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 Keel Repair		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Katitude
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USA
31 Posts
Initially Posted - 08/17/2013 :  18:09:42  Show Profile  Visit Katitude's Homepage
Just purchsed a 1980 Catalina fixed keel. Lots of rust on keel, sanded down and found bondo, which was cracking and pitting. Sanded large (4inch) area. What to fill with? I dont think more bondo is the answer (holds water). Epoxy.. but would have to be a fairly large area and about 1 inch deep.
Anyone have an anwer on this?
"I'm the Captain.. that's why"
1980 Catalina 25 SR #1743
Sailng in San Francisco Bay
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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts
Response Posted - 08/17/2013 :  18:51:18  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Interlux watertight... works well, but is tough to sand. You need a decent working temperature. But it works nicely, and is designed for below the waterline.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4148
Edited by - shnool on 08/17/2013 18:52:28
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Katitude
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USA
31 Posts
Response Posted - 08/18/2013 :  09:33:50  Show Profile  Visit Katitude's Homepage
Thanks.. Do You Think It Will adhere Well To The Steel Keel?
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Katitude
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USA
31 Posts
Response Posted - 08/18/2013 :  09:34:33  Show Profile  Visit Katitude's Homepage
Thanks.. Do You Think It Will adhere Well To The Steel Keel?
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usa 63
1st Mate

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USA
42 Posts
Response Posted - 08/18/2013 :  11:42:06  Show Profile
We had problems with the keel and blisters on the bottom and filled them all with West Systems and 406, 407, and 410. I started with 406 on structural/ deep areas, then added 407 to the mix until it was almost done then used all 407. Hit any final areas that needed shaping with 410 then painted everything with interprotect 2000. It may sound long and drawn out but it wasn't too bad. Let me know if you have any questions. Biggest thing I've learned it to protect whatever work you've done with a barrier coat. Started with atleast 1000 blisters and have none after 3 years in the water. We also painted any compartment that may hold water with 2000 so it doesn't blister from the top.
Edited by - usa 63 on 08/18/2013 11:43:29
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts
Response Posted - 08/18/2013 :  12:04:29  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
I was going to suggest using WEST System as well, but since I've never actually faired a keel with it, I had no practical advice to offer.

I've used it for many other things and never had a failure yet. The thing to remember is make sure the surface to be bonded to is freshly prepped so there's no weathering of the surface, and scrupulously clean (acetone is your friend) before you apply the epoxy. High temperatures are not your friend, the hotter the surface is you're applying to, the less working time you have. Mix your epoxy in a disposable cake pan so it's nice & thin (less thermal mass), it'll stay workable longer. Once it starts to "kick" (get warm to the touch, less workable & stiffer), discard it. If you continue to use it, you're likely to have to grind it out.

You can thicken it to the consistency of peanut butter with additives, but keep in mind the thicker it is, the quicker it's going to kick. A 1" thick piece is going to get fairly hot. If you're in a warm part of the US, you might want to wait till it's fairly cool outside and the keel has had a chance to cool as well to slow down the reaction.
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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts
Response Posted - 08/19/2013 :  08:05:02  Show Profile
I have also used Watertite on my cast iron keel, and it bonds well and I found it as easy as any similar product to work with. The key is to use the right tool for the job. If a substance is tough to sand, I use a 4 1/2" grinder, which will cut off the excess quickly. Then I smooth it with a finish sander. Truthfully, I don't remembe4r it being especially hard to sand, but that's very subjective.

I have used many similar products to fair my keel, and they all work reasonably well. West System products are excellent, but I like Watertite, because I don't have to mix it with anything other than the catalyst. It works straight out of the can.

I agree with usa 63 about the importance of protecting your work, at each step of the way, with some kind of barrier. If you expose any bare iron, spray a coat of rust reformer on it immediately, before you begin to put fairing compound over it. After you're done, barrier coat the keel.

Finally, I strongly suggest you attach an anode to the keel (zinc for salt water, and whatever is currently recommended for fresh water). It will prevent the formation of gas bubbles under the fairing compound, which will lift and detach the fairing compound.
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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts
Response Posted - 08/19/2013 :  17:42:12  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Sorry to go MIA on ya, was traveling... We visited Oriental, NC, which I'd recommend to ANY sailor. Great town. Great sailing venue as well!

But yeah, the watertite sticks well to just about anything, and designed for fairing keels.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.