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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Spring cleaning

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binky
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USA
115 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/07/2013 : 16:23:52

It's that time of year; warm weather, our boats, spring cleaning and the brightwork. Today I started sanding the wood work and what ever finish was put on... it was flaking bad. It appears to be a dark, high gloss material, probably the same as the interior. Interior still looks good, exterior wood was ugly. Now I have bare wood. Looking at all the different products, again I get confused on all of em. Think I like the lighter color of the sanded wood...satin finish. Any suggestions/recommendations on a good UV wood treatment?

Note the darkness of unsanded wood above the hatchway.

Before:

Before
After:

It's not perfect, but it still looks better. Any suggestions on a good wood sealant with UV protection?

"Mast Confusion"
1983 SK, #3525
Ken
Hampton Roads, Va

Edited by - binky on 04/07/2013 16:26:50

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2013 : 17:38:45

I used to use Cetol, then I tried Semco and went back to Cetol.

Based on your pix, I think you should use teak cleaner before you re-coat. Teak cleaner is pretty strong - I would avoid getting it on your aluminum portlite frames, it may damage/discolor the anodized coating.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 04/07/2013 : 18:23:21

I like Cetol as well. Some folks don't like the color, but they have different shades now, so you have some good choices.

Edited by - on

binky
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115 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2013 : 19:25:01

I was lookng at the Cetol stuff...in satin finish.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 04/07/2013 : 19:29:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 I like Cetol as well. Some folks don't like the color, but they have different shades now, so you have some good choices.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Aside from your tiller handle, what other exterior wood do you use it on?

Edited by - on

binky
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Response Posted - 04/08/2013 : 16:33:22

Cetol Marine Light... Very easy to apply, couple hours between coats. I had hoped for a lighter color but this will do. Let's see how it looks in a year...I have the afternoon soon beating down on it.

Crib boards are done, weatherboard needs sanding next. I think it looks better.

How do I get the coaming trim off? Thin scrapper to remove sealant between trim and fiberglass or is there a screw holding it somewhere?

Edited by - on

delliottg
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Response Posted - 04/08/2013 : 17:16:42

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 I like Cetol as well. Some folks don't like the color, but they have different shades now, so you have some good choices.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Aside from your tiller handle, what other exterior wood do you use it on?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Excellent point.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 04/08/2013 : 17:21:12

I removed my coaming "ovals" simply by prying them gently with a spackle knife - a 2.5" wide paint scraper. It was beefy enough to allow me to pry without bending, and wide enough to avoid "pressure points". I started on top, then walked the spackle knife around a few times until it was free. Mine was set in place with polysulfide (lifecaulk), which retains its elasticity over time.

While I use Cetol everywhere else, on the tiller I do not use Cetol. I handle the tiller for extended periods while sailing and am concerned that the moisture and oils from my hands would soften the finish, and make it sticky, especially during hot humid periods.

It was originally coated with polyuethane when I got it. Last year I sanded it down and painted on 6 coats of marine varnish. It looked beautiful and handled well.

But it did not wear well - at all. Cracked and chipped.

Practical Sailor did an evaluation a few years ago on the durability and quality of various finishes. They concluded that after Cetol, the most long-lasting finish was polyuethane. So I sanded the tiller again, and recoated with 5 layers of rub-on marine poly. We'll see how it holds up. Biggest problem is cracking and peeling.

Edited by - Voyager on 04/08/2013 17:32:51

binky
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Response Posted - 04/08/2013 : 17:38:55

Thanks Voyager....my new high dollar scrapper (2.49) will get some more use.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
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Response Posted - 04/08/2013 : 19:28:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by TakeFive
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by delliottg
 I like Cetol as well. Some folks don't like the color, but they have different shades now, so you have some good choices.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Aside from your tiller handle, what other exterior wood do you use it on?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Excellent point.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Sorry, wasn't meaning to put you down. I just realized that we both have "Tupperware boats," so it just kind of came out.

Edited by - on

NautiC25
Admiral

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USA
957 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 09:56:03

I used Cetol everwhere, even on my tiller handle and DO NOT care for it there. The tiller needs something else for the "feel".

Edited by - on

glen
Captain

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Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 10:11:47

Use Poly for tiller & hatch boards. Everything else is Sikkens original (honey color)

Edited by - on

binky
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115 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 19:49:43

Voyager thanks....coaming trim came off without issue.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 19:53:31

Glen
Do you stain the hatch boards to match the Cetol? You could probably use Teak Oil or Deks Oljies (or even a "Minwax" interior stain) to match the honey color of Cetol. I don't stain the tiller handle since I like the bright ash color (helps me see it in low light and peripheral vision while sailing). It would be darker and less conspicuous if stained to look like Cetol.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 04/09/2013 : 20:02:53

Ken
The teak sections I had trouble removing were the hatch-board slides either side of the companionway and the threshhold step. I got the screws out, but the polysulfide was so sticky, I had a hard time pulling them off without damage.
I reconstructed the threshold since I cracked the original. I was lucky to have a few teak boards a handyman friend rescued from a deck demolition he did. Between my tablesaw, a router and my 110VAC power drill, I was able to fashion an exact duplicate based on the original.

Edited by - on

glen
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Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 09:14:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 Glen
Do you stain the hatch boards to match the Cetol? You could probably use Teak Oil or Deks Oljies (or even a "Minwax" interior stain) to match the honey color of Cetol. I don't stain the tiller handle since I like the bright ash color (helps me see it in low light and peripheral vision while sailing). It would be darker and less conspicuous if stained to look like Cetol.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No I have not stained the tiller or hatch boards. The previous owner installed a tiller made of different laminates. Not sure what but it may be primarily ash with some darker wood highlights, very pretty. A different interior treatment would be nice. Using the Cetol inside requires a lot of ventilation

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 10:10:10

As much trouble as it is to keep the tiller looking good ( as well as feeling good ) I just take it off every time. It's lookin good after 7 years of use without any maintenance.

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pfduffy
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Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 10:22:36

Time for this thread to take a turn! The PO of my boat did what redeye suggests and removed the tiller from the boat when not sailing. I decided that having the rudder flop over was causing wear on the gudgeons and decided to leave the tiller on and secure it - centered - with the tiller tamer. I'm curious what others do.

Edited by - on

piseas
Former Treasurer

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2017 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 13:13:38

Pat, I will probably get some grief but I hook it behind my backstay. I alternate after each use.
Steve

Edited by - on

islander
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4031 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 16:06:02

I just take it off every time.
You guys ever hear of a tiller cover?

I wrap the tamer lines around the tiller then put a tiller cover on then run a piece of line from the tiller tamer cleat, Around the tiller and cover just forward of the tamer, 3-4 wraps and then back to the other tiller tamer cleat. You will never lose the cover because of the line wrapped around it and the tiller wont move and is protected from the sun. I finished the tiller 6yrs ago and it still looks like the day I did it.

Edited by - on

binky
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Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 16:07:56

Voyager, the hatchboard (crib-board) rails came off with out issue. The threshold was sanded and coated in place, I saw the issues in trying to remove it. The only remaining items are the slides for the top, CD calls them railwood, that is tomorrows project. Luckily the interior still looks good from when it was done about three years ago...I doubt I will ever have to mess with it.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 04/10/2013 : 19:09:38

Semco is good for keeping an "unvarnished" look but providing some UV protection and mousture resistance. It has a sort of milky appearance and a flat finish. Cetol is more varnish-like, with the options of satin (in various colors) and a clear gloss version that is meant to be a topcoat over the satin. The colors in Cetol are the primary UV barrier, and Practical Sailor found that the original version ("Marine") lasted significantly better in the sun than the newer "Light" or "Natural Teak" versions. I've used the Marine and Natural Teak, and prefer the look of the Marine--the Natural Teak being more of a yellow color. I was satisfied with Cetol on the crib boards and rails they fit into, but I didn't finish the inside of the slots for the boards. I didn't use it on my tiller--it seemed too soft for that.

Both Cetol and Semco are much easier to maintain than varnish or polyurethane--they can be touched up or overcoated after a light sanding or roughing up with a Scotchguard pad, whereas varnish or poly have to be completely removed if they start to crack and peel.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/10/2013 19:12:51

Voyager
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Response Posted - 04/11/2013 : 20:04:46

Ken,
The railwood rails come off by unscrewing the wood-screws from inside the cabin. Easy enough to remove, but a little tricky to replace.
1. You have to scrape off all the old bedding compound, and uniformly reapply polysulfide to the contact area and
2. You have to fill the screw holes in the cabin with polysulfide FROM THE TOP. I have one screw that drips rain on my starboard settee cushion. I've removed and recoated the screw with bedding several times, but for some reason, water still drips in. I will have to repeat the bedding process one of these days.

Today, when I was out at Passsage, where I sanded most of the trim in-place and reapplied Cetol. I paid particular attention to locations where the finish was chipped or gouged.
I placed 2.5" strips of masking tape in critical areas (which caught the drips). I'll recoat 2 more times and it should look fine.

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binky
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Response Posted - 04/11/2013 : 20:53:57

Thanks for the info Voyager. In reference to your water drip...I encountered the same today with the handrails. While removing for sanding and reinstalling, I had one screw that dripped a couple drops of water. I am hoping that this is due to a poor-previous bedding. We haven't had rain in the past several days. It also got me thinking that water may be infiltrating the core material from another source...not really sure. I don't feel any soft spots in the fiberglass....hopefully it is just poor bedding.

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