Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So after doing all of the bottom work and getting her in the water. I started the motor for the first time to find out the only way the Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot would run is 1/2 throttle and full choke. Less than optimal. After talking to many sources, I find that I need a carb rebuild. Due to what I am told is the ethanol gas. Not wanting to delay the season at all, while this is being done I'm wondering if my Dinghy kicker, a 2.5 Yamaha short shaft would move the boat enough to make a few trips. Has anyone tried this? Is this real stupid, or just sorta stupid?
Ethanol may be a convenient excuse... Varnish, caused by gasoline evaporating in the jets and sometimes gumming up the carb float, is also a possible (maybe probable) explanation. That problem predates E-10 gasoline by many decades, and the newer 4-strokes with their finer jetting exacerbate it. Carb cleaners are worth a try, followed by cleaning the carb.
Hey--it's a boat. There's always somethin'. (I'm dealing with my own "somethin's" right now.)
I powered a 21 footer with a 2 HP for a few weeks. It displaced a little under 2000 pounds and had a much finer entry that a C-25 and moved along at 3 knots.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by steve25</i> <br />After talking to many sources, I find that I need a carb rebuild. Due to what I am told is the ethanol gas. Not wanting to delay the season at all, while this is being done I'm wondering if my Dinghy kicker, a 2.5 Yamaha short shaft would move the boat enough to make a few trips. Has anyone tried this? Is this real stupid, or just sorta stupid? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Hi Steve! Not Stupid at all! My 9.9 Johnson was down for several months while I rebuilt it and I used a little (and old) 4hp Johnson Deluxe on Confetti. Worked fine but going into a stiff breeze or chop was at best slow, and sometimes almost not possible, so pick your weather. Also, there is not enough thrust to count on using the motor for slowing down quickly coming into your slip (if you normally use the motor for braking)
I agree with the posts that ethanol is not the only thing that can gum up a carb! However, it is sure bad on things! I picked up a used fishing boat and the ethanol had disollved the lining in the fuel lines!! (the dealer had a section to show what happens and it was just like mine). The debris and residue from the fuel line lining had severly plugged up that engine's carbs... I was amazed that it had made it thru the small filter in the engine (you may have to replace that also if your fuel lines are deteriorating). Its a slow process however, especially if you use any ethanol treatments in your gas, so its not always as bad as it sounds.....
So consider getting the ethanol tolerant line/squeeze bulb when its replacement time, and perhaps even the lines inside the motor. And for sure use an ethanol treatment in your fuel..... You can sometimes find ethanol free gas, but it costs about $0.50/gal more where I am.
If your motor is 2 cycle, I highly recommend always running the motor dry of fuel after you are back at the dock if it is going to sit for a while. The gas slowly evaporates and the oil in the gas is left to form deposits in the fuel bowl that get into the lower jet. Just let it idle till it finally quits.
Like Stinkpotter correctly observed "Hey, its a boat, there's always somethin'!!"
When I launched last year, my Evinrude 9.9 wasn't running, so my brother and I used the 5hp 2stroke short shaft from my son's boat to get from the marina to the mooring (5-6nm sheltered river, but big ships/wake).
It did the job, but: We had to fill the water tank to lower the stbd side. We overfilled the tank (into the bilge) and left it there for more draft. If one of us went forward, the other had to stay all the way aft or it would ventilate. We were pinned against the pier by the current at first because there was so little thrust. Reverse was all but useless for stopping forward motion. Even being careful, we still ventilated a few times when big boats passed us.
I'm on a busy river with current; I would do it again to move the boat from A to B ('cause B is so nice!) but not to go sailing. On a lake, on a day with light wind, a 4-5hp would be good enough. If the lake were big enough to create chop and the wind rose from the predicted 6-10 to maybe 12-16 and that chop started up; you might find yourself in a pickle.
Excessive ventilation can destroy the water pump, that will not improve your situation.
I see that you sail out of the Middle River in Baltimore/Essex, Maryland.
I borrowed a friend's Mercury 2.5 hp outboard while my regular engine was in the shop. It would easily push the boat out of the marina into the Magothy River (about 10 miles south of your marina) but I didn't count on it getting me out of trouble in the Craighill Channel shipping lane or pushing the boat against a strong breeze.
I clamped an 18-inch piece of 2x4 horizontally to the bottom of the outboard bracket using big C-clamps and attached the little outboard to that piece of wood so that it rode at a proper depth.
A small engine like that can get a C-25 up to about 4 knots in calm conditions.
Well, you don't have strong currents on the Chesapeake Bay. If you are stuck out on the Bay and the strongest winds from the front edge of a thunderstorm are pushing you to a lee shore and towards disaster, then you just calmly drop the anchor and let it pass over for half an hour while you play cards down below.
Otherwise, in mild conditions you're fine with a small motor, in moderate winds you're having fun sailing with a small motor, and you know how to reef the main and pull in the roller furling or bend on a storm jib in high winds. It's sailing, and that's what we do!
Wow - I can relate to every part of this story. I have an almost new (2009) extra long shaft 4strk 6hp Tohatsu that has been the MOST unreliable engine I have owned. Works sometimes and dies other times. I am down to potentially buying a new carb and fuel pump as a last resort (been thru 2 mechanics, new hoses, carb rebuild, new bulb, new tank...etc)
Meanwhile, bought a $75 1994 4 hp Mariner 2-strk long shaft (not extra long) off CL. In a bakeoff in the driveway, the Mariner is the much better running machine and I will launch the boat with it this coming season. First big challenge will be backing her out a tight passageway between two wharfs with boats tied-up on each side...potentially into a prevailing 10-15 kt wind. Wish me luck!
My Honda 9.9hp 4-stroke was unreliable until I learned to always flush the salt water out of the cooling system (to keep the impeller from disintegrating each season) and run the engine dry at the same time (to avoid wet E10 gasoline and starting problems). Since I do both of those things, the outboard starts on the first pull each time!
I run the gas out of my lawn mower, too. And the Stihl 2-stroke chain saw I bought last Fall instructs the owner to run the engine until it stalls after all the gas-oil mixture is gone.
I am really happy with the Honda 9.9 these days!
Note added: Also got a new gas tank and new bulb and fuel line in 2011.
I flush my honda 9.9 every time its used. The end of the boating season I flush the motor in a plastic garbage pai;. Its filled with water and extra virgin olive oil while its running. The motor is a 2002 model with the same impeller. Its used in salt water.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.