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Multiple cabin leaks?

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hinmo
Navigator

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USA
248 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/15/2013 : 02:58:45

With the Boat on the hard, I have noticed streaks of discolored (rain)water coming down the wall above the port side windows in the cabin. I can't figure where this water is entering the boat from the topsides. There must be a junction and/or channel between the deck/cabin top and the sides of the hull? There is wood trim running the length of the cabin hiding this junction I think. I'll post pics when I get a chance....nasty color to the water too.

Also, I am getting quite a bit of water in the bilge sitting on the hard. The anchor locker is not the culprit, so where could it be coming from? (cabin entry way is covered). Can water entering the cockpit or lockers be getting to the bilge?

New cushions this year.....gonna be an issue with the Admiral if they get discolored water on them. Thanks

"Kukla" '83 FK,SR

Edited by - hinmo on 04/15/2013 03:00:08

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 04:47:05

All water usually winds up in the bilge.

You said water entering above the windows? Lots of culprits there... anything that is dissimilar materials... such as chainplates, mast step, portlights, track slides, and hand rails.

The color, indicates anything the water picks up along the way. What should be of concern is any core rot where the leak is.

Just had an interesting conversation with our Vice Commodore... He owns an O'Day 26. He teaches at the local ASA school. So he should know better here... but he goes: My mast step is sinking. I think there is some core damage. I asked how is the compression post, he goes well the post is a couple inches behind the mast step. HEH? I said you got your work cut out for you! He had a plan, but I wasn't totally onboard with it, but its not my boat.

Edited by - on

Ella
Deckhand

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USA
10 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 13:13:43

Hinmo- I am having the same problem with my 1981 C25. Leaks are getting bad and starting to rot the wood in the kitchen drawers. Any suggestions on how to stop the leaks? Would automotive silicone do the trick?

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 13:41:54

rebed, reseal, cover when not in use are some often deployed ideas. This year I am rebedding the portlights and rebedding the stanchions. Properly bedded, it should last many years. Look up butyl tape and rebedding will bring lots of additional good information.

edit: being on the hard may also change leak locations due to point stressors on the hull versus laying on her own in the water.

Edited by - Ape-X on 04/15/2013 13:42:43

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 14:36:32

PO on my boat loves butyl tape for inland lakes. Heard it doesn't stand up so well in salt water environs.

Edited by - on

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 14:37:11

And should add the boat doesn't have any topside leaks - testament to butyl tape.

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hinmo
Navigator

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USA
248 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2013 : 16:28:23

How easy is it to re-seat, re-bed the chain plates, especially the center stays?

Edited by - hinmo on 04/16/2013 03:50:58

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 05:53:38

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by hinmo
 How easy is it to re-seat, re-bed the chain plates, especially the center stays?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">If you mean the upper shrouds, it's simple. A small frame around the chainplate can be unscrewed and lifted up. Then you can dig out as much of the old sealant as possible, re-seal, put sealant on each frame screw, and screw the frames back down. Don't tighten them after the sealant has set up.

If moisture has been present, the chainplates should be unbolted from the bulkheads, slid up through the deck, and inspected for corrosion where they pass through. CD sells replacements, or you can probably fabricate copies for a little less.

Edited by - on

cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 06:22:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Stinkpotter
If moisture has been present, the chainplates should be unbolted from the bulkheads, slid up through the deck, and inspected for corrosion where they pass through. CD sells replacements, or you can probably fabricate copies for a little less.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I totally agree!!! I periodically have a nut and bolt tightening session, and one day I found one of the thru bolts for an upper chainplate loose, so I snugged it up, and the head popped off!!! That same day ALL of the chainplate bolts and nuts were replaced!!!!

That bolt "looked" fine beforehand! Stress corrosion can sneak up on you!!!! (we found that out in the Shuttle program a number of times!!)

Chuck

Edited by - on

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 09:19:58

I'm with Chuck.. disassemble every connection and inspect... I kinda feel like you can start in the front and move clockwise and just keep going...

Of course I reward myself with a beer every time I look at a fitting and think about rebedding it...

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 10:18:27

Has anyone tried rebedding the T-track for the sheetleads? Its last on my list. Wondering how much of a bear it will be to do.

Edit to add - this week I hit just about everything on the deck, and tonight is the dreaded chainplates. Making those holes oversized and re-drilling has me a little nervous. I'm thinking I'll have to find a sacrificial something act as a chainplate while I epoxy around it.

Edited by - Prospector on 04/16/2013 10:21:38

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2013 : 18:27:42

I'm doing my sheet tracks this summer since I won't be doing much sailing.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2013 : 15:33:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 Has anyone tried rebedding the T-track for the sheetleads? Its last on my list. Wondering how much of a bear it will be to do

Every boat is probably different but when I was rebedding stanchions etc. I was going to do the tracks until I found many of the nuts on the inside to be bedded into the fiberglass joint of the deck and hull. Needless to say that job went on the " To hard to do" list. I suggest looking at all the bolts first and seeing if you can access them all before tackling that job. Boy there is a lot of screws!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Edited by - islander on 04/19/2013 15:34:24

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/19/2013 : 21:32:19

I found during annual tightening that the nuts are bedded solidly enough to loosen and remove the machine screws from above. I have also found that countersinking the holes so the bedding is compressed in a cone works even when turning the screw in the bedding. The 4-5 day cure and light adhesion of polysufide probably contributes to that. My approach will be countersinking, scraping out some core, fill the nut with wax, paint the core with liquid epoxy, back fill with MarineTex, then countersink again. I can then support the track, start all of the screws, generously fill each countersink with polysufide and tighten things down on spacers about 1/16" above the deck until it cures. Final tightening will compress the poly for a good seal. It still won't be much fun, but I should only need to do it once.

Edited by - on

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