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kc5dlo
1st Mate

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USA
71 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/16/2013 : 09:40:03

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Edited by - kc5dlo on 05/09/2013 05:56:11

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 10:09:35

I had mine make out of material called Plasteak. It is made of recycled material and looks like teak. I will see if I can find the web site.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 10:09:59

Totally refinish. This is a no brainer - unless they have been previously refinished and the teak has worn thin.

I just looked up when I did mine, and the last time I stripped them and polished was about 4 years ago. Since then its been a 10 minute job to scuff the finish and apply a new coat of Cetol.

If you really hate the wood, then there are replacements made of other materials. Personally I would avoid steel or aluminium since they will heat up in the sun, the star-board alternatives may work better for you.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5909 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 10:10:02

Having removed my grab rails before, I would avoid it unless they were so weakened that I had to replace them, or unless they were leaking. We each see things differently, but, if the teak grain is raised a bit, that wouldn't bother me. I'd sand the rails as lightly as possible with a small electric finish sander, not so much as to make them smooth, but just enough to reduce the graininess a little, and then I'd coat them with Cetol (the satin finish, not the gloss), and go sailing. Tape the decks with masking tape to protect them in case the sander gets too close to the gelcoat. If they have been neglected, then your first refinishing might take a little more time and effort, but if you give them a fresh coat of Cetol each year, you could go a long time without having to do a major refinishing job on the rails again.

Edited by - on

panhead1948
Captain

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345 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 10:18:03

The address is
Plasteak
3489 Sawmill Rd
Copley OH 44323
1 800 320-1841
Just google plasteak

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4316 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 11:25:58

Mine were done shortly before I bought my boat 5-1/2 years ago and they held up fine until about a year ago. I'm needing to refinish mine now but plan on doing it this summer while the boat is out of the water and inside an enclosed boat storage unit.

I'll probably bring it to the house on Saturday mornings and take it back on Sunday evenings. When it get's hot I'll head into the house until late afternoon.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 12:12:45

While you have the handrails off, its a good time to rebed everything - I removed mine to refinish them.

Guessing you already know this, but the process is:

1. Remove handrail
2. Drill out holes with 1/2" to 3/8" bit.
3. Bend a nail in a vise, and sharpen tip. Use nail in chuck as a flucutter to remove plywood in deck and additional 1/4" back from holes.
4. Cover top and bottom of holes with duct tape. be sure you have a really good seal.
5. Cut away tape from holes in top of deck. Tape will act to mask deck surrounding holes.
6. Mix epoxy in a yogurt container. (If you have kids, you have single-serve yogurts in the fridge)
7. Add micro-bubbles to epoxy to a thickness someplace beween cornsyrup and toothpaste.
8. Dip a chopstick in the epoxy, and let the goo drool into the holes until full.
9. Repeat epoxy to top up holes where epoxy has been absorbed into deck.
10. Wait overnight, then return to boat to remove tape and drill out holes to original size.

This process will not only give you a better chance at getting good seals on your bolts, but the epoxy will protect the plywood core in your deck.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 13:30:44

I have done both, remove and in situ and found that the Black and Decker Mouse sander was terrific for working on them on the boat. I am a teak oil guy so mine never needed "refinishing" just wait until the grain is too raised for your taste and sand and oil. I like grey teak if it is the result of well maintained teak aging naturally, because it is very uniform. I have always thought "finished" teak has a narrow window of looking good unless maintaining it is your thing, and if it is then I probably admire your Flemished lines as well.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2013 : 19:29:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pastmember
 ...unless maintaining it is your thing, and if it is then I probably admire your Flemished lines as well.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I have both! (...on a $+!nkp*+ no less!)

[url="http://www.plasteak.com/"]PlasTeak[/url] sent me samples and some price quotes--the handrails are by the inch--I vaguely recall it was around $1. (Don't count on my memory.) You can send them yours to reproduce. The sample material looks sorta plain up close, but I'm guessing from 10' away nobody will notice the difference--except they'll always look pretty good (and better than stainless steel). I've filed that away for possible action some day...

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 04/16/2013 19:43:13

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 05:02:29

Most teak regardless of weathering will clean up relatively easily to look amazing. Two of the easiest ways to destoy teak is (1)clean it with a stiff bristle brush which will remove the soft grain and (2) excessive sanding. Teak is relatively soft. If you choose to refinish, I'd suggest as others only a light sanding. The two part teak cleaners/brighteners will easily restore the original color but must be rinsed off the gelcoat relatively quickly if you attempt to refinish the trim in place. My experience (C22 + C25) is that removing, refinishing and then rebedding the trim saves a lot of time/potential leaks later on and the results look great. Cruise through photo galleries on this site of various boats for evidence. Note that after using the teak cleaner/brightener the teak will need another very light sanding. Living in TX you will need the UV block offered by Cetol finishes but maintenance requires only a light sanding and touch up every few years.

Prospector's outline is right on and really is much less effort than it appears. I would add one additional recommendation, however. You want to remove the alternating nuts and screws from inside the cabin without the heads of the through-bolts inbedded in the handrails from rotating if possible. Also note that the handrails are slightly curved once installed. It's been a while since I did his but as I recall, bedding the handrails is easiest if you over drill and epoxy fill all fastener holes (as noted by Prospector) BUT only redrill every other fastener hole (those for the through-bolts) at first. This will allow you to dry fit the handrails to preserve the original curvature. You can then redrill the alternating screw holes from inside the cabin.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 07:58:23

Thanks for the additional tips Gerry!

When I reattached my handrails, I had no trouble with the curvature, but I went one bolt at a time, and bent the rails into place between bolts.

Tonight I'll be doing th echainplates and baby stays, and then all deck hardware will have been epoxy-cored, or whatever we call this process, with the exception of the sheetlead tracks.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 08:26:36

Did you check Catalina Direct?
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display& product_ID=1955

Edited by - on

PCP777
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1225 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 08:44:01

Just a thought, when you refinish them you have the option to mount them within the cabin where they might actually have some use.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9089 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 09:15:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PCP777
 Just a thought, when you refinish them you have the option to mount them within the cabin where they might actually have some use.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Peter--you must be a lake sailor.

A little shot of WD-40 before removing the nuts helps keep the bolts from turning, both when removing and replacing the rails. When I put mine back on, the bolts held the curvature so that the screws went right in. I used the screws to tighten the rails down (after the polysulfide had set) before gently snugging down the bolts. (I suspect that was the idea.)

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 10:15:21

Another idea Peter - If you replace the bolts with threaded rod, you can mount a second set inside the cabin upside down. Now you have grab rails above and below decks.

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 04/17/2013 : 17:29:53

/pirate <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Tonight I'll be doing th echainplates and baby stays, and then all deck hardware will have been epoxy-cored...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

what??? it was only ice out here on the 7th and last week's snow only disappeared on Monday. So much yard work and projects ahead but spring fever has taken hold. (The Peepers are singing tonight for the first time.) I am envious you are already well along on your boat projects. /end pirate

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2013 : 06:25:18

Well - last night I epoxied everything in, but the epoxy didn't kick before the rain started. Looks like it'll be a re-do for the last 6 penetrations. Grrr.

The epoxy all crazed so I don't trust it, but it did hold water. Dunno how well, but each spot has a little puddle in it.

We have snow in the weekend forecast with temps rising into the 20°C's (70°F's) on Monday.

At least I can re-set the stanctions. I should start another thread on that...

Edited by - on

JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2013 : 12:22:10

I sanded and oiled my teak hand rails a few years ago, and since then kept them under a sunbrella cover. There is a cover on my teak hatchboards, too. Covering them from the sun keeps them nice for a much longer time than leaving them out in the weather.

Happy sailing!

Edited by - JohnP on 04/18/2013 12:22:35

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