Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
We have the same unit as Larry, I think it's 15amps, way more than I expect to generate, way more!
However, I've been looking into a hybrid controller as I'm building my own Wind Turbine, but have not found a unit as nice as the Pro-Star that is hybrid and has the digital readouts.
Still searching.
When I find one, my Pro-Star will show up in the swap meet
Well, silly me. I was attracted to a film panel because my charging requirments were minimal and it was easy to stow. After doing some more reading I discovered (duh!) the flexible units degrade more quickly than the rigid models. The rigid models are a lot less money for more output.
One disadvantange of the rigid units however is size. On a 25' boat, hanging a 59"x26" panel would, IMHO, look a tad out of proportion. So I found a place called Solar Boulevard that sell smaller units that can be bolted together, creating a finished product that is roughly 59"x14". I plan to hang it off the back of the stern pulpit using the same hardware as MaineSail.
Based on the feedback above, it looks like I might be able to do better elsewhere on the controller.
This is just a jumping off point for us. We plan to add more electrical equipment later. When we need to upgrade, that's when we'll get more into the numbers. Any comments, guidance on the above would be appreciated. I am (as usual) aiming to put together a quality product.
There are two basic technologies used for the rigid panels, monocrystalline and polycrystalline. The mono* panels are more efficient for the same size, while the poly* ones are less expensive and work a little better when shaded.
As an example we have a 30w panel on our boat that is 24x18" and it is mono*. The 15w panel on my shed at home is 36x14" (another 25% larger in surface area) but poly*. That panel that you linked to is as well.
These panels are imported from China and sold under a variety of brand names. Prices for a 30w panel will be a little under $100 to a little over. I do get a true 2.5 amps (28 watts) out of it in bright sun according to my battery monitor. In cloudy conditions it will drop to under half an amp (6 watts).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">This is just a jumping off point for us. We plan to add more electrical equipment later. When we need to upgrade, that's when we'll get more into the numbers. Any comments, guidance on the above would be appreciated. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> What do want the solar panel for? Keeping the batteries charged while not in use? Or, providing power while on the boat?
After deciding that I really only need the solar power for a few trips during the year, I decided to skip the more expensive MPPT controllers and just go with a economical one. If I ever decide to move aboard.... I'll get the mega effecient version.
Here is a pic of my 80w panel:
I only run that panel if I'm going on a multi-day trip. I use a small 5w panel in it's place when I just want to keep the batteries topped off.
I see the Genasun MPPT controllers as being nearly free when you take into account the reduced cost of a smaller panel. A 50w panel with a MPPT controller and a 30w panel without provide about the same level of functionality. The smaller panel also gets away with simpler and less expensive mounting hardware.
I took a very simple-minded approach to solar panels. I place my 30W mono on the seat when I'm not on the boat and use a shunting charge regulator. If the battery is deeply discharged I take out my other 20W panel, plug it in (in parallel) and put it on the other seat. I also charge it any time I run my engine. I notice that the engine charges it a 14.4v while the solar panel gets the the battery up to ~13.5 VDC. This approach has kept my now six year-old W*M Group 24 battery fully charged. If I had multiple batteries and an 80 W or greater panel then I'd go with a more sophisticated pulse width modulated charger.
I bought both my Morningstar Pro 15M controller and a 20 watt Kyocera 20" x 14" panel from Northern Arizona Wind and Sun. That was over 7 years ago - Works fine. Rigid panels come in two different solar crystal configurations with the more expensive ones still putting out some juice if slightly shaded. Also, the more expensive ones generally have the smallest footprint. You will find that very few 20 watt panels come in a 20" x 14" or smaller footprint. (A 30 watt Kyocera, 7 years ago, was a 20" x 20" footprint.) The flexible panels have their versatility but with shorter warranties (generally meaning they will not last as long) and the flexible ones have significantly larger footprints than the rigid panels but they do have their benefits as to where they can be placed and they are more way more portable than the rigid ones. I located my rigid panel on home-made brackets high enough above the outboard that if I ever have to remove the outboard, I can easily undo the support arm wing nuts and move the panel out of the way or just leave in place since the outboard can be removed without disturbing the panel. The panel can also be adjusted on the support brackets for angling it for winter or summer sun.
Here is Wind & Sun web link followed by my hookup (Controller see posting,above, w/photo)
Right now, they do not seem to be selling Kyocera low watt solar panels - only large watt Kyoceras. But they have other Mfr panels in the 1-100 watt range http://www.solar-electric.com/1to39wasopa.html
More photos on my website - Click on DETAILs once on the Solar Panel link
I have a 100 watt panel (can't get to the member photo area on the work LAN, so no pictures) and AGM batteries...after reading more than I ever wanted to read about panels, battery types, chargers, etc I went with a Morningstar SunSaver 15 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller found here -
Paul Are you seriously building your own wind turbine? I've done some reading on them and you can buy them well below $1000. While doable there are a few design challenges: 1. Finding a DC motor or building a generator using copper wire, permanent magnets and creating a rotor with the proper bearings to take a transverse load. Many people use the motors they find in retired treadmills (ample during spring cleaning at the side of the road) or DC motors from now antique computer tape drives. 2. You need to build the windmill "fan". I've seen them fashioned from 4-6" diameter PVC pipe attached to a plywood disc and a big pulley. 3. Then there's the windmill mount - you have to bolt the motor down to a solid platform which must be able to rotate around in any direction. This needs to be extremely solid as it must bear the full force of the wind and rotating blades. 4. You need a commutator that retains electrical contact as the mount rotates through 360, 720, 1080 degrees around and around. Since it will carry up to 40A, it should have heavy silver brushes and slip rings. 5. You need a tower and guy wires to attach it securely somewhere to your boat. 6. And a high wind speed brake. You don't want the windmill running at 1200 RPM in a gale. Tear the thing up. These are all pretty serious design challenges... Love to see the results.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.