Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
What's the engine year? On the earlier (rectangular cowl) models, there might not be space below the anti-ventilation plate for some larger diameter, high-thrust props. The standard props on those models are intended to drive a light-weight boat at planing speeds, while the lower pitch, larger diameter (or 4-blade) props are better for starting and stopping heavy "displacement" hulls, although some have reported they burn a little more fuel at cruising speed due to higher RPMs.
You might ask a Honda dealer, although if his clientele is exclusively powerboaters, he might not have your answer.
Is this vibration happening only when the prop spins, or does it happen in neutral?
If it happens in neutral also, have you tried a carb cleaner? I use Mercury Power Tune on mine about halfway through the season. (I use this simply because I already have it for my 50 hp outboard.) I spray it into the air intake until it stalls out. Others swear by SeaFoam, which is a gas additive.
I'd think you need a pretty big ding on a prop to cause a significant vibration - big enough to see. But I'm no expert at this.
If the "inner boot" your describing is in the center of the prop hub it's made of rubber and it may be spinning inside the hub which would cause a vibration. The "inner boot" is pressed into the center of the hub under high pressure and is designed to absorb an impact if the prop strikes a solid object. This protects the prop shaft from getting bent and in some cases can prevent major damage to the prop itself.
If you've ever struck a solid object or sometimes just due to old age the rubber will break loose or lose its grip in the hub and will start to spin under load. Eventually it will spin so easily that the boat will barely move.
If that turns out to be the problem a prop shop can press out the old rubber and press in a new rubber and the prop will be good as new. They will also straighten any bent blades and repair any dings in the prop.
I suspect it is best to go by the recommendations of your marine dealer as to if switching to the high thrust impeller is feasible and/or a good idea.
I am not familiar with your present Honda outboard configuration but based on changing out my water pump impeller last year, there are some differences between these configurations even if same hp rating. For example, I have a 2006 Extra Long Shaft, high thrust (4 blade) 9.9Hp Honda and when I changed out the impeller, the impeller my dealer initially provided from supply would not fit. Turns out that the extra long shaft high thrust model has a beefier shaft and the dealer then provided me with the appropriate impeller (has a larger inside diameter).
But on the prop end, perhaps there are no changes in the configuration and you can substitute one prop for another. Maybe your dealer or contacting Honda direct would be able to provide some input to your decision as to the fit and reliable operation.
My motor is a 1997 I believe. I checked out the prop and it has a slight bend in one blade.
I know the marine dealer can straighten the blade, but my boat is about 45 mins from home the other direction from the dealer. I might buy a second prop to have while the other one gets fixed.
Is it bad to run the engine with a bent prop? I'm thinking of taking the boat out this weekend and just using the motor to get on and off the mooring. The vibration seems minimal in lo RPM's<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />What's the engine year? On the earlier (rectangular cowl) models, there might not be space below the anti-ventilation plate for some larger diameter, high-thrust props. The standard props on those models are intended to drive a light-weight boat at planing speeds, while the lower pitch, larger diameter (or 4-blade) props are better for starting and stopping heavy "displacement" hulls, although some have reported they burn a little more fuel at cruising speed due to higher RPMs.
You might ask a Honda dealer, although if his clientele is exclusively powerboaters, he might not have your answer. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Any other recommendations for carb cleaner? I have heard both positive and negative reviews of carburetor cleaners.
I did stupidly run some old gas mixed with new this year which has caused some problems.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TakeFive</i> <br />Is this vibration happening only when the prop spins, or does it happen in neutral?
If it happens in neutral also, have you tried a carb cleaner? I use Mercury Power Tune on mine about halfway through the season. (I use this simply because I already have it for my 50 hp outboard.) I spray it into the air intake until it stalls out. Others swear by SeaFoam, which is a gas additive.
I'd think you need a pretty big ding on a prop to cause a significant vibration - big enough to see. But I'm no expert at this.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by oregonworld</i> <br />No vibration in neutral.
Any other recommendations for carb cleaner? I have heard both positive and negative reviews of carburetor cleaners.
I did stupidly run some old gas mixed with new this year which has caused some problems.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TakeFive</i> <br />Is this vibration happening only when the prop spins, or does it happen in neutral?
If it happens in neutral also, have you tried a carb cleaner? I use Mercury Power Tune on mine about halfway through the season. (I use this simply because I already have it for my 50 hp outboard.) I spray it into the air intake until it stalls out. Others swear by SeaFoam, which is a gas additive.
I'd think you need a pretty big ding on a prop to cause a significant vibration - big enough to see. But I'm no expert at this.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> The bent blade is probably causing the vibration. If that is the problem continuing to use the motor could cause damage to the prop seals and possibly the prop shaft bearings.
Best bet is to pull the prop and get it to the shop.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.