Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
It appears to be bronze but I can't be sure that is a Marine gate valve. Looks to me that it is a household plumbing valve. If it is leaking from the stem you can usually tighten up the nut a little that the stem goes into to to tighten the packing material. I think that the FS stands for fire safe.
I just replaced all of the thru hulls on mine. Its not that hard of a job when its out of the water. I'll post some pics when I get a chance. Definitely worth the peace of mind to do them proper. My boat had the gate valves like is in your picture. I replaced them with 1/4 turn bronze valves.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RAG Sailor</i> <br />That is a standard brass gate valve. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Around here the issue about replacing them has to do with how they are mounted to the hull. "to hull" or "through hull". he early C-25 were "to hull" or known as "volcanoes". Most feel replacing the early valves with new through hulls is a smart thing to do. Since these are standard gate valves is there a point to saving them and using them with new through hull plumbing or is it better to go with an all new valve with the through hull plumbing?
My strong preference is for a ball-valve, which has a lever that turns 90 degrees from open to closed. It doesn't rely on a washer that will wear out from twisting and compression, it obstructs flow less when open, and it's easy to see whether it's open or closed.
This one is bronze... My C-25 (Bruce's now) had Marelon ball valves, which won't be affected by stray current in the water. If you have a bonding system, the bronze ones have screws to attach to it.
I think Catalina didn't start installing proper <i>through</i>-hulls until a little later than 1980. Besides the volcano inside, looking at the outside, the original "to-hulls" had only a hole in the hull--nothing to mechanically hold the fitting from being pulled out on the inside. My 1985 had thru-hulls with a flat flanges around on the outside, countersunk into the hull. The more common thru-hull fittings have a little mushroom-like flange, and are either bronze or Marelon (reinforced nylon).
Going to post this again. I think anyone getting ready to replace seacocks should read up first. A thru-hull and valve is not the same thing as a seacock.
When I did mine I made a slight change. I used a 1/2" plywood disk saturated in epoxy resin and embedded the screws from under the disk (instead of through the hull first) so they stood up like studs. Then the disk with studs was epoxied to the inside of the hull. Also I used the Marelon seacock and thru hull fitting.
As Don Casey alludes to in his article, holes in your boat below the waterline are not something to take lightly. This is one place where shortcuts and "good enough" have no place.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.