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Haul out planning

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markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/04/2003 : 10:23:27

Ok.. the day is finally approaching.
I am starting to make preparations for the haul out! I am hauling out on the 14th so still have time do bombard you guys with questions.

here is my sequence of events:

-Boat cleaned out (cushions and stuff removed)
-Boat hauled out
-Boat pressure cleaned
-Estimate Given/work done
· Remove keel and sandblast
· Fix crack in keel trunk
· Inspect to-hulls
· Extent of blistering
-Bottom sanded
-Fix all Electronics
-Bottom painted
-Keel painted:
-Hull Waxed

Here is a list of items i need to paint the bottom with:

-Keel Primer
· Interlux 2000 ($24 quart)
· Rustlock by Petit ($27 quart)
*are both of these necessary after the keel has been sandblasted???

-Antifouling Paint
· Ultra Kote by Interlux ($135 gallon)
· ..or Petit Trinidad ($125 gallon)
*i live in florida, boat is in saltwater, alot of fouling in biscayne bay. which do you recommend, also, do you think i need a paint stripper to remove all the old antifouling? how easily does it come off? is it better to just sand? what size/type sandpaper should i use?

-Equipment
· 2 rollers
· paint brushes
· gloves (already purchased)
· respirator masks
· Masking tape
*missing anything?

I have all the keel hardware under control. i am probably gonna order a new cable, anode, and depending on the wear, the turning ball.

Am i missing anything?

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 11:01:04

Hi Marco,

All I can say is it makes me feel tired just to read your list ... !

On the other hand, I feel pretty good in that I have already done most of the things on your list. I've been reading This Old Boat by Don Casey ... it's a great book for anyone who is fixing up an older fiberglass boat ('sorry, I can't remember who recommended the book on this Forum, but it is a good one ... was it you, Leon?).

One of the things he suggests is to break down each project into steps that you can check off as you complete them. It's a psychological boost to see that you are completing a given project, even when the step doesn't always "show."

I'm sure others will weigh in and add some items to your list ... the only thing I can see that you obviously left out is ... BEER! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

Buzz Maring, C-25 SK/SR #68, "Freya"
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 12:23:31

You also need either VERY old clothes (to throw away afterwards) or disposable overalls...
Derek (who, thank heavens, doesn't need bottom jobs any more) <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 12:36:22

Buzz and Derek,

Thanks for the input.. especially the beer <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> i have to entice my buddies to help scrape and sand <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

any idea on the other questions about the rustlock and interlux 2000, and the paint stripper?

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 13:23:46

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
-Boat cleaned out (cushions and stuff removed)
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

 Not always necessary to get all that stuff off...make sure your motor is off the boat prior to lift

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Here is a list of items i need to paint the bottom with:

-Keel Primer
· Interlux 2000 ($24 quart)
· Rustlock by Petit ($27 quart)
*are both of these necessary after the keel has been sandblasted???

-Antifouling Paint
· Ultra Kote by Interlux ($135 gallon)
· ..or Petit Trinidad ($125 gallon)
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
 I think you are looking at a lot more paint than you need. I can do the entire bottom with 1 quart of VC-17 per coat

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>· Masking tape<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
 If you are using any bottom paint with a copper additive, be sure to pull the tape off right after painting....don't wait for the stuff to dry.

 I can't recommend a bottom paint for you, since I am in a completely different environment.

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

jsummerfield
1st Mate

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USA
96 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 15:07:07

I am also planning a haul out and will add to the question. The Catalina Direct tech tips mention replacing the old bronze pip thru-hull fittings with marine ball valves made of glass reinforced nylon. One yard that I contacted in Houston advised that people are going back to the bronze. I have not yet checked to see which fittings I have. What is recommended if we have the bronze volcano style thru-hull fittings?

My list follows:
Item 1 - Haul, block & launch, with mast up; or lower mast for haul out

Item 2 - Preparation including power-wash, scraping, visual inspection of surface, light sanding of painted surfaces and hardware, solvent cleaning, blister repair if applicable.
Two (2) coats of Interlux with options A or B.
A-Fiberglass BottomCote, hard-finish contact leeching paint;
B-Ultra with Biolux Technology to Block Slime.
C-Alternate Boat Yard Recommendation
Optional item 3 - Pricing to replace through-hull fittings and valves
If the boat has bronze with built-up through-hull fittings, replace with D1845 ball valves, Z1808 through-hull fittings and Z2002 installation kit (good for two valves). See Catalina Direct page 4.74 for hose fittings.

Optional item 4 - Pricing for storage from one week to one-month or so out of water storage. The storage time permits optional yard work or for owner to apply gel-coat repair (D1720 p. 4.7) to hull while out of water and perform some mast wiring work, etc.

I sent a couple of emails today requesting pricing for the above tasks while I am out of the country.

John

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3323 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 18:23:06

"I can do the entire bottom with 1 quart of VC-17 per coat"
Duane - how do you apply it to have such a small amount cover a large area? Spray it?
Since Duane mentioned masking tape - here's a tip. When you pull off the tape, pull it at 90 degrees out from the hull (in other words don't fold it all the way back and pull) - this picks it off cleanly without "chipping" the paint edge.
Derek

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/04/2003 : 20:19:01

Here is an article titled The Definitive Spring Work List by Tom Wood that I found on SailNet. It's got some good stuff.

The Definitive Spring Work List

The romantics among us love to personify sailboats, generally in the form of a shapely she. But most boat owners know that a sailboat is really a machine composed of thousands of small parts. Like the war that was lost for want of a nail, the failure of many of these parts can ruin an entire sailing season.

Machinery likes to be worked and often fails from sheer idleness. After a period of layup, a boat needs a thorough checkup before it is put back into service. So, I offer you a checklist that you can use to help get back on the water with a minimum of surprises. It is not possible, of course, to cover every piece of gear that every sailor could possible have on his or her boat, but if your solar panels and wind generator don’t work, it won’t stop you from sailing.

Don’t let this list daunt you with its length—many of the items only require a glance or a few moments to complete. It is a reminder, though, that it is always easier to maintain constant vigilance throughout the year, doing as much of the inspection and maintenance as possible throughout the season and at layup. If you neglected your inspection last fall, you may pay now with a big load of work while those who kept with the chores over the winter are out there sailing in those clean, brisk spring winds.

Print this list out, take it to the boat this weekend, and begin the process. A few of the smaller items can always be taken home for tweaking during the week—a far better pastime than watching the tube.

Hull There are numerous areas to check regarding the hull on any boat, but here are the basics that you must cover:
-Make sure the bottom is clean and has a good coat of antifouling paint on it.
-Clean and wax the hull.
-Clean the bilge and pump strainers.
-Make hull numbering legible and legal with current stickers.
-Touch up paint on boot, sheer, name, and hailing port.
-Inspect and clean the chainplates (make sure they’re leak-free).
-Check bobstay or boomkin fittings for rust or other problems including metal fatigue.

Deck Once again, you could drive yourself crazy with all the areas that ought to be checked, but here are the essentials:
-Protect exterior woodwork.
-Ensure that nonskid still has good nonslip properties.
-Clean and wax the deck where necessary.
-Check to see that hatches and ports are operational, leak-free, and have no substantial corrosion in their parts.
-Inspect stanchions, pulpits, and lifelines to ensure that they're in good condition.
-Make sure cleats and chocks are firmly affixed.
-Wax and polish all stainless or metal work.
-Check that deck blocks, tracks, and travelers roll and slide smoothly.
-Make sure that ventilators are operational and leak-free.
-Clean, repair, and treat all canvas work, even the stuff that's in storage.

Mechanical Of course almost everything on board a boat is mechanical, but make sure that you particularly go over these items:
-Make sure you've got all tools and spares on board.
-Inspect rudder, shaft, and bearings to be sure they're smooth and tight.
-Ensure that wheel or tiller has positive feel and is in good condition.
-Check to see that steering cables or hydraulic hoses have no flaws.
-Make sure the steering quadrant is tight.
-Adjust steering packing gland if necessary.
-Make sure that refrigeration system(s) is operational.
-Test heating and air-conditioning systems.

Plumbing This area of the boat includes not only your water and fuel tanks and your head, but also the propane system if you have one.
-Check for leaks in LPG and fuel systems.
-Inspect thru-hulls.
-Service any seacocks and make sure they're leak-free.
-Clear and service scuppers and all valves.
-Clean out all strainers.
-Inspect hoses and hose clamps to make sure they're sound and tight.
-Drain and flush water tank, and then re-fill it.
-Make sure the toilet and holding tank are operational.
-Test all pumps and systems so that they're operational.
-Ensure that all faucets and fixtures are working and leak-free.

Electrical Essential as your electrical system is, you definitely want to make sure everything here is operational.
-Charge batteries and make sure they're topped up with water.
-Check all electrical cables for damage and bright, tight connections.
-Make sure all circuits, lights, and appliances are operational.
-Ensure that all gauges and monitors are operational.
-Get 120-volt power cord in good condition.
-Check battery charger, inverter, and 120-volt appliances.

Engine and Propulsion There shouldn't be much to do here, but this is where the old adage about "for the want of a nail" really comes into play.
-Clean engine and see that it's free of rust.
-Check engine mounts.
-Make sure that lube oil is clean and topped up.
-Top up transmission fluid.
-Make sure that coolant is clean and topped up.
-Inspect pump impeller for wear and any leaks.
-Inspect and tighten all belts.
-Make sure all hose and electrical connections are tight.
-Be sure that all gauges and alarms are operational.
-Correct any misalignment of the engine.
-Adjust packing gland—and repack if necessary.
-Inspect cutless bearing.
-Clean propeller and inspect for dings.
-Make sure that propeller nuts and cotter pins are tight and sound.
-Renew shaft zincs as necessary.
(Repeat all applicable above for second engine or generator)

Mooring and Anchoring Gear
Here's an area that directly affects the security of your vessel, so don't skimp.
-Check anchor rollers for operation.
-Inspect and test windlass.
-Check anchors for or rust or other problems.
-Inspect and seize anchor shackles and swivels.
-Inspect anchor rodes and fasten the bitter ends to the boat.
-Inspect dock lines for chafe.
-Inspect chafe guards.
-Inspect fenders and lines.
-Check that the boat hook is on board.

Spars, Rigging, and Sails
This is broad area, and probably one that you'll revisit throughout the sailing season. -Check paint on spar—clean and wax as necessary.
-Inspect sailtracks.
-Lubricate sheaves on all blocks and mast fittings.
-Inspect tangs, tang bolts, goosenecks, spreader bases, and ends.
-Check spreaders and spreader boots.
-Inspect mast lights, antennas, instruments, and electronics.
-Clean and service all winches.
-Inspect bobstay and fittings.
-Check that roller furling operates smoothly.
-Inspect rig and check rig tune.
-Ensure that turnbuckles turn freely and have no bends.
-Inspect all clevis and cotter pins and re-tape for chafe protection.
-Make sure that all running rigging is clean with no worn spots.
-Inspect shackles to ensure that they open and close easily.
-See that running rigging is properly rove.
-Ensure that spinnaker pole ends and chocks operate smoothly.
-Inspect all sails to see that they're clean and without tears.
-Have a look at stitching, patchwork, and rings.
-Check that the battens are sound and properly in place.
-Look for chafe on the leech, foot, and luff lines.
-Make sure that sailcovers and bags are clean and in good condition.
-Inspect lifelines for wear and corrosion.

Electronics and Navigation Depending upon how extensive the electronics are on your boat, the maintenance here is pretty easy.
-Make sure that underwater electronic transducers are sound and operational.
-Check antennas and cables for damage.
-See that the main compass has no bubbles and reads easily.
-Replace all dry-cell batteries where necessary.
-Test all items to see that they get power.
-Ensure that you've got current charts, books, and nav tools on board.

Interior Again, there's not much to do here, but it's all important.
-Make sure you've got all applicable ownership papers on board.
-Get the cushions, covers, and carpets clean.
-Clean bulkheads and interior surfaces so that they're free of mildew.
-Make sure that the galley stove is operational.
-Check all doors, drawers, and cabinet hardware for operation.

Dinghy Of course this area may not apply to all boat owners, but it doesn't hurt to be informed.
-Make sure the dinghy has its legal numbering and stickers.
-Make sure that the dinghy is clean and free of leaks.
-Make sure the dinghy repair kit is on board.
-Check the oars, oarlocks, drain plug, bailer.
-Put outboard, key tether, fuel tank, hose, and safety lock in place.
-Inspect davits and falls, or other dinghy storage equipment, for operation.
-Check that outboard storage bracket and lift are solid.
-Check that you've got outboard oil and spare parts.

Safety Gear Last but never least, these are the things that could save your bacon when something goes wrong, so make sure you cover these areas carefully.
-Make sure that your PFDs are legal, clean, and easily accessible.
-Ensure that the fire extinguishers and flares are up to date.
-Make sure the bell and horn are operational and accessible.
-Check that the legal oil and garbage discharge plaques are in place.
-Make sure that the harnesses and tethers are in good working order.
-Make sure that the first-aid kit is current and complete.
-Inspect the COB pole and equipment.
-Update batteries in the EPIRB, flashlight, and other signaling equipment.

I realize that this list represents a fair bit of work, but even if you have other people maintain your boat, you'll want to have a list like this handy to check the areas that they've worked on. Of course there may be other issues I haven't mentioned that pertain to some sailors, like the care and condition of a trailer if you keep your boat on one, but covering the above items should keep most boats in working order. Now get out and enjoy that vessel.

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2cc32b3127cce92e981259d130000001010" border=0>
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/05/2003 : 08:32:50

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
"I can do the entire bottom with 1 quart of VC-17 per coat"
Duane - how do you apply it to have such a small amount cover a large area? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

We sprayed it the one year Derek, however in most years we roll it. VC paints very thin to begin with, even with that in consideration, a gallon seems to be a lot. Maybe I am wrong with the other brands.

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/05/2003 : 11:13:22

i printed the list and am gonna go through it.. probably not ALL of it though <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

I still am a little confused as to the correct procedure for the bottom/keel. Interlux 2000 and Rustlock by Petit are both of these necessary after the keel has been sandblasted???

Also, i live in florida, boat is in saltwater, alot of fouling in biscayne bay. which paint do you recommend, also, do you think i need a paint stripper to remove all the old antifouling? how easily does it come off? is it better to just sand? what size/grit sandpaper should i use? and is a round snading bit on a drill a good method of sanding?

thanks..
-m

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 02/05/2003 : 12:39:51

I believe Interlux 2000 is an epoxy barrier coat, and is good if you've sanded all the bottom paint off down to gelcoat. The barrier coat probably only needs to go on the 'fiberglass area', not the metal keel. The Rustlock by Petit is for your keel. The bottom paint goes over both as the final coat. I've heard good things about Petite Trinidad SR (slime resistant) especially for your type of water.

Check with the yard you are planning on doing this in. Some have rules about sanding and the capture of residual. The striper version may be your only option. If you can sand, I use 40-60 grit sandpaper, and an orbital sander. (the drill based sanding disk would probably work as well) But I also did alot of hand sanding with a 2x4 by 6" wood block wrapped in sand paper. You need lots of sand paper as it gums up pretty quick. I also highly recommend a full face respirator if you have or can get one. Or at least an industrial dual-filter rubber mask (not the paper dust masks). And a white Tyvec disposable coveralls, boot covers and disposable work gloves,
You'll look like a bio-harzard clean up guy ! !
And use green masking tape - it doesn't leave any glue residue if you happen to leave it on longer.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/05/2003 : 12:40:12

Marco,

A lot of your questions depend on the existing condition of your boat bottom. It could just need a light sanding and recoat, or a complete strip off with blister repair and an epoxy bottom. Does the boat already have an epoxy bottom? What is the current antifouling paint...hard, soft, ablative? Is there blistering?

I suggest you poke around the Interlux Paint website http://us.yachtpaint.com/usa/ and check out both the Product and the Boat Painting guides.

Additionally, it would be hard for anyone that is not in your vicinity to recommend an antifouling paint because what works up here in cold fresh water may not be suitable for warm saltwater. It also depends on how you sail your boat. Do you leave it in year round, wet slip, dry slip, race...etc? Do you want an ablative paint or performance? Hard or soft? Heavy, medium, or light antifouling? Slime and shell problems? Premium or economy? The choices will make your head spin. Your best bet is to go ask people at your marina what they use. If you can, try to get a look at their boat bottoms to see if they are relatively clean or if they need a shave. Go to this link at Interlux Paint to see a guide on paint selection.

http://us.yachtpaint.com/usa/boat_painting_guide/bpg2001/boaters_guides/pages/p18.htm

As for how to paint your keel. Click on this link to take you to the Interlux Boat painting guide. It has a pretty detailed procedure for painting both iron/steel and lead keels.

http://us.yachtpaint.com/usa/boat_painting_guide/bpg2001/boaters_guides/pages/p23_24.htm

Here's an article titled "Paint the Bottom Yourself" by Tom Wood that might give you some insight. His article mentions sandblasting to remove bottom paint, but this is not recommended for fiberglass hulls only metal.

http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=woodto029

Don Lucier, 'North Star'
C25 SR/FK
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2cc32b3127cce92e981259d130000001010" border=0>
Cradled on the hard, 200ft from Lake Erie

Edited by - on

n/a
deleted

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2003 : 08:24:11

For a metal keel, once you have cleaned it up, you want an inert barrier coat such as an epoxy material to prevent galvanic corrosion from occurring. This can happen when you coat cast iron with copper and put it in salt water. The epoxy barrier coat effectively insulates the one from the other. Often the paint manufactuter will have something about it in the label instructions in the section about painting metal.

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2003 : 09:37:59

Thank you all for the input.

I will ask around about the paint, but after the research i have done on my own the two i mentioned were the most used around here.

I have organized almost everything. I have convinced an armada of my freinds to come scrape-for-beer and things should go smoothely. I'll take plenty of pics and post and probably ask for your input along the way <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

ciao
-marco

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/06/2003 : 12:21:38

marco,

Here's a link to a description of what I did about preparing my swing keel for bottom paint. [url="http://trailersailor.com/forums/tsarchives6/index.cgi?read=154102"]link to Swing Keel Maint.[/url] I've used this procedure on two cast iron swing keels so far. I've hauled those treated keels for inspection and maintenance a total of three times, after at least two years at a time in tropical salt water. The method described works if done carefully. If not done carefully, it fails in spots.

For bottom paint here on the east coast of Florida, I've been satisfied with the performance of "Interlux Micron CSC Extra with Biolux", but it's not cheap. I know, the name sounds like bogus ad copy for laundry detergent or something, but the stuff works. It's an ablative, so I put on an initial coat of a contrasting color (1 qt), followed by two or more coats of the desired final color. When the undercoat color starts to show through, it's time to reapply more of the top coat.

Let me know if you need more info.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2003 : 00:50:42

My fellow sailors and cyber friends,
Thank you so much for this valuable and timely thread.
I'm a new owner (July '02) and will be doing the same in a month or so. I too live in warm southeast, with my (s/k) boat in salt water always.
I will revisit this thread and study it often.

Cap'n Dave
Sailing The Blues
1986 C25 sr/sk #5413

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2003 : 13:17:57

Ditto to all dave said. You anywhere close to miami dave?

Anybody have a clue as to shipyard costs for professionally removing a keel, having it sandblasted, and putting it back on? I am working on the "monitary logistics" <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> and wanted to have an estimate...

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2003 : 14:53:33

marco,<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Anybody have a clue as to shipyard costs for professionally removing a keel, having it sandblasted, and putting it back on?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>I don't mean to sound like a smart alec, but you should ask your local boat yard, not us. On a probably more helpful note, you might first casually inquire about how experienced they are at removing, handling and reinstalling 1,500 lb. swing keels. To help you visualize the costs, you're looking at:

<ul><li>Haulout, either onto stands if the work is done at the marina, or onto a trailer of you plan to work on the boat at home. The marina I use hands out a rate chart with fees for hauling, sandblasting, lay days, etc, etc.</li><li>R&R keel. If any of the bolts break off, this can get very expensive very quickly.</li><li>Sandblasting. This is usually priced by the hour, although it really should be priced by the horse-power-hour. With a big engine driven blaster and experienced operator, figure maybe 3 hours. There are a lot of variables here.</li><li>Encapsulation, including acid treatment, initial barrier coating, rough fairing, cloth wrapping, final fairing, and some more barrier coating.</li><li>Painting with bottom paint, including really piling it on the areas of the keel and trunk that aren't going to be accessable with the keel installed.</li></ul>

Sorry I can't be more specific about total cost. So much depends on the condition of your keel, hanger bolts, who you do business with, how much they charge, how much of the work you do yourself, and so on.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

markolito
1st Mate

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Italy
95 Posts

Response Posted - 02/07/2003 : 17:02:19

hey leon,

the points you brought up are very good.

i would not have expected the sandblasting to be charged hourly. It makes sense though <img src=icon_smile_sleepy.gif border=0 align=middle>

The guy i spoke to specializes in retractable keels and sailboats in general, so they should be able to do the job. and the marina is pretty well equiped to handle a boat like mine.

Thanks for the extra input.. it was super helpful.

<img src="http://www.response-marketing.com/beta/plaa.jpg" border=0>
1980 SR/SK "Wet Pretzel"

Edited by - on

ddlyle
Captain

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Response Posted - 02/08/2003 : 10:32:25

Marko,
I live on Hilton Head Island SC. I like living where water doesn't get hard.
Re. removing the swing keel (for painting etc)
I saw some instructions somewhere here for using threaded rod (like REALLY long bolts)to gradually lower the keel. That way you can clean and paint the top of the keel without totally removing it.
As I recall, it seemed like a way to lower it without having to deal with a 1500# weight wanting to fall over on its side.

I don't look forward to this, but my desire to take care of my keel is stronger than my desire to be lazy. (not much stronger, but it is)

Good luck,

Cap'n Dave
Sailing The Blues
1986 C25 sr/sk #5413

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