Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just use a garden variety solar light on the stern and one in the boat as a night light They seem to work great. I have installed new LED light fixtures inside and a deck light bulb while running DC and AC in the cabin. I could not believe how limited the internal electrical was. Some of those runs are really hard to do! I might change my running lights to LED but probably not the fixtures. Chief
I agree with not just replacing bulbs. The LED specific fixtures are much more durable since everything is permanently fixed in place.
Aquasignal Series 34 lights (http://www.aquasignal.com.au/series-34/) are a good size for a Catalina 25, are very bright, nicely made, and seem to be pretty durable so far. I have one as my bow running light, and have a stern one ready to install as my stern running light. My anchor light is made by Hella and is a NaviLED 360, but it looks like Aquasignal has that covered now too.
I'm going to be at the boat today and can take a photo of how I mounted the Aquasignal 34 bow running light onto my bow pulpit. I had to make a mounting bracket using some Sea-Dog Line hardware.
Word of caution: red-green foreward running lights consisting of a red lens and a green lens using a single 2 nm incandescent bulb is rated as legal for a bow running light. Taking the same fixture and replacing the incandescent bulb with a white 2nm LED so filtered (red&green) probably will NOT be USCG approved. Why? Incandescent bulbs put out a broad spectrum of light, so that there is relatively similar amounts of light power across the entire spectrum (with a peak in the yellows for tungsten), however white LEDs are created by using a UV LED plus white phosphors like a fluorescent tube. White LEDs have low power in the green spectrum, while warm LEDs have some power in the red spectrum, neither filtered light intensity is sufficient to be visible from 2 nm away. Instead, manufacturers have built special-purpose LED red-green lights that have no filters and two separate LEDs - a red one and a green one. These are rated for 2nm.
Nice info Bruce! I didn't know the spectrum specifics but was aware that there could be a problem. I changed my interior lights and deck light to LED but not anchor or running lights. Chief
My Anchor light has worked about 2.5 years now. It's a shame Bebe lighting went out of business.. When mine fails I think I'll probably make another one of similar design ( leds in PVC sealed in resin. )
...I changed my interior lights and deck light to LED but not anchor or running lights.
Me too, but I also changed the anchor light, since it's the one that's most likely to stay on all night without the motor running. That energy efficiency is important to have in the anchor light.
Rick: I agree that amp draw on the anchor light is a problem. Actually I will only have mine on if running at night along with my running lights. I have been using a solar light on the stern for an anchor light. That sure doesn't drain my batteries! Chief
I use LEDs in the cabin like many folks do, and my stern running light and anchor light are white 2nm LEDs. I agree that the anchor light should have low conumption. On Passage the steaming light (aka bow light) and red-green running light are both incandescent. Since you only run the steaming light when motoring it doesn't have to save power. I would eventually like to replace the foreward running light to keep power consumption down, but I sail after dark so infrequently it's not a pressing problem and the stern LED compensates.
Anchor + running lights while under way is not an approved navigation lighting scheme for a sailboat. You should only use the anchor light when at anchor.
If you use a solar anchor light make sure that it meets the 2nm visibility requirement.
I had to modify the clamp slightly to fit the bolt spacing of the Aquasignal 34. If I remember correctly I extended the slots in the square/diamond shaped plate.
Then it just clamps onto the bow pulpit where the original light was mounted.
I don't know why Aquasignal doesn't make a LED replacement with the same shape and mounting pattern as the Aquasignal 25 lights that were stock on the Catalina 25. Those were very popular running lights and a drop in replacement would be very nice.
Here are a couple of photos of my setup. Don't copy my wiring, it should be a lot cleaner and tuck in behind the light. The wire in my bow pulpit is a few inches too short for that and I haven't pulled a new one.
I don't remember if my Catalina 25 had a mounting tab for the Aquasignal 25 welded on or clamped on, so maybe this wouldn't be as clean on the 25.
Chief - while a solar LED saves power, the key issue for an anchor light is (1) where you place it and (2) whether is visible 360° around. You should run the LED up on a halyard as high up as you can. Make sure you also rig a downhaul. Some LEDs are all around while others are spotlights. You should have an all around.
Of course the other issue is light power output. You can hang an all around LED portable light from the halyard which may be brighter. Camp stores sell them.
Bruce: The solar light I use is 360. bright, and runs all night. I suppose I could get it up higher. Presently it is above my bimini and mounted on the solar panel rack, shows up well. Chief
quote:I did the bulb conversion a couple of years ago on my bow light and it's constantly flickering on and off (mostly off).
I had this problem too. The solution, for me, was to bend the connectors slightly inward, then wrap a cable tie around them aft of the replacement bulb. No more flickering.
quote:I did the bulb conversion a couple of years ago on my bow light and it's constantly flickering on and off (mostly off).
I had this problem too. The solution, for me, was to bend the connectors slightly inward, then wrap a cable tie around them aft of the replacement bulb. No more flickering.
Word of caution: red-green foreward running lights consisting of a red lens and a green lens using a single 2 nm incandescent bulb is rated as legal for a bow running light. Taking the same fixture and replacing the incandescent bulb with a white 2nm LED so filtered (red&green) probably will NOT be USCG approved. Why? Incandescent bulbs put out a broad spectrum of light, so that there is relatively similar amounts of light power across the entire spectrum (with a peak in the yellows for tungsten), however white LEDs are created by using a UV LED plus white phosphors like a fluorescent tube. White LEDs have low power in the green spectrum, while warm LEDs have some power in the red spectrum, neither filtered light intensity is sufficient to be visible from 2 nm away. Instead, manufacturers have built special-purpose LED red-green lights that have no filters and two separate LEDs - a red one and a green one. These are rated for 2nm.
The LED I'm using has red and green LED's and looking at it up-close and far away the colors seem to be very normal looking and is very bright.
From what I understand the fixture and the type of bulb are approved as a unit and the fact I'm using a LED in place of an incandescent bulb in a fixture designed for an incandescent bulb is probably technically not legal but it is definitely much brighter than the incandescent bulb it replaced so I'm sticking with it until I can find an approved LED fixture.
I'm thinking about going with the Aqua Signal Series 43 fixtures. They are a lot bigger (and more expensive) but I'm not too concerned about the size, I just want to be seen.
Gary - If you have a forward running light unit with separate and discrete red and green LED lamps, that should work well and be visible from a good distance off. It's the manufacturer's responsibility to obtain certification by the USCG or other authorities. The single-bulb type fixtures with red and green colored lenses are the troublesome types for LED lamps. When the light coming from a single white LED passes through a colored filter, it is anybody's guess what the brightness profile will be in the red and green ranges. Add to that variability in the formulation of the LED fluorescent material vs the color of the red and green plastic or glass filters and there's no guaranty the two are compatible. Separate, bright, unfiltered red and green LEDs like yours should work fine and should easily win approval for navigation purposes. Those who still use filtered incandescent bulbs in Coast Guard-approved fixtures should be fine as well.
Chief - that configuration for the solar LED sounds fine, however, if the law were persnickety, they could give you a hard time. The key factor is that from a short to medium distance, other boaters should observe an all around light up high above the boat. This image represents a boat at anchor at night - both the height and the swing of the mast. Contrast that to a boat with a light 10 ft above waterline - it would look like the rear end of a powerboat viewed in such a way that the red-green was hidden by the cabin (viewed from directly behind). Sure - would other boaters see this as another boat? Probably. But they might not perceive it as a sailboat at anchor. This is why height is important.
Chief - that configuration for the solar LED sounds fine, however, if the law were persnickety, they could give you a hard time. The key factor is that from a short to medium distance, other boaters should observe an all around light up high above the boat. This image represents a boat at anchor at night - both the height and the swing of the mast. Contrast that to a boat with a light 10 ft above waterline - it would look like the rear end of a powerboat viewed in such a way that the red-green was hidden by the cabin (viewed from directly behind). Sure - would other boaters see this as another boat? Probably. But they might not perceive it as a sailboat at anchor. This is why height is important.
Here's the LED I'm using which I just read on Dr. LED's website is USCG approved 2 NM light for Aqua Signal fixtures so I guess I am legal.
[url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1569_339/led-cabin-light-round-plastic-wred--white-leds.cfm"]Here are the interior replacement fixtures[/url] that I installed. It's really nice having the red LED's, since they draw so little power that I just turn on the red and leave it on the whole time we're sailing at night. The color fidelity of the white LEDs is OK, but not fantastic. They're a little on the cool side.
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And finally, a couple weeks ago I replaced the C250 incandescent spots over the dinette [url="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKKJE2G/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]with these[/url]. They protrude about 1/16" below the fixture, but they provide very high quality light with good color fidelity - much better than any LED's I've tried before.
<< I will get a LED for the anchor light. >>
The promise of the bulb never burning out was one of the main reasons I wanted an LED. Difficult to change out a bulb on top of the mast. When I first got the boat, I would loose a bulb every big storm after the mast next to me at the dock would whack mine and kill the bulb. Later I learned to alternate forward/aft docking next to another sailboat, and now I always have a slip next to a powerboat.
Over the years I've heard several people mention they run a LED lantern up the mast and use it as an anchor light.
While it might be OK if you can make sure the lantern stays on the water side of you mast and you are close to shore but if you are far enough out from shore that boats could approach from any direction be aware that the mast is blocking a significant portion of that 360 degrees of light and you risk getting hit.
FWIW, I bought [url="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045XJ4A0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]one other led, for the deck light[/url]. This one's a bit of an experiment, since it's not weather proof. But it is recessed up in the fixture so it should not see rain directly. And I'm in freshwater, so corrosion would hopefully be a little less.
One other tip for you guys - for festoon bulbs like the anchor light, I put a small dab of high temperature conductive electrical grease on the contacts to knock down the corrosion. When I first got the boat the anchor light was dead, but the bulb was not burnt out and it was seated properly. It just had poor contact due to the corrosion. That's a problem that could affect LED or incandescent light, so it's best to address the corrosion proactively.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.