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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/03/2013 :  03:01:59  Show Profile
1.) Anyone have suggestions for removing the plexi-glass forward hatch from the frame? I need to replace it and the gasket. Also, those of you with an '89, do we have a Bomar forward hatch or Lewmar. I'm thinking it's a Bomar.

2.) When refinishing my teak handrails I assume I need to sand them down 1st, do I need to bleach them also before applying Cetol?

3.) Did most of us come to an agreement on which color of Cetol to use for a natural color? What final coat do I use to get the best UV protection.

Thanks in advance!


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GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9080 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2013 :  07:07:52  Show Profile
3. Practical Sailor found that the original Cetol (Marine) provides the best UV protection of the various Cetols. Natural Teak, which is more yellowish, did not do nearly as well. Cetol Gloss is an optional top-coat to be put over the others, and offers no UV protection on its own. I happen to prefer the satin finish and darker color of Cetol Marine--I've used it and Natural Teak. But that's a matter of taste.

2. This depends on what's on them and what condition it's in. For Concours results, sand everything off and use a teak cleaner to remove any remaining mildew from the grain. For Cetol that's worn in places, you can rub it down with a Scotchbrite pad to remove any flaking and de-gloss the surface. Apply one coat to any bare areas, and then a few more to the whole thing.

1. Bomar. [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=730&ParentCat=374"]CD sells the hatch, the lens, and the gasket.[/url] Note what they say about thickness...

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 09/03/2013 07:13:46
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2013 :  21:56:39  Show Profile
I am.currently using natural teak. I sanded to bare wood and washed but didn't bleach and ended up with a rich brown that is a little darker than oiled teak. I really like the color. For sanding: I thought it looked and felt pretty good after 120 grit, so before wasting a lot of time I did 3 sections going from 80 to 120 on all, up to 180 on 2 and finished with 220 on the last. I like the satin finish and could see no difference between the 3 sections after the Cetol dried. Gloss might change that, but it saved a lot of time and effort only having to sand twice.

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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 09/04/2013 :  05:57:23  Show Profile
Thank you Dave and Dave!

The teak on my handrails is flaking off and most of it is gone. Where the Cetol is gone the teak has turned grey.

How much do I sand it, just enough to get the remaining Cetol off or do I sand down to fresh wood and then clean?

Should I apply Cetol to the underside of the handrails where they meet the deck or leave it unfinished so the wood can breathe?

Any suggestions for getting the hatch lens out of the frame?

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 09/04/2013 :  06:23:06  Show Profile
Go to fresh wood for even color. I did the bottoms figuring that the polysufide bedding would seal it anyway and it would be easier to remove if I rebed in the future.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 09/04/2013 06:24:06
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GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 09/04/2013 :  06:28:01  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave5041</i>
<br />Go to fresh wood for even color. I did the bottoms figuring that the polysufide bedding would seal it anyway and it would be easier to remove if I rebed in the future.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Good point.

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