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I just purchased a dual axle trailer a few weeks ago and I'm in the process of adding bunks (swing keel). I've used measurements from other posts on here and from the cradle drawings from Catalina.
Here's my dilemma: I'm making the bunks adjustable in height so that I can get a well balanced fit on the trailer. My boat is at a marina and will be launched early May and I'll sail her home (2 days in the Long Island Sound) after that.
How should I make sure the bunks are set properly before I use the trailer for the first time?
My thought is that the best-case scenario would be to finish the trailer now and ask the marina if they'll "dry fit" the boat to the trailer for a few minutes when they launch it. Essentially, coordinate me being at the marina with the trailer when they lift the boat and see if they'll do a quick lowering onto my trailer before putting the boat in the water. Is this something that most marinas will let me do?
If this option isn't viable, then I'm going to pray that when I haul her in the fall that everything fits correctly. Any other ideas?
Billy H. South Kingstown, RI FMR Navy SWO(N) Owner 1978 C25 SK #776 "Hubbard Hull" PO 1981 C22 SK #10057 "Spring Fever"
I'm only "thinking out loud," because I've never had to do what you're asking with my C25. You could begin by adjusting the bunks as close as possible by following the info obtained here and eyeballing it. Have the marina put it on the trailer, and then move it someplace out of the way in the parking lot. On my trailer, the bar that carried the weight of the keel could be lowered and removed while the boat was sitting on the trailer. With that bar out of the way, you could put one or two heavy duty hydraulic jacks under the keel, and raise the boat enough to adjust the bunks. While making the adjustments, you'd need to prop up the boat enough to keep it balanced. Perhaps you could do that by using jackstands, or by propping it with a temporary wood "cradle". I did something similar with my C22. Obviously, you need to think it through very carefully, and probably bring 2-3 strong friends to help.
Here's a possible alternative. At my marina, when you want to launch your boat, they are willing to schedule it so that they pick up the boat with the travelift just before quitting time. They will leave it hanging there in the straps until the next morning. That gives the owner some time that evening to paint the bottom of the keel and the spots under the jackstands or bunks. My marina doesn't charge extra for doing so, because it doesn't take extra time or effort on their part. Maybe your marina will leave it hanging low over your trailer, overnight, for no extra charge or only a small charge. That would give you time to adjust the bunks.
A test fit is best if your marina will do that but the marina is the only place to ask that question. If not, you can always set the bunks an inch or two high for the first lift onto the trailer. The important thing is that the hull is supported high enough by the bunks for the keel to be lowered to the trailer. I would not consider lifting the boat with jacks under the keel. The weight of the hull would be concentrated on a small portion of the trunk and the pivot assembly. It would also be possible to wedge the lifting attachment in the throughull.
Billy - I did exactly what you are doing 5 years ago. Bought a Cat 25 100 miles away assuming I'd be able to find a reasonable used trailer fairly easily. So when I had to have someone build one, no one was aware of the special needs for the swing keel and I used the same resources you have to design a bunk trailer. I installed the 2X6's myself (using some big clamps to get them bowed and bolted right) and covered them with carpet. I set them about a foot higher than the Catalina bunk specs to make sure there was room enough the first try. Around here most boat yards will begrudge every minute of their time that you will take up because they always have underestimated - especially a first-time-on-the-trailer job - and will hit you with an upcharge in the end as well. They will let you do whatever but hoist time is well over $100/hr. After I got it home I used a floor jack and electric impact wrench and lowered each support several inches at a time (with the boat on the trailer) and then cutoff the excess bottom end of the bunk supports for better ground clearance. Set it as low as possible on the trailer for easier launching but allow 3-4" to drop the keel on a support for less keel-attachment stress while traveling. Good luck.
Tim, did you have them put the boat on the trailer for the end of the season or did you actually retrieve the boat from the ramp with the bunks still elevated?
It would be a huge help if you could give me a few details about the bunk supports you ended up using. I'm mostly interested in how you connected the bunk supports to the trailer. I've seen different styles (U-bolt, welded, tube-in-tube, etc.). If you could send me some pics or specifics via e-mail I would greatly appreciate it! hubbardbilly at gmail.com
Billy - The bunk supports are made of 1 1/2X3" channel iron held against a trailer cross-member with a u-bolt above and below. They angle inward about half of 45 degrees. The tops are rounded off (with a cutting torch) and an angle bracket mounted against the top with a single bolt so it can pivot to match the angle of the 2X6 bunk they will be bolted to. The bunks will be almost flat at the back of the trailer and much more vertical at the front to match the angle of the hull. I'll try to send some pics this weekend (if you haven't had to change your email address by then). I knew I wouldn't be able to float the boat on the trailer with the bunks so high so I hired a crane with slings to lift and set it on the first time. If you have the time and are willing to pay for the extra lift time, the opposite of what I did would be easier. In other words, start with the bunks low, have them hold the boat exactly at the height you want and loosen and use a jack under each support to snug the bunks against the hull - tighten everything and adjustment's all done. Hope this helps.
Great idea Tim. I'd love to see pics of the U-Bolt assemblies. Yeah, I probably shouldn't have put my e-mail address on here. Just realized I'm going to get spammed most likely.
The u-bolts wrap around the supports, one above the cross-member and one below, and then pass through a 5" square 3/8 steel plate and then bolted. Dark day here today, I'll do the best I can on the pics.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hubbardbilly</i> <br />Tim, I have seen those on other trailers. Did you buy them online? If so can you send me a link? thanks! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hubbardbilly</i>... <br />Yeah, I probably shouldn't have put my e-mail address on here... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Billy: You can edit your e-mail address (or anything else in your posts) using the button in the post header. Just using "at" and "dot" would help, but people can also reach you through your profile, which hides your address.
Billy - The square steel backing plates were provided by the guy who built the trailer. As Steve suggests, they're probably available from a marine supply or trailer parts supplier. They could also be fairly easily made.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.