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 battery switch
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dasreboot
Admiral

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804 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/03/2014 :  06:52:25  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
new boat EOWYN. I was doing some electrical upgrades and noticed that there were no battery cables going to the battery switch just 10 awg wire. it appears that the PPO just used the switch to control power to the switch panel. outboard starting and charging go straight through to one of the two batteries.
I've always wired the batteries through the switch. Anyone else seen this?

Todd Lewis
Eowyn 87 TR/WK C25 #5656
ARWEN 84 TR/SK C25 #4031
www.mainsailsailingschool.com

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2014 :  10:13:50  Show Profile
Have to say no. When my switch is off, everything is off. The downside is that I could inadvertently switch the batteries off while the engine is running and damage the charging circuit. An upside is that I can charge either battery from the motor or single output charger.

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jduck00
Captain

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USA
313 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2014 :  10:45:35  Show Profile
I wired mine similar to the PO of your boat. The battery switch powers the 12V breakers. One of those is the alternator on the motor. I have two voltage meters, and a spot for two battery chargers. I only have one battery in atm. The voltage meters and the battery chargers are connected, electrically, directly to the battery. I actaully connected them to the battery post on the switch. Both of the direct connections are fused.

Forgot about the bilge pump. The bilge pump panel is directly connected as well. Still working ideas in my head for connecting one pump to two different batteries. May just install a second pump. I like redundancy on things that keep the boat from sinking.

I like having two meters. When I put the second battery in, I will be able to see the voltage on each battery before switching them.


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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2014 :  10:52:20  Show Profile
The issue in using a 1-2-B switch is whether or not you use the switch as both a charging source switch AND a use switch or just a use switch (by routing the charging source to the house bank and using an echo charger or ACR to charge the other bank or use the B position on the switch to do that).

Here's a longer discussion using inboard engines but the concept is the same for an outboard with an alternator):

Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6604.0.html

This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615

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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 03/03/2014 :  11:42:52  Show Profile
My chargers have always gone to the batteries leaving the switch as a "use" switch.

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dasreboot
Admiral

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804 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2014 :  05:55:47  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
i might just leave it like it is until next season. Id rather have the starter go through the switch, but It was not in the schedule or budget for this year.

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kc5dlo
1st Mate

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USA
71 Posts

Response Posted - 03/04/2014 :  08:02:21  Show Profile
I chose to wire the Outboard direct to battery 1 via a 40 amp circuit breaker. I did not want to take a chance damaging the charging system on the outboard by accidentally switching the switch to off with the engine running. I usually switch to both batteries while motoring to top off both batteries.
Originally I used battery mounted marine fuses for the outboard. I might have not had a high enough rated fuse or let the voltage in the battery get to low but I did blow a couple of fuses. Found a auto reset 40 amp circuit breaker for trolling motors and used that and I am very happy with the set up.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5383 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2014 :  06:47:44  Show Profile
Having burnt out my outboard charging circuit by unknowingly flipping the switch while the engine was running, I modified the circuit to have a direct-connection between the battery and engine with a 60A fuse and a separate switched and fused house circuit for everything else. I replaced the components in the Honda OB good as new.
If I add a 2nd battery I'd probably buy 2 new ones and hook them up in parallel with a fuse in between. I'm distrustful of electro-mechanical and thermal-reset circuit breakers in a marine environment since corrosion never sleeps and mechanisms jam.

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2014 :  15:50:25  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Voyager</i>
<br />
If I add a 2nd battery I'd probably buy 2 new ones and hook them up in parallel with a fuse in between. I'm distrustful of electro-mechanical and thermal-reset circuit breakers in a marine environment since corrosion never sleeps and mechanisms jam.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

FWIW, the Yandina combiner, originally marketed by WM, has a LIFETIME warranty. The company is still in business and does replace faulty units. This is, the units rarely, if ever fail. I've had one on my boat since 1998. Maine Sail broke one of the plastic dogs off of one, and Anne, I think her name is, replaced it without asking.

The echo chargers have also proven very hardy, about the ONLY piece of equipment that Xantrex makes that HASN'T failed, but only because Xantrex hasn't messed with it and are still producing the original Heart equipment!!! :):):)

I'm not so sold on the Blue Sea ACRs, personally, but Maine Sail speaks highly of them.

And, as my links above note, the B position of the switch is there fore backup or primary use.

Just do as Bruce did and route your engine output to one or the other of your batteries. It's no more wiring, and avoids the very issue Bruce mentioned.

One doesn't need a fuse between the batteries. The fuse(s) are required on the battery outputs.

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 03/05/2014 15:51:54
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