Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The bolt right above the head where the lower shroud attaches is leaking in a rainstorm.Can I loosen this bolt and pull it out to rebed the attachment point without causing the mast to move to much. How does it come out,pull the beauty cover off the the top and undue the large nut inside and pull up? Would 4200 be good to try to reseal the area?
The other leak is from the aluminum frame window above the head. How do these come out? Can you pull all the interior screws and this will let the window come out? The previous owner ran a thick bead of silicone on the inside of the frames and on the outside,does not look good and leaks. What is the proper way to seal these I doubt I could use the cd kit with the rubber seals because he filled the whole channel with the silicone.
You're right on the chainplate removal. Rebed it with Lifecaulk, polysufide, not 4200. Polyurethanes are for boat building, not bedding. Remove some core material with a Dremel or a bent nail in a drill. Remove all wet core material. Put masking tape on the bottom of the hole and fill it with epoxy. Re-drill the hole after it cures and countersink the top. Overfill the counter sunk area with polysulfide when you reassemble and don't tighten the nut until the bedding cures - a week if it is reasonably warm. That approach creates a conical gasket that will compress and really seal the hole when you tighten the nut.
The windows do come out by removing all the interior screws and working the exterior frame free with a couple of putty knives. You will probably want the CD kit, but take a window out first to see just what you're going to face. I covered the openings with plywood while I spent several weeks working on the frames. Old silicone will often peel off metal, but the original bedding is nasty, sticky, non-hardening stuff. It is a job.
The windows are Lewmars, get advice from Lewmar support. The forward chainplate can be repair with no fear of the mast doing anything... as long as the forestay is still attached LOL. You can remove any single attachment point of the standing rigging and the mast will stay up just fine, so you can work your way around the boat rebedding all the chainplates, backstay tangs and the stem fitting.
Are you windows like these '89 windows? I tossed the trim rings and preferred the aluminum look.
Thanks for the tips. I had a feeling the mast would be ok just wanted to make sure. Do I have to loosen the turnbuckle topside and count the turns before I loosen the nut on the inside? Do I remove the wire shroud from the mounting point first? I also do not have the metal bracket under the shroud to spread the load like in the picture.
The Windows I have do not look anything like the window that was posted.Mine almost looks like the frame is separated in the middle,almost as if the window was suppose to slide open.
New owner of this boat so thanks for all the advice so far guys.
The angle under the chainplate is the new upgrade and what I would use if I were going to the trouble of rebedding the chainplate. You might as well use the newer stronger backing plate. Yes loosen the turnbuckle and remove the toggle from the chainplate and let the shroud just hang there. Check out this info http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=37&ParentCat=39 It seems you may need to call Catalina Yachts and see if they have my backing plate. Since your windows do not open but you have an '88 I would compare the sizes between the Lewmar opening window above and your leaking windows and if you need to pull the windows to fix them then why not put ventilation in your boat with these? Mine never leaked and were great to have.
Your should upgrade your chainplates as the older boats had under designed chainplates... heck mack your own backing plate but make sure your bolt is good. We have had a thread about SS internal corrosion and those were the bolts that were the focus of the thread.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.