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anchor retrieval method?

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Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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USA
191 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/09/2013 : 07:45:27

Do any of you use a float with a slide ring around the rode to pull your anchor up? If not, what method do you use? Thanks, Chief

COMPASS ROSE C250WK
Tall Mast, Wing keel
PORT CHIEF, Bodega Bay Ca.
IE,EE,FCC lic #1890

Edited by - Chief RA on 12/09/2013 07:46:43

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 08:09:47

I use a little toggle switch that says "Up" and "Down".

(Sorry--couldn't help myself.)

I've heard about the ring-and-buoy method but never tried it--sounds interesting... [url="http://www.anchorpullers.com/"]Here's a description.[/url]

It seems to me the method should be used with the rode on the opposite side of the boat from the outboard, since the outboard is offset behind the keel.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 12/09/2013 08:15:22

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 08:35:53

I'm not familiar with the "float with a slide ring." How does it work?

All the boats I have sailed or crewed on, up to 44', just break the anchor free by different methods (usually by using the engine), and then pull in the rode and chain hand-over-hand. A couple of my older friends have a power windlass to help them raise the anchor when they're singlehanding on a hot, humid day, but I haven't opted for one yet.

edit: Thanks for the link Dave. It's an interesting system, and it might be a help for some, but for one who frequently singlehands, I'd be afraid the slack anchor line might get tangled in something while I was away from the helm and before I could get it hauled in. I might see it differently if I had an opportunity to see it actually in use.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 12/09/2013 08:49:10

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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USA
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 08:37:01

Wow! I've learned something already on this forum! I have used this system but it never occured to me to use it on my crab traps! Thanks, Chief

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 09:44:42

I'd say you might need a lot of "running room" to perform this maneuver--could be tricky with other boats anchored in the area. It seems you'll need to get some speed on (the description suggests 5 knots) to get the rode, especially the chain, running through the ring--enough so the buoy applies some significant drag. If you have crew, you might want to take in most of the scope before starting this maneuver, if only to minimize the running room you need.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 09:56:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 ...but for one who frequently singlehands, I'd be afraid the slack anchor line might get tangled in something while I was away from the helm and before I could get it hauled in.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Since the anchor has been set by the boat pulling down-wind or down-current, this manuever will basically be in the up-wind direction, leaving the boat to windward of the float and the raised anchor. I suspect after the anchor has been pulled up to the float, you'd want to back around to one side, say ~90 deg., so you can drift toward and even past the float as you haul in the rode, without drifting over it. As I said, you probably need some room.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 12/09/2013 09:57:29

Steve Milby
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 10:44:10

It's beginning to sound like a lot of hassle to raise a 10-12 lb. anchor and some chain. It might be worthwhile with a bigger, heavier boat and ground tackle. I'm also thinking, though, that I would be uncomfortable with the idea of motoring my boat (about 13,000 lbs) at 5 kts against a well-set anchor. If the anchor got stubborn and didn't break out right away, it could put a sideways load on the anchor roller that might be enough to bend it or otherwise damage it. If I really needed help raising the anchor, I think I'd go for a power windlass, even though it would be more expensive. (The older I get, the more I am influenced by the thought that "You can't take it with you."

)

Edited by - on

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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191 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 11:02:26

While I am plenty strong enough to hand haul the anchor I would prefer not to as long as I have another effective retrieval method. I sure do not want a electric wench on a Cat 250! One of my anchors is 18 lbs w/ probably 20' of chain so would definately prefer to not pull in 100' of that unless necessary! I have used the ring and float on a 13lb anchor and it worked great. Once its floating you just hand over hand it right up to the boat and you have her in. Way faster than a manual haul in! Sounds like most of you guys do not use this method. Thanks, Chief

Edited by - on

shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 11:41:09

I guess I am silly...
I usually drive over the anchor, pulling along the way.
If it's particularly hard to come up, I walk bow forward, while positioning the boat directly over the anchor... Then I cleat it off, and walk aft... waves, and the sudden rise of the bow (when I walk aft) usually pulls the beast out of the worst garbage.
13lb anchor and 15 feet of chain, and 100 feet of rode. The buoy seems like a hassle for our small boats. ON a larger boat, an electric windlass makes sense.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/09/2013 : 18:46:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by shnool
 ON a larger boat, an electric windlass makes sense.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Yup! ...although mine is only about 2' larger.

It's sorta like a roller furler--once I've had it, I can't go back!

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islander
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Response Posted - 12/10/2013 : 17:09:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I use a little toggle switch that says "Up" and "Down".<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Gee Dave, Hope you don't get a blister on your finger....

Edited by - on

Ape-X
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 04:58:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by islander
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I use a little toggle switch that says "Up" and "Down".<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Gee Dave, Hope you don't get a blister on your finger....

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

classic song: .....maybe get a blister on your thumb.........

Edited by - on

redeye
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 05:26:33

<< 5 kts against a well-set anchor. >>

they used this method a lot at the beach ( panama city beach, gulf coast, for the smaller offshore bottom fishing boats ) but it is a flat sand bottom ..

80-140 feet... mate goes to the front and pulls up the anchor to check to see if it is free ( clips on the ring I guess ) and then they drive the boat till the chain pulls through the ring. I've seen them do it a few times but I've never done it.

So they manually pull it up off the ground first. It is a job haulin that anchor up from 100 feet.

I've never seen this used on a sailboat, they usually anchor in shallow water.

Edited by - redeye on 12/11/2013 05:27:28

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 06:10:16

Personally, I just pull forward with a slight loop around at slow speed and pop the anchor loose when the Danforth flops over. Once I know its loose I speed up to walk it up the rode until the chain holds it on the float at the surface. Now its easy to pull in the floating anchor. We may anchor our sailboats in relatively shallow water but many times due to 7:1 scope we too have out 100' of rode. This is a superb retrieval method for 10 to 20 lb anchors! Chief

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 09:15:27

Around here, I think I'd want to take in some scope while approaching the anchor, and then re-cleat to perform the maneuver. The reason is that we have rocks and other "stuff" that could catch a dragging anchor and re-set it suddenly. At 5 knots, that could be disastrous unless the scope is so short that the anchor is pulled up quickly off the bottom. Hauling up the slack nylon rode shouldn't be much harder than hauling it in later, although it would require a mate.

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 12/11/2013 09:17:24

Chief RA
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 10:28:45

I sure do not know why everyone keeps insisting on goin' 5 knots! Not me, I do as I already posted. Realize that once loose, that anchor will rise as a float is lifting it, so drag is minimal and anchor is in upward pitch angle as the rode draws upward through the floats ring. Try it and you will probably be impressed.
Dave: The float is already taking up your slack for you as you move the boat, plus it will eventually pull almost straight up on the anchor.
Chief

Edited by - Chief RA on 12/11/2013 10:45:14

Sloop Smitten
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 11:32:00

Chief,
The link that Dave provided mentioned 5 knots so that is what is being referred to. I would think you would need a little speed to overcome the tendency for the float to just drag behind the boat. There must be a certain speed needed to allow the float to overcome the friction between the clip and the rode. Otherwise the friction would just drag the float.

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 12:16:43

Yes, I was going on the article and my suspicion some drag from the float is necessary to get the rode to pull through while lifting the anchor, until enough chain has passed through to outweigh it. Some speed is necessary... But I admit I haven't tried it, and probably won't since I have that magic toggle switch.

Edited by - on

Ape-X
Admiral

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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 15:07:58

I am not following: What is breaking the anchor free? If the loop is slipping on the rode, is it simply by driving forward of the anchoR pulling it out?

We drive up the rode, hauling in as we come forward. Coasting up to a near vertical position then, I will hold the rode tight against the pulpit or cleat, allowing wave action to pull the anchor off the bottom.

Edited by - on

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 16:42:20

Ape-X: The float pulls the anchor off the bottom and the anchor continues up to the float due to boats momentum. There is virtually no drag on the ring as it is a big 6" stainless steel unit. When you proceed back over the anchor with the boat the float immediately slides as far back as it can down the rode until its flotation and boats momentum lifts the anchor off the bottom and up to the float where the counterweight of the chain makes it stay.
All you have to do to test this is hook a large U bolt over your rode and tie your fenders to the U bolt or whatever you use for a slide ring. If you have enough flotation it will pick your anchor right up! Its simple!
Iam not trying to screw with you guys, Iam trying to help with an easy anchor retrieval system for you to use! Chief

Edited by - Chief RA on 12/11/2013 16:51:20

Chief RA
Chief Technical Advisor

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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 17:05:30

I think it might be appropriate to say that even though I have just joined your club, I have been sailing for about 35 years and have a lot of experience in both lakes and ocean. Chief

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 18:22:15

Please don't think we're doubting or challenging you. Not having seen it, other than the diagrams in the piece I posted, some of us are trying to understand it. I don't doubt that it works...

My understanding is that once the anchor is broken loose, in order to raise it to the float, the float must resist forward motion somewhat so the rode is forced to slide through the ring. At less than one knot, it would seem the anchor would slide along the bottom, the rode almost vertical, and the float would remain in its position on the rode, moving with the boat because there is negligible drag against it. At some speed (?), the float will drag in the water with enough force to slide back on the rode and, through its floatation, lift the anchor. At some point, enough chain pulls through the ring that it's weight finishes the job and holds the anchor at the ring. It would seem the float could not lift the anchor without some drag that effectively pulls it away from the boat.

Edited by - on

Chief RA
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 18:34:27

Yes, my only problem with speed was that initially it is not necessary to go very fast. You can adjust your speed based on how the float reacts. Once the float starts pulling the anchor upward then you may need to increase speed but I am sure I only pull at a few knots as the water creates heavy drag quickly on the float. Once up, just stop and pull it in. Hope we have it! Chief

Edited by - on

Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 18:48:37

I think I've got it...

You haven't seen one of our real, prolonged winter debates, like the one a few years ago about whether water ballast had to be lifted above the outside water level to impart any righting force. ...or some of our discussions on weather helm. Things can get animated when everyone's listless! (Actually, we're relatively civil here.)

Edited by - on

Chief RA
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 20:07:15

I try not to get too brusk and direct but as you can imagine it is tough for me because I served 21 years in the military. I think we tend to be pretty blunt after so many years and especially attaining the rank of Chief Warrant Officer as I did. I served as a Electronic Maintenance Officer for the US Army. Later, Chief

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
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Response Posted - 12/11/2013 : 22:16:19

Thanks for your 21 years, Chief.

One day I hailed a bridge operator: "Mystic rail, Mystic rail, this is Sarge..." asking for an opening. After he explained when he would be able to open (for some reason trains have right-of-way over green boats), he added, "You might get better service if you called yourself Chief."

I still assume his distinction referred to CPO and his own service. BTW, that vessel name is not meant to indicate any connection between me and the Army or Marines--there's a family story... (too long.)

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 12/11/2013 22:20:56

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