The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Tried it. It doesn't work. I get a little hand with a little explosion icon and an exclamation mark. Obviously some sort of "error" message. That's what I get no matter how I try to do it. How can you leave the forum altogether??
I am logged on...as I am replying to the thread under my log on name.
Trust me....I have checked everything. Pop ups are not blocked and I set this site to be one that is allowed (not blocked) by any programs or firewalls. I have tried every way that is provided to unsubscribe and cannot do so.
We sold our Catalina months ago and are in the midst of rebuilding a Cape Dory 33. It's not a huge deal, I just delete the emails when they come in, but would still like to figure out how to stop getting them altogether.
Been sailing a bunch recently and starting the first of many "winter" projects. First on the deck is a whale supersub 1100 electric bilge along with separate float and bilge alarm. Also, replaced all the slugs on the main yesterday as I blew every single one to pieces Sunday in a huge gust. Been messing with the go pro too. (Don't mind the Jib, been using the backup)
Thank you for the nice comments and yes I am a busy buoy lol. Can't really leave anything alone even though each project takes 4 times as much money and 4 times as much time it's worth spending on something you love. It used to be cars, but ever since the admiral let me buy this, it's been my main focus. Now she wants to buy a house, hopefully that can wait for me to do a lot more to DB.
Don't know where you are, Rob and Alyson, but I hope it's warmer than Michigan's U.P. right now. I recently put my baby to bed for the winter, using an all over tarp well roped down.
After four inches of snow overnight I noticed the tarp over the cockpit area was sagging either side of the mast under the weight. Spent the afternoon dragging back the tarp and lacing rope back and forth across between the life lines and over the mast. Not my idea of fun with temps in the mid-twenties. Hopefully, it'll give a bit more support and the snow will have a chance to blow off. Hardly an upgrade, but hopefully a fix.
Nice . Yea we're about to have a cold front hit at the end of this week. That might push mounting the rope clutches and new cabintop winch till later. I don't think the epoxy I am using cures under 50degrees. Think Im gonna need to go put some pink stuff in the compartments and flush the motor empty.
Also, edit for previous post. I thought I attached the photo...
I did many mods in the first years I owned my boat (4 spring outboard motor mount, 2006 9.9HP Honda XLS, replaced depth finder w/Humminbird fish finder, 20 watt solar panel & digital controller, xtended bunk adjacent to cabin short side, rewired mast to new 8 switch panel located on sink front panel, LED photo-diode anchor light, plexiglass enclosure & shelf protecting transducers and making VBerth storage more usable, New Quantum main sail & 150 furling Genoa, replaced all running rigging -Sheets, halyards and furling line, installed new boom vang, major blister repairs into laminate requiring all repairs with Fiberglas cloth/re-laminated followed by 7 coats of Interprotect, had my SR. Mariner knot meter overhauled by SR. Mariner, last major thing - Had Atlantic Rigging out of Annapolis come down and replaced all standing rigging w/mast up in the finger slip...and I am sure there are a few things I forgot to list...like cabin lights replaced w/LEDs). Nothing this past year except - Boom to mast connecting stud, recently replaced main sheet blocks with Harken Carbo blocks after boom block Ronstan block lower connector failed and line w/figure 8 knot wound up at the cam block effectively reducing mechanical advantage from 3 to 2. Carbo blocks restored mech advantage to 3 and they are smooth in operation ! Need to replace knot meter impeller due to it broke off during recent pressure wash and had stopped working - Ordered new transducer and now have it but will probably wait to spring to replace damaged unit,
all the above definitely equaled or greater than original boat cost but I use my boat a lot and all year round, Boat is in great shape and with a bottom better than new with the waterproofing !
It's copper strand that I plan to solder the ends before using crimp butt connectors with heat shrink ends and adhesive sealant. Is it bad if the entire wires aren't tinned if the connections are done well?
I've had too many problems - in boats I've owned and boats I've worked on for others - from wires that rotted through at minor nicks and slices in the insulation, some that I have no idea how they came to be. Tinned marine wire probably helps: I wouldn't know, because I've never encountered this in tinned marine wire (and I don't think it's 'cause the stuff comes with some kind of superior insulation).
Arguably the greatest factor contributing to damaged insulation (other than leading a wire tightly around a sharp corner or over ragged edges of a drilled hole) is improper support along the wire's length. Wires and cables should be strapped frequently, to prevent sagging loops from slapping against corners or sharp edges of raw fiberglass in the non-visible spaces we route them through. They also should be kept away from the inner surface of the hull where errant loose objects can ding them. Without doubt, the most labor-intensive and physically demanding part of wiring a boat (properly) is getting into those barely accessible spaces to screw straps in place after you've struggled just to pull the wire/cables through. I've been rewiring my boat lately and I'm discovering muscles that haven't been used in a long while. But I've learned, the hard way of course, that it's just not worth investing the time and effort to rewire a boat if you just pull wires and then forget about them. The penance comes years later when something stops working and you just can't figure out why it's not getting power.
Back to the question of tinned marine wire, it's like anything else in a boat: water WILL find its way in sooner or later.
Good luck with your project, Rob; a proper wiring job will be something to be proud of.
you'll get alot og life from non-tinned wire. probably will last longer then you own the boat. mine is all original un tinned and still going strong. my cheoy lee had solid (gasp) wire from the factory. half the supports had come loose and it as free to flop around. worked for 40 years. doing it properly will give you peace of mind, but I'm not replacing everything that is working in order to get it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.