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Head/Tank Installation (One Last Time)

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rcraig
1st Mate

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USA
28 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/17/2003 : 19:44:40

OK All.....This is IT....I'm gonna do it..

I've got the head located & bolted into place, and the tank in-location and soon to be secured under the port dinette seat. I just have to ask one last time (since I lost the thread):

Any words of wisdom or woe on the final plumbing, macerator,
or (gasp) new thru-hull installation for this system ??

The boat's a '77 FK/SR w/ the L-shaped dinette to port. The plan is
to plumb in such a fashion as to have a) a seawater pick-up or
intake for flush filling b) a deckside (or decktop) fitting for
pump-out and c) a macerator / thru-hull for offshore discharge.

I have resigned to the fact that I AM going to put holes in this thing, below the waterline. My main concern at this point is where to put them. As mentioned, the tank is to port and there is still open space under the dinette seat which is against the bulkhead - remember L-shaped. Thought was to have both the pick-up & macerator / discharge thru-hulls in that same relative area. Does this sound at all logical ? What have others done about placement of thru-hulls ?

If I think this thru anymore I might as well re-install the porta-potti, so this is it. Within the next couple weekends I want to come back w/ glowing tales of success !!! As always, input form this sage & learned group is appreciated.

Best to all.....

Richard C.
77 FK/SR (asyet to be named)

P.S. - Anyone come up w/ a handy method of draining the rain from the chain locker up on the bow ??

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 02/17/2003 : 19:59:14

The chain/anchor locker on the bow has (or should have) a small drain hole at the front, just small enough that anything bigger than a gnat seems to clog it. Poke a wire through it and it'll flow until the next gnat.

I have a marine head in my Cat 25. All it has is an intake off the forward through/to hull and, from the holding tank, a vent and pump-out fitting on the deck near the shrouds. Simple and effective. Minimal holes through the hull.

How often will you be three miles off shore to use the macerator and discharge valve?

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290

Edited by - on

10timesSaltier
1st Mate

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80 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2003 : 15:08:51

I have to agree with John. I installed a head and tank last spring. Total holes: 2. One for the vent, one for the pump-out.

Brian.
Great Salt Lake (10-times saltier than the ocean)
"SAFARI", C25 TR-FK #2275

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/18/2003 : 16:27:13

Richard C.,
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Anyone come up w/ a handy method of draining the rain from the chain locker up on the bow ??<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>Yeah. I replaced the factory installed soda straw drain with about 1/2" PVC. I attached the short piece of rigid SCH40PVC to the locker pan with 3M 5200 or similar. I left the tube about 1/2" long outside, and faired it into the stem area with epoxy. I then finished off the exterior with matching gelcoat. The result looks like it was made that way. My philosophy on water in the anchor locker is don't bother trying to stop it from getting in, just be sure it can get back out fast without leaking into the interior of the boat, even while heeled.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Any words of wisdom or woe on the final [head] plumbing, macerator?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>Keep in mind that the consequences of a screw up could be really unpleasant!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> Briefly, here's how I did mine. <ul><li>Raritan PH-II head.</li><li>Head inlet hose connected to head sink drain with a T-fitting below the waterline.</li><li>Vented loop in hose between head pump and bowl rim.</li><li>16gal 3/8" thick custom holding tank under V-berth.</li><li>All high priced odor proof hoses.</li><li>Double hose clamps anywhere that could sink the boat or release waste into the bilge.</li><li>Two 1" tank vent hoses to Marlon thru-hulls near whale eye lights.</li><li>Bronze thru-hulls and ball valve seacocks below the waterline with shaped teak backing blocks.</li><li>Waste rated diaphram offshore tank discharge pump, inlet into 1-1/2" deck pump out hose with T-fitting. (Offshore pump straight through, deck hose on leg of T-fitting.)</li>
<li>Locker containing holding tank sealed off from rest of bilge.</li>
</ul>
If you haven't studied the writings of Peggie Hall, the Head Mistress, I urge you to do so. They used to be archived on the Catalina Owner's website, but I don't see them there now. She has a book coming out very soon, so she may have finally decided to stop giving away incredably valuable info for free. You could e-mail her. [url="mailto:peghall@sbcglobal.net"]Peggie Hall's e-mail.[/url]

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... new thru-hull installation for this system?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>I've replaced several thru-hulls, move one, and added two. Once you get over the initial emotional trauma of cutting a huge new hole in your pride and joy below the waterline, the rest is rather simple. Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" has an excellent section on good, bad, and ugly thru-hull installations. (His worst case example is still better than the Catalina factory "to-hull".)

Let us know if you have additional questions. Good luck!<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/19/2003 : 08:40:58

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
How often will you be three miles off shore to use the macerator and discharge valve?

John Mason - Ali Paroosa
1982 - FK/SR #3290
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I tend to agree with John, going 3 miles to "unload" vs just getting a pumpout is worth not having to put another hole in the hull.

A few additional notes and thoughts -

For those on the Great Lakes - NO Discharge ALLOWED regardless of three miles.

Food waste itself has a 12 mile discharge reg. per MARPOL V. However Human waste is only 3 miles???? ( I understand that it is treated but still!)

Here's another one to ponder -
If a person happens to eat plastic (I don't know why, but say he/she does) and uses the head, which category does it fall under - category one (no discharge allowed?) Or the regular Head tank 3 miles?

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 02/24/2003 : 12:12:17

RichardC:

You may not require any new holes below the water line.

The intake water can be sourced with a T-fitting from the (possibly?) already existing through-hull which provides water to the forward sink.

The overboard outtake from the holding tank can utilize the (possibly?) already existing manual bilge pump (which exits the boat just above the water line at the transom) by using a Y-valve. One of the two intakes of the Y-valve is the tube which collects water from the bottom of your bilge. The other is the tube from the head holding tank. The outtake from the Y-valve then goes to the manual bilge pump (a Whale/Gusher type?) which is operated as normal from the cockpit. Moving the Y-valve handle either way lets you pump out either the holding tank or the bilge with the same pump. A macerator is not required.

Assuming you are on your way to Catalina Island, pumping your head out after you're are at least 3 miles offshore but no nearer to the island than 3 miles is legal and commonly done. This system is also legal and effective when Avalon Harbor Patrol puts dye in your holding tank.

As stated, a deck pumpout tube (required for inshore/lake disposal) and vent tube are also required. My vent tube is located on the side deck next to the deck pumpout fitting. As recommended, get high quality tubing made for head systems -- a little extra $ now helps prevent a lot of problems later on.

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

Edited by - on

rcraig
1st Mate

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USA
28 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2003 : 08:46:17

To Richard G....

Thanks for the additional info. I've already plumbed for water 'in' thru the existing thru-hull/fresh water tank. I think that is a good way to go. Can do a fresh water flush on occassion to keep system fresh.

I like the idea of utilizing the existing bilge outlet. Barring more rain this weekend, I'll give that a look.

As for the vent tube, do you have yours actually ON deck next to the pump-out port, or is it off to the side of the boat, just below the deck ?? I had a notion to route it up into the anchor locker, figuring it would be fairly isolated from incoming water & odor would stay away from cabin area. Whatdoyathink ???

By the way, any good 'inexpensive' sources for the hose/tubing ?? Actual plumbing to the head, tank, etc is next on the list, as the mechanical install is now complete.

Thanks again,

Richard C
**getting anxious to launch this puppy**

Edited by - on

John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2003 : 14:11:58

If you run your vent tube into the anchor locker, how will you know when the holding tank is full? Sometimes it happens. Someone will be pumping away flushing the head and your anchor locker will fill up with "yeeck".

John Mason
<img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/ali.jpg" border=0>
pronounced "Ali Paroosa"
1982 - FK/SR #3290

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2003 : 15:09:27

RichardC:

My vent definitely exits the boat on top of the port side deck (not out through the side of the hull). The vent tube, like the deck pumpout tube, goes from the holding tank, up and forward a little through the bulkhead (at a level under the top of the seat), then basically straight up through the deck of my traditional interior. It's funny about the vent tube cover (the stainless thing that prevents most sea water from going in the tube), just rotating it minutely makes a huge difference in whether I smell anything back in the cockpit -- fine tuning its direction is definitely worth the effort.

I echo John's advice that you not put the vent in the anchor locker.

I'm not sure about hose/tubing prices specifically, but I've found Boater's World sometimes has better prices than WM on these types of items. It's worth checking if there's one around you.

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

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