from the worn slides in the old plates, or from a hit in the marina or something) Does anyone have tips for checking alignment or movement of the standard Garelick motor mount, and for a fix that is more elegant than beating on the mount with a hammer?

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
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Edited by - Prospector on 03/13/2013 10:28:08

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2013 : 09:38:40

My only suggestion would be to get a straight edge and tape measure and check if everything is straight and paraellel.

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2013 : 10:36:39

bang with a ball-peen hammer instead?

measure the diagonals to check for square as well.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2013 : 11:22:46

Duh - of course - diagonals. Thanks for bringing me back to what I should have thought of in the first place. Sometimes a welcome nudge is all it takes.

I really don't want to have to take the mount off and replace/reinstall.

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 03/13/2013 : 15:41:30

Aside from something being bent, My mount was difficult to move so I slid the hinge bolts out inserting a Phillips screw driver in the tube as the bolt was slowly moved out. Leave the bolt in the tube 1/2" to keep the mount together. These are like mouse traps. I cleaned and greased the bolts and tubes and slid the bolts back into the tubes. This made a world of difference in its operation. Like I said, They are like a mouse trap so be carful if you do this.

Edited by - islander on 03/13/2013 15:44:23

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 05:51:03

Make sure the pivot bolts aren't too tight. Spray the moving parts with a dry silicone lubricant.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 07:15:53

One other nagging doubt - did I install the plates backwards or upside down.

Do the detents on your sliders face the boat (forward) or the engine (backwards). The 'double detent' should be at the bottom, no reason for 2 'up' positions. Does your handle touch the transom in the raised position, or point skywards? Anyone have a photo of a system that is actually working well, with the replacement plates from CD?

These are the ones I am talking about: http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1175

Edited by - Prospector on 03/14/2013 07:20:32

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 08:02:23

Looks to me like you're talking about a Garhauer mount--not Garelick. Is it tubular steel or cast aluminum?

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/14/2013 08:03:43

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 08:50:04

Dave's right. It appears we are talking about a Garhauer mount.

My boat is a little deceiving in that the PO put a Garelick motor mount pad on the Garhauer mount. The original wood pad probably needed replacing.

Edited by - dlucier on 03/14/2013 09:08:08

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 10:07:56

Thanks guys - I think I have the same combo as you Don - hence the confusion. I was wondering why none of my google searches brought up the right mount.

If the 2 detents go up, I may have the side plates on upside-down. I'll try swapping them (again) once things warm up a little.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 11:54:36

The two detents go up so they give you two "down" levels. Don's is in the lower position in the photo.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 03/14/2013 : 13:34:23

Oh. My. God.

Thank you guys so much!

I have the same motor mount that is bending the plates the same way and I could not find the unit online to buy parts.

I'll be buying those new plates very soon!

Ken

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 03/15/2013 : 12:37:25

The Good news - I have the motor mount on right-side up, and Carbon sink found out what he needs for a motor mount.

The bad news - I have the motor mount on the right way, and Carbon sink will likely have his fixed before mine works.

Attacking this with grease and tools over the weekend.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 : 14:32:30

I pulled the trigger last weekend and bought a used Honda 9.9 for Zen Again. This thing weighs 117 pounds so I have to beef up the mount even more.

The mount itself is easy; new adjuster arms and a new SS engine pad backing plate. I've emailed CatDir to see if I can buy more springs; has anyone done that?

The transom is the real work. I plan a 12"x12" backing plate outside made of 3/4" StarBoard and another 18"x18" plate inside made of 3/4" marine ply.

Is that enough? Too much?

Ken

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 : 16:17:12

As far as adding more springs, Nope, Can't be done unless you know some one that can weld stainless.I don't think CD even sells the springs. I would say that one backing plate is enough, I have the same engine and added two aluminum angle iron brackets vertically on the inside only. A gorilla could hang on the motor mount now. Some have put a plate on the outside but that would be your choice.

Edited by - islander on 03/28/2013 16:31:32

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2013 : 20:36:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by CarbonSink62
 ...I plan a 12"x12" backing plate outside made of 3/4" StarBoard and another 18"x18" plate inside made of 3/4" marine ply.

Is that enough? Too much?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You might be overdoing it inside. The outside plate primarily supports the bottom of the bracket, and the inside supports the top. The liner in my transom had a slight concave curve inside, so a very stiff backer would probably have put point pressure at the edges and corners on both sides. 3/8" plywood should be more than enough to spread the load without being too stiff--I think that's about what I used. Round the corners. I used half-inch Starboard on the outside (plenty strong), and extended it somewhat below the bottom of the bracket.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2013 : 05:54:44

Thanks, guys.

The DPO might have glued the motor mount to the transom, so interior bracing may be all I have.

The 1/2" StarBoard is nearly half the price (110 vs. 60); so I'll go that way, if I go at all.

I saw an article on this site about adding extra springs. I'll look into that.

I splash in five weeks!

Taking off the cover this afternoon!

Ken

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 03/31/2013 : 10:10:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">The DPO might have glued the motor mount to the transom<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
??????? Really? Please don't say 5200. It should have some bedding/caulking around the bolts, That would be normal.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2013 : 07:37:52

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
Really? Please don't say 5200.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I spoke too soon; it is not glued in place. Looks like a really stiff sealant, but it does give a little under my thumbnail.

I'm looking a buying whole new mount and was reading the reviews on the $400 Garelick top-o-the-line model. One of the reviewers glued his in place with 5200 and then attached his engine and finds that the mount won't latch all the way up because the engine tiller hits the transom. Even if we accept using 5200 as a lifestyle choice (some of us are born that way, I guess) who glues something like that in place and then checks if it works? SMH

If I were to go with a new mount; what do you guys suggest, the Catalina Direct or Garelick?

CatDir Z2275 $328 + shipping + oversize charge
Garelick 303618 $380 + shipping (@ Defender)

Ken

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2013 : 08:32:43

Catalina Direct let's you size your mount to the weight of the engine. Not sure if Garlick does the same. The CD mount is well made and I did not have interference issues with either my Honda 8.8 or Toshiba 9.8 outboard.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2013 : 14:23:43

Yeah. The CD mount is pretty sturdy. I might go with them just because I know I won't be disappointed.

I'll have to check if replacement would include drilling new holes (and filling old ones). This project is already out of control.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2013 : 11:01:18

I ordered the 4 spring motor mount from CD today. I only want to do this once.

With that in mind, what is the proper location for the motor mount? I know it goes on the starboard transom, but are there exact measurements available?

My existing mount looks a little too far outboard to me. I wouldn't drill new holes to move it an inch, but if it is too far off I might relocate it.

Ken

Edited by - on

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2013 : 11:59:30

If its the Garhauer mount then it was put on by Catalina. You won't have to drill any new holes because the mount base is the same on all of them. As far as being outboard you have to remember that the motor and rudder can't hit each other. Wouldn't want to chew up the rudder with the prop.

Edited by - on

CarbonSink62
Navigator

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USA
208 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2013 : 12:47:24

Thanks, Scott.

My first Capri 18 was set up so that the rudder could hit the prop.

Not that it ever did.

I'll trust the professionals!

Only 4 work weekends left!

Ken

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2013 : 13:18:11

CD's should fit the existing holes precisely. (Same basic model from Garhauer.) I'd stick with that. The transom is narrow, so you're not appreciably off-center for a 25' boat with a keel. And you want clearance for the rudder.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3467 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2013 : 14:56:46

Probably not the issue you guys are dealing with but interesting enough, I developed an issue the last few weeks with my Garhauer 4 spring bracket that holds a Honda 9.9hp. The bracket has worked fine for the past 7 years but a few weeks ago, it has developed binding and only one side plate can with some effort lock allowing the outboard to be placed in the lowest bracket position. But it is not secure with only one side in the locked position and the other not. In fact, when going into reverse, the bracket then comes out of the semi-locked position and rides up a bit. Locking the bracket into the second position is okay to just get out of the marina and back but is not great since if there are waves, then the outboard will not be able to be used continually because it may come above the vents...well, maybe.

I have been fooling around with the bracket and today was going to be my last ditch effort to fix it, otherwise, I was going to order a new bracket. Well...good news ! I fixed it ! It turns out that the two plates that connect to the handle and also serve as the guides and locking mechanism for holding the bracket in the lower and upper positions, apparently was slightly twisted. It was not really that noticeable but I took a crow bar with me today and twisted it the plate that was giving me trouble to aft with the other brcket twisted forward. Twist may not be the best term to use. I basically put the crow bar between the plates and pulled on it which pushes one plate aft and one forward. Now works fine and I can lock in the lower position with no problem.

I suspect that perhaps when I am docking, the outboard sometimes touches the dock and after many repetitous dockings, maybe the bracket became slightly distorted. It is not like I crash into the dock. I land gently almost all the time. But even so, a little force exerted on the outboard/bracket may have created the issue.

Anyway, I am off tomorrow and it is going to be well into the 70s - I'm sailin !!

Edited by - OLarryR on 04/07/2013 14:59:45

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