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 Any outboard experts out there? 9.9 merc oil press
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LVjimmy
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Initially Posted - 01/11/2014 :  10:30:29  Show Profile
I have a 2007 9.9 mercury that has zero oil pressure. it still starts and idles fine. It has been run at least 20 minutes with the oil pressure light on maybe much longer. I find it hard to believe that the motor doesn't have oil pressure and continues to run. Does anyone have any ideas what would stop oil from reaching the sender?

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/11/2014 :  17:48:46  Show Profile
First let me say that I'm not a certified mechanic but I am mechanical so take this all with a grain of salt... If this were my engine I would safely assume that you do have oil pressure otherwise the engine would have seized in under 2 min. run time. This would leave two culprits, Worn gears in the oil pump or a failed pressure sender. I'm assuming you don't have an oil pressure gauge to read the actual pressure so what you can try is draining the oil and putting in a higher (thicker) viscosity oil to see if the light goes out. The thicker oil will raise the oil pressure if the gears are worn in the oil pump. If the light still remains on with the thicker oil then I would guess its the pressure sender that has failed. The sender is a simple switch that is closed when there is no oil pressure(light on) When you start the engine oil pressure should force the switch open (light off). I would assume that the switch is stuck in the closed position. Good luck.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  07:21:06  Show Profile
This is a brand new boat to me, my first boat. on my first trip out I noticed the red light on and asked two "boat" people who said that it was nothing. I still turned the engine off as soon as I was clear of the marina. turned it back on to get it back into the marina. looked up online that it is an oil pressure light. I checked the level and it was at the top of the cross hatch pattern with some very clean oil. I pulled the motor and took it home thinking it was just the sending unit. I pulled the sending unit and hooked up a brand new gauge which after 30 seconds still said "0". Think that maybe the gauge was broken I pulled the gauge out and started the engine. No oil came out of the sender port.
As of yesterday I was unable to figure out where to drain the oil. The obvious both on the side of the housing didn't produce any oil when pulled. I pulled the power head, much easier than expected, and rooted around in the oil sump until I found the deepest part figuring that had to be the drain and corresponded to the "obvious" drain hole. I pulled the drain plug again and shoved a pick inside digging out lots of black powder and eventually some very thick sludge. 20 minutes later I managed to get all of the slug out and the drain hole clear. I then figured out the the tube sticking up from the sump was the oil strainer that was plugged and not connected to the power head. I can't be sure that the tube wasn't attached to the power head before I pulled the power head.
I have ordered the parts, including the oil pump, to re assemble it thinking that it was rattling I may get lucky and have it survive besides that I'm from Las Vegas and I would rather gamble $200 in parts against buying a $3300 motor.
Thanks for your help and I will post what the final outcome is.

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Buzz Maring
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  08:57:10  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LVjimmy</i>
<br />... besides that I'm from Las Vegas and I would rather gamble $200 in parts against buying a $3300 motor.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">


Please do let us know the outcome ... GOOD LUCK!

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  09:05:15  Show Profile
Sorry to hear this, Sounds like the PO never changed the oil and the engine is plugged up with sludge. I got a snow blower from a neighbor who said the engine was seized. Took it home and soaked the piston with penetrating oil for a few days and was able to work the piston free. The reason for the seizing was the same as yours, Sludge. I used cheep oil and a few ounces of carb cleaner and ran this mixture in the engine for 5min then drained the oil. I did this for 5-6 times until the oil ran clean then finally filled it with synthetic oil. Also needed a new float in the carb and a spark plug. So for about $30 I now have a nice 2 stage snow blower. With a little luck and effort an engine can be brought back from the dead.

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  09:41:31  Show Profile
I don't mean to come across the wrong way, but based solely on what was stated above, doesn't it seem stange that someone that's never owned a boat before would tear apart an outboard motor (including removing the power-head) before at least consulting an outboard mechanic?

It seems like this issue would have been noticed while test sailing the boat before purchasing it.

Not saying it didn't happen as described, just seems extreme to tear apart a motor you just bought with the boat without at least checking with a mechanic.

Edited by - GaryB on 01/12/2014 09:42:03
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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  12:18:53  Show Profile
Before I did anything I ordered two manuals. I have some automotive background including rebuilding carbs, engines and transmissions. On the test sail the motor started right up and sounded fine. The broker is the one who operated the motor on the test sail and he has a great reputation around here. My fault for not checking things out better. Oil was clean and it ran well. That is all I checked on the motor. Thanks for the Good Luck Wishes

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panhead1948
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  12:33:51  Show Profile
Are you sure that the light indicates no oil pressure. On my Honda the light on means I have oil pressure.

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  13:54:56  Show Profile
Mercurys are opposite to the Honda. Hondas green light is on = good. Mercurys red light on = no good.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  15:16:15  Show Profile
The manual says that the light comes on when the oil pressure drops below 3.7psi. Oil pressure gauge says zero and no oil comes out the sender port. I think it is now safe to say that there is no oil pressure.

Is there any problem with running regular automotive oil to flush out the mercury?

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  20:04:38  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LVjimmy</i>
<br />Before I did anything I ordered two manuals. I have some automotive background including rebuilding carbs, engines and transmissions. On the test sail the motor started right up and sounded fine. The broker is the one who operated the motor on the test sail and he has a great reputation around here. My fault for not checking things out better. Oil was clean and it ran well. That is all I checked on the motor. Thanks for the Good Luck Wishes
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I figured there must be more to your background than was mentioned. That's why I made the comment "based solely on what was stated above".

My Suzuki is like your Mercury. If the light comes on there is low or no oil pressure. My '89 is a 2 cycle and is oil injected. I assume by your comments yours is a 4 cycle and has an oil sump with the associated oil pump.

If the oil injection pump on mine goes out or the filter gets clogged the light will come on.

Hope things work out for you and there is no major internal damage.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/12/2014 :  21:02:19  Show Profile
Thanks

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/13/2014 :  06:06:23  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Is there any problem with running regular automotive oil to flush out the mercury?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No problem, Could the sender port be plugged up with sludge preventing you from getting any pressure reading? Can you run a wire down into the port to clear it? I'm assuming you cleaned the screen on the pick-up tube and re-installed the tube.

Edited by - islander on 01/13/2014 06:21:05
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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/13/2014 :  12:17:17  Show Profile
I didn't see any blockage to the sender port but will try and run a brush through all the passages before reinstalling the power head.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/19/2014 :  13:16:30  Show Profile
I have received all my parts and will start the reassembly today. I do have a few questions.
1. What is a plunger? It looks like an oil pressure regulator to me but I have been unable to find out anything about it. I ordered a new one anyway.
2. I was planning on flushing the engine oil 4 times with cheap oil and Sea foam before I do the final fill with Mobil 1. Does anyone have and Pros or Cons with using Mobil 1 in the outboard?

Thanks,

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GaryB
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Response Posted - 01/19/2014 :  18:36:22  Show Profile
I used Mobil 1 exclusively in my SeaRay. After 500+ hours running it hard (as in a lot of long wide open runs) I had it torn down. When they miked the crankshaft they said it had virtually no wear on it.

Outboards are a lot different. I'm not sure how it would work in an outboard but my experience with a 350 Chevy and a sterndrive was excellent.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/19/2014 :  21:37:49  Show Profile
I have used Mobil 1 on all my automotive engines for many years. The Mercury manual says the oil should meet "SM" and Mobil 1 does that so I'm not sure if I'm missing something else that would prevent me from using it.

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/20/2014 :  13:15:14  Show Profile
As long as the oil your using meets the ASI requirements printed on the bottle for your engine (I think its up to SN) and you have the correct weight you can use any brand that you favor. I'm sure SN covers your 2007 engine. You don't have to use oil sold in a marine store or labeled "Marine", It's the same oil just re-branded.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/24/2014 :  08:01:14  Show Profile
I pulled apart the old oil pump and it did have a little bit of clean oil it. I'm assuming it was getting the oil just from the oil sloshing around and not from the pick up.
Installed the new oil pump, strainer, and plunger,I still don't know what the plunge does, and flushed the motor 3 times with cheap automotive 10W-30 oil and 2 oz of sea foam. It now has 58 psi of oil pressure and sounds good.

A note for anyone with one of these motors. Mercury says not to use a pump to drain the oil. I'm assuming that was the problem with this motor is the pump couldn't pick up all the crap from the bottom of the sump and there isn't an oil filter to pull the crap out of the oil so it just builds up in the bottom until it plugs the strainer.

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islander
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Response Posted - 01/24/2014 :  17:07:49  Show Profile
Glad to hear this. Now just to be on the safe side I would change the oil again in about 15-20 hrs of run time. Check the oil by wiping the dip stick on a white paper towel to see if it is getting dirty fast. There might be still some grunge inside.

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LVjimmy
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Response Posted - 01/25/2014 :  22:29:54  Show Profile
I'll keep checking it. Thanks everyone

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Voyager
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Response Posted - 01/26/2014 :  07:40:44  Show Profile
Glad to hear you were able to save your motor. if you caught it in time, you can still get many years of service out of it. But, without oil pressure you gotta know some damage has been done to the combustion parts, shaft bearings or anything north of the bottom unit can be affected.
Signs of permanent engine wear include blue smoke when you start up until the engine warms up, play in the valves that can change engine timing (runs a little rough), excessive vibration at certain speeds (resonance) and noisy operations. For the first few weeks & months check your oil level frequently and check your spark plugs for oil fouling.
Luckily you caught it in time.

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