Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I made a dodger and thought i would share , i bought a dodger how to video from sailrite.com and it came out pretty good for a first time ..on a home sewing machine
Thanks Dave , It is the small 3 bow Bimini kit from west marine without the top I think it was about 150 and I cut the hight down to fit .. The with was fine
I still have to add snaps to the front windshild to keep it tight , sailrites videos are pretty good shows how to make a pattern worth the $20 . it is a little complicated ,but I'm sure if I made another i could work out some ringcles ..it's fine for this year thow . I made the center window so I could unzip it and roll it up .
I wanted it to collapse Dow to the deck but only the roof part collapses quickly ..but with 4 quick pins the whole thing comes off easily
Pop top looks good with the window cj I always wanted to add a window to the door part ..
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by CJRoxs</i> <br />I plan on doing this to my pop-up.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Is it an optical illusion, or is that boat heeled over about 50 degrees?
I've considered doing something similar. I'd appreciate details on the metal sub-structure halfway back under the pop-top cover. How/where does it mount to the slider rails? Is it also a U-tube? Is it bent forward, and if so, how to you prevent excessive torque at the base?
I've also considered using just the aft pop-top U-tube, and making an alternate smaller cover that snaps on at the front edge of the slider, using the exact same snaps that my canvas top uses there, and also uses the snaps that the pop-top uses on the sides of the companionway hatch.
I'm not as interested in OP's design because I don't want to chop down the legs on the pop top like he did, and I'd rather use the full height U-tube to allow full headroom when going through the companionway.
I can't answer any questions about the pop top dodger. I saw it on a YouTube video and took a screen shot of it. That is what you are seeing. I like Ziel's frame but maybe 2 angled supports so the window is unobstructed? Although a single support doesn't really block much.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by zeil</i> <br /> <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> How do you store this when not in use?
Look closely and you'll see a tiny hole where the frames meet. Insert a zap strap or any kind of pin to connect the two together. Extra tubes are easily stored together with the original frame.
As an alternative connect both frames and eliminate the "angled support". Keep in mind that it supports, during windy conditions, the forward part of the pop-top
By the way... if anyone chooses to go the pop-top route they'll have to reduce about 11/2" from the pop-top legs to accommodate the ss tube between the pop-top and raised hatch. No or little headroom is lost
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.