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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
$11.99 for a caulk tube $12.51 for shipping vs $19 if I buy it locally
It's a good deal for locals.
There is only one valid place for me to consider using 5200, and that is for sealing the hull/deck joint. I did one side of my Pearson 28-2 early last fall and want to do the other side of the boat this spring. It takes about 1 tube of 5200 to seal the whole thing (and about 2 days worth of work).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">There is only one valid place for me to consider using 5200<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> How about... Keeping your Toupee on Fixing those loose Dentures Keeping an unruly child in his seat Fixing a blow out on your Flip-Flop...
What amazes me is that the last time I was in WM, looking for 4200, there wasn't any and they said it was being discontinued, but they had a shelf full of 5200. I bought 2-3 other things I "needed", and left the store without the caulk I went there for.
I just used 5200 to put teak down on fiberglass. My bridgedeck is too shallow to sit on and I like to have a sitable bridgdeck so I am mounting a teak and holly step as a seat. I considered drilling and through bolting but decided this was the best route.
Step 1 was clean the fiberglass with finger nail polish remover, and rough up the teak with 80 grit.
Step two put the 5200 in a pattern that will not escape the board I am mounting.
Finally I put a light sandbag on the step and will let it set up, I expect the step to be very solid as a seat.
...and if you ever want to pull it up in a few years for refinishing or whatever, some of the gelcoat will probably come with it. I speak from experience.
It is solid teak with holly strips that stick up as non-skid. Because of your unswerving support of this project it shall be known as the Bristle. As in "hey, nice Bristle, mind if I sit?"
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />It is solid teak with holly strips that stick up as non-skid. Because of your unswerving support of this project it shall be known as the Bristle. As in "hey, nice Bristle, mind if I sit?" <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Love your brightwork, Frank! The only thing I won't swerve on is my disdain for 5200 for anything other than permanent structural joints. I had, a few choice words for the builder of my current vessel, who used it as a bedding compound. 10 yard penalty for holding!
I just hope that you will have a similar smile on your face when you toss things into a hopper as I will have when people sit on my bristle. The brightwork is a companionway step from a high end motor boat and was one of my better "search:teak" events on ebay some years ago. I miss when stuff was actually on ebay. 60s yesterday, 16 now, I hope the 5200 cured over the two nice days.
Really Frank.. glue. I didn't think anything would get oily teak to stick, and you can't really clamp it together. Will water get below it and freeze and pop it off?
Well.. let us know if the Bristle pops off, hope no one is standing on it when it does...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.