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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So in preparing Moe for sale, I was finishing up some of the wiring from mast step to the original panel. Should be ok, I put a new fitting on the deck, ran the wires into the head area, down the bulkhead (there is a bonding wire, and VHF wire in there already covered by a teak trim piece) into the bilge. I was able to tie the wires securely to the sole blocks, behind the galley drawers and onto the dumpster. Simple right? ....riiiiiight!
while cutting away the old wires and splicing in the new, a wire parted from the toggle. I was putting very little force on the wire, holding it away from the remaining wires for shrinking the fitting. I guess one failure isn't too bad. I promptly removed the switch, opened it up, assessed the trouble and found someone to borrow solder and a soldering iron from. btw, don't bother rebuilding these: it is difficult to re-insert the tab to the proper depth for care-free operation.) I suppose after 34yrs of service the toggles can't be faulted.
While trying to fix one switch by pressing the components back together I managed to separate another lead from a different toggle. DOH!
Fortunately I found replacement toggles at the local big box improvement store. 3-4hrs later, voila! a completely rebuilt panel.
This wasn't the type of work I was hoping to complete on a boat I am trying to sell. But she does look good now. I took some pictures and after 3yrs of constant manuevering and replacement, all of her elec systems are ready to go. I have one more wire to run, the VHF. I found a pass-through deck connector from CD to install. But need to research the right kind of VHF radio co-ax. I have a lot of Coax cable at home, would this work???
s/v No Worries, O'Day 28 PO Moe'Uhane - C25 SR/FK #1746
Has anyone else checked or replaced the switches? The panel is so simple (OEM) that building with additional positions wouldn't be difficult as well.
My first thought after switch #2 puked, was that I would need a whole new panel. Fortunately I could get just replacement parts.
I would recommend replacing the original toggles if you still have the originals. The wire was corroded at the solder connection, which is what gave way.
I must have the upgraded plastic backerboard instead of birchboard. I have all soldered connections, so had to remove the old wiring from the fuse, and solder on the new.
RG-58U has the highest signal loss and RG-213 the least, but 213 is about 1/2" in diameter. The RG-8X that i use falls in between and is about 1/4" diameter. RG-59U is optimized for TV band and really isn't a good choice.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i> <br />RG-58U has the highest signal loss and RG-213 the least, but 213 is about 1/2" in diameter. The RG-8X that i use falls in between and is about 1/4" diameter. RG-59U is optimized for TV band and really isn't a good choice. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.