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Winter Cover Question

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2013 : 08:39:26

Mine is branded Caframo, it is a great little big heater.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9081 Posts

Response Posted - 10/27/2013 : 08:57:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ronkmarsh
 i've heard from those who know better than me...that shrink wrapping doesn't allow the boat to breath over the course of the winter...as the temperature rises and drops. Condensation levels go crazy and water forms all over the interior...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I'll opine that this describes an improper job of shrink-wrapping. Mine is done with plastic vents in the rapper, and with foam blocks below the gunwales to keep the wrapper off the hull and allow more breathing. There's a larger opening where the wrapper goes over and around the outboard--I've wondered whether a raccoon could get in there, but it hasn't happened in five years. (However, they have boarded from my dock, had crab dinner, and then left their calling cards.)

Edited by - on

wegman
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 10/30/2013 : 14:21:44

As earlier posters have stated, it is not necessary to construct a frame if your mast is down. For the last three years I have simply removed the spreaders (only one cotter pin secures each spreader) and then spread a 30X20 silver tarp - about $100 as I recall - over the mast. Be sure to pad the tops of stanchions and any thing else that might damage the tarp. I secure each tarp grommet to the trailer frame. This creates a nice "cocoon" that completely encloses the boat. Inside, I run a small ceramic thermostat controlled heater with tip-over protection. I open all locker covers to assure ventilation. I also run non-toxic antifreeze through my water system in case the electricity fails and the temperature inside the boat drops below freezing.
By storing the boat on its trailer during the winter, we avoid stress and strain on the standing rigging that would occur if the boat was in the water. Also, the large tarp reaches almost to the trailer frame, protecting the boat's topsides.

Edited by - on

glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2013 : 07:09:35

As I stated earlier venting is key. The way that Dave described the shrink wrap on his boat is the system that most professionals will use. It allows the warm air to exit near the top of the cover, while allowing fresh air to enter at the gunwales. This circulation of air helps to prevent most condensation, and relieves excessive heat buildup. I have seen people make vents out of old milk jugs cut in half and taped in place

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2013 : 09:53:01

custom cover - breathable fabric. The new O'Day came with one. Setup and installation couldn't be easier. One brace at the front of the mast for a 2x6 which nests in the anchor roller, running up to the mast. It zippers around the mast and then uses the boom held up in place by another bracing frame.

Edited by - on

Tahoe Cruiser
1st Mate

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USA
72 Posts

Response Posted - 10/31/2013 : 21:05:25

I use the mast down as a ridge beam as well. Use a few lines front and rear to the dock line cleats which holds mast steady and tarp bungees to the trailer. We get feet of snow and it just slides right off. Takes a short time to throw up. These pictures were taken in the fall before last winter. I will be covering my 250 the same way.

Edited by - Tahoe Cruiser on 10/31/2013 21:17:26

CateP
Navigator

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USA
108 Posts

Response Posted - 11/04/2013 : 11:46:59

We decided to go with a shrink wrap this year. Our yacht club is getting a very good price for this service from experienced marine service people. I will make sure to look for venting as described here.

Edited by - on

Ka-Boom
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts

Response Posted - 12/05/2013 : 11:32:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 I leave my boom up, and run it up as high as possible. I add an 8' 1"x3" tied parallel to the boom to extend it out over the transom. I take 8 or 10 ft 1" PVC pipe and tie it over-top of the boom every 12" to make a frame. I tie down the pipe ends to make them bend over like a quonsett hut. I add foam rubber to the ends of the pipe and 1x3 to prevent chafe. I cover the frame with a heavy duty silver tarp. I add grommets between the existing ones along the edges, plus I add one for the topping lift, to keep the boom horizontal. I tie the tarp to the mast, but don't use duct tape, since it gums up the metal. Sometimes I cut a slot for the rear lower stays, sometimes not.
This keeps the snow out of the cockpit and off most of the cabintop. I leave the bow open and sweep it or clear the snow as needed. The boat is situated so that the bow points south. I usually keep my solar panel there to keep the battery topped up over the winter. I'm on year 6 of my W*M group 24 battery.
I visit the boat on some weekends to clear snow, hang out and do repairs.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Hi Voyager,
We're new boat owners and your way sounded the best - any pictures of the set-up that you can post?
Thanks

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 12/05/2013 : 12:04:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by CateP
 We decided to go with a shrink wrap this year. Our yacht club is getting a very good price for this service from experienced marine service people. I will make sure to look for venting as described here.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I had my C25 shrink-wrapped one year, and, when I removed it the next spring, I cut it laterally at the mast, and removed it carefully, and was able to re-use it for 3-4 years afterwards. It's very durable stuff, and the cost is not bad if you can extend it for more than one year.

Edited by - on

blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 12/31/2013 : 09:25:29

my boat came with a cover with an aluminum tubing frame, it's most certainly made specifically for this boat so it cost probably a lot when it was made but i ended up with it when i bought the boat, quite happy with it, protects even the sides!

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 01/01/2014 : 19:19:09

Hey Ka-Boom!
I'm just seeing your question now (about 1 month late). I plan on being at the boat this weekend.
I will get a shot of my 1" PVC pipes. I spaced them about every 2 feet along and over the top of the boom, and tied them in place with a hitch.
On each pipe I attached a line using a rolling hitch (2 wraps under and 1 wrap over) [url="http://www.animatedknots.com/rollinghitch/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com"]see here[/url].
I tied the end of each line down to the base of the stanchion or another deck fitting, and pulled the pipe down far enough to bend it nearly vertical. The pipe and the tarp give the appearance of a Quonset hut.
I loosely tied down the tarp using the eyelets, and I ran the lines under the bottom of the hull.
I made it a point NOT to attach the lines to my poppets (jackstands), as this can produce a very undesired result.
I'll take a few shots this coming weekend.

Edited by - on

craigacox
Deckhand

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USA
5 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2014 : 19:10:27

When we looked at the cost of shrink-wrapping we decided to make a cover ourselves, since this would also help us justify the purchase of our spiffy new Sailrite sewing machine. I can't testify that what we did was the best way, or even a "correct" way, but we will see after this winter.

We used Sur-Last fabric. From what someone said earlier, this may not be the best choice (since Sunbrella wasn't either), but that's water under the bridge now. We got 35 yards for $245 and have probably put in another $50-$100 for other supplies. The plan was to build the cover in two parts, mast-back and mast-forward, to allow easier handling of the parts. At this point, only the mast-back portion is done, and that is all that is likely to get done this winter. We live three hours from the boat, so being able to get a good day's work in means sleeping on the boat the night before. The last time there was a low-wind day that I could do this, it was below zero during the night and about 15 degrees during the day while I was working. As much as I would like to cover the mast forward, I'm not going to work on it again this winter.

We left the mast up and used it to create a "pup tent", as previously mentioned. I probably should have done the PVC pipes like Bruce mentioned, but didn't think about that. Bruce, is the concern that the boom will damage the fabric, or vice versa?

The advantage is that we have a custom cover that didn't cost that much, and which we are completely comfortable modifying if we need to. The disadvantage is that we have probably put 60-80 hours in it. However, since a goal was to develop sewing skills for future work, that offsets the disadvantage some. I estimate that I could replicate what I have done in 30-40 hours, so a lot was learned. It is a great way to get your feet wet on some sewing tasks. I found out after I started that Sailrite has a complete DVD on building a cover. That probably would have made things easier!

The actual fabric cost could have been lower, since we could have gotten away with fewer yards of the 60" wide fabric. When we ordered, we deliberately overestimated since we didn't know how much we would lose to waste, errors, mistaken assumptions, etc.

We have pics of the mast-back portion at http://www.reacomp.com/sailboat/winter_cover/index.html

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2014 : 19:33:48

Wow! Beautiful!

I have a suggestion. I used to tie my winter cover on like you do, with cord running under the hull, but I learned that the cord will leave dark, dirty lines in your gelcoat that you will have to rub out each spring. It makes my spring hull waxing much more difficult. This year I saw how a friend did it, and liked it. I gathered a bunch of empty plastic antifreeze jugs from the marina, filled each about 2/3 full of water, and hung one on each tie. Another friend has checked my boat periodically this winter and he says they're working great.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 01/25/2014 : 20:19:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by craigacox
 When we looked at the cost of shrink-wrapping we decided to make a cover ourselves, since this would also help us justify the purchase of our spiffy new Sailrite sewing machine. I can't testify that what we did was the best way, or even a "correct" way, but we will see after this winter.

We used Sur-Last fabric. From what someone said earlier, this may not be the best choice (since Sunbrella wasn't either), but that's water under the bridge now. We got 35 yards for $245 and have probably put in another $50-$100 for other supplies. The plan was to build the cover in two parts, mast-back and mast-forward, to allow easier handling of the parts. At this point, only the mast-back portion is done, and that is all that is likely to get done this winter. We live three hours from the boat, so being able to get a good day's work in means sleeping on the boat the night before. The last time there was a low-wind day that I could do this, it was below zero during the night and about 15 degrees during the day while I was working. As much as I would like to cover the mast forward, I'm not going to work on it again this winter.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5377 Posts

Response Posted - 01/26/2014 : 08:07:45

I use the PVC pipe every 15" to provide curvature and prevent hollows in the cover that allows the rain, snow and ice to fall off rather than pool up or build up. Never gave much thought to wear on the boom top due to the movement of the tarp - you're probably right. Weighting down the tarp with gallon jugs is good but I would still keep a few lines loosely tied under the boat in case of a big blow. I use a rolling hitch to gently snug the lines so there's an air space at the bottom of the tarp, and I remove the metal eyelets.

Edited by - on

pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2014 : 09:58:16

Many know I have used the large single 20' x 30' tarp suspended from a raised mast for years. It has served me well for long term winter storage in my yard. This year I wanted to try something different but have waited until now to judge the results. I always use a cabin cover on my boats, this year I decided to leave that tarp in place laying on the cabin top and add small area tarps other places to make up a patchwork cover that would handle snow and rain loads according to the area... A large aft tarp from a high mast to allow a good angle over the cockpit but a smaller tarp closer to the deck on the bow. As it turned out I used two tarps on the bow, one cloth and one plastic over the cloth one, when snow chances are over I will remove the plastic woven tarp and just use the Sunbrella one. The large aft tarp has done a good job and partially because I decided to allow an adjustment, if the snow is too heavy I release the starboard aft bungie allowing the snow to go into the cockpit but still stay off the rest of the boat. A cockpit is easy to clean and water tight. Anyway I am please with the ease of access, protection of the deck and general performance this "system" has provided. (Also a sun shade tarp on the stern that faces the West and note the winch covers on my masthead and stern light.) Anyhoo, this is an alternative to big covers that I tried this year and will use again.

Edited by - pastmember on 01/27/2014 10:03:47

Ka-Boom
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts

Response Posted - 01/27/2014 : 11:03:04

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Voyager
 Hey Ka-Boom!
I'm just seeing your question now (about 1 month late). I plan on being at the boat this weekend.
I will get a shot of my 1" PVC pipes. I spaced them about every 2 feet along and over the top of the boom, and tied them in place with a hitch.
On each pipe I attached a line using a rolling hitch (2 wraps under and 1 wrap over) [url="http://www.animatedknots.com/rollinghitch/index.php?Categ=boating&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com"]see here[/url].
I tied the end of each line down to the base of the stanchion or another deck fitting, and pulled the pipe down far enough to bend it nearly vertical. The pipe and the tarp give the appearance of a Quonset hut.
I loosely tied down the tarp using the eyelets, and I ran the lines under the bottom of the hull.
I made it a point NOT to attach the lines to my poppets (jackstands), as this can produce a very undesired result.
I'll take a few shots this coming weekend.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

We went with a boat cover from ShipShape Canvas after weighing the cost of shrink wrap and after an unsuccessful attempt with tarps.
The upside of the tarp attempt was that we used the PVC pipes and 2x4 to construct a diagonal strut in the bow. We didn't add the recommended stern support (possibly next year).

Edited by - Ka-Boom on 01/27/2014 11:05:50

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