Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I do not care for my kick-up rudder. If a kick-up is not completely down by even a few degrees the helm gets very heavy. I am not impressed with the mechanism on the rudder, it uses an eye strap on the rudder and a line lead to a cleat on the tiller.The line up through the grommet in the tiller is the down haul. I cannot get the rudder vertical with the line so I have to use a boat hook and push down on the up-=haul eye strap to get the last few degrees and feel the system is susceptible to stretch and slip. I feel like a pin system would be difficult to get aligned adequately during the modification process to guarantee the perfect angle and would require a sleeve to be epoxied into the rudder to be done right.
Mine has a shear pin that holds it down unless I run the rudder into a rock. I don't have a photo but, it's located aft of the pivot pin through the metal plates on both sides of the rudder.
Rudder Craft uses a gas strut mounted to pins on the rudder head and the blade, positioned so that the strut compresses as the blade passes from full up to full down, and extends in those two positions. You could put your engineering cap on and figure out the two pin locations and strut size... But if the rudder very rarely touches anything, the shear pin is probably simplest.
On our C-22 the kick-up rudder would slip up slightly in heavy weather. In order to hold it fully down, we drilled a 1/4" hole through the metal plates and rudder. At first we used a long quick releaase pull pin, but that bent one day when we went aground. Now we use a short piece of 1/4" wood dowel, with several spares on board for back-up. The wood dowel will hold the rudder blade in place, and if we ground hard, it will shear off and can be replaced easily. On your rudder, I would drill the hole forward of and level with the pivot pin.
Yes I sail a Starwind 223. I am a little concerned about "crushing" the fiberglass on the rudder if I crank the bolt but that might be the place to start.
on my 16 ft daysailer, I have a pair of springs that are attached on one end to the metal section and the other end to the rudder. The springs contract when the rudder is full up, or full down. When 1/2 way, the spring if fully extended. If you look at a Laser or Sunfish, you'll see a similar arrangement. Take a look at this brief [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iB5bsoH6zY"] video [/url].
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.