Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Has anyone had any experience repairing/replacing thru hulls?? I may have a thru hull that is leaking. Any help would be great. Bruce Ebling 89WK "Selah"
This shouldn't be too big a job. I had both my "to-hulls" and gate valves replaced with new "thru-hulls" and ball valves for $125. If you already have true "thru-hulls", maybe they can just be rebedded in 4200 and tightened down?
If your '89 (sorry I don't know when Catalina stopped installing to-hulls) has "to-hulls" and one is leaking...I would replace it and SOON! If your boat has gate valves I would dump those as well.
Brian. Great Salt Lake (10-times saltier than the ocean) "SAFARI", C25 TR-FK #2275
At this point the boat is on the trailer waiting for the resevoir to fill. When I bought the boat (Salt Lake City) it has some water in the "V" berth area. Yesterday I was looking at the holding tank and valves and noticed one of the valves had a wood plate that it was bedded to. The wood looked in bad shape. I thought that maybe water had leaked into the forward area by means of the rotten wood. I will not be sure until the boat is re-floated in April.
Bruce We are new & had a leak in the v berth area also. It turned out to be the gate valve but I had the boat out of the water by then & had ordered the kit from Catalina direct. It had everything needed including the wooden backing blocks & instructions. Following instructions I had no problems & now have new thru hulls & ball valves. No leaks & I sleep better at night. I even built my confidence to the level that I am now in the process of replacing the bladder type holding tank with a new solid wall heavy duty tank. Good luck and just do it. dick t Windtamer in the water at Lake Mead.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...When I bought the boat (Salt Lake City) it has some water in the "V" berth area. Yesterday I was looking at the holding tank and valves and noticed one of the valves had a wood plate that it was bedded to. The wood looked in bad shape. I thought that maybe water had leaked into the forward area by means of the rotten wood. I will not be sure until the boat is re-floated in April. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Bruce: Did the boat sail on Great Salt Lake? If so, check for saltiness in that water under the v-berth. A common source of water under there is a leak in the anchor locker--especially at the drain tube at the bow. In that case, the water will be fresh (unless you bury your bow in some big breakers). A little caulk on the finger tip, applied inside the locker, fixes that one.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I agree with Dave on the anchor box. We have problems with water coming into the v berth just after very heavy rains. The anchor box gets backed up with water and leaks into the v berth storage area.
The volcano is cut of with a 90deg grinder. The area is then ground flush but be carefull to only remove as much material as needed. To remove the part of the tube left in the hull use a hacksaw blade and glove of hacksaw type knife saw. Once you have cut a slot you can curl and punch out the metal pipe with a punch and chisel. Clean out the fiberglass hole and boar it to size. You can use a rotary file in a drill or you can bang in a wood bung from the outside and cut it flush and then use a whole saw. Cut the hole slightly larger than the new through hull. Seal the new hole edges with resin or epoxy. Install the new through hull fitting with lots of 3M 4200 or Sikaflex 4200 lots of seal on the outside fitting before it goes in. Have someone hold it or use a prop. Go inside and seal around the fitting and hole and then install the gland nut. Finger tight or loose. wipe up the mess outside and in an let it set overnight or longer if cold. Tighten up the fitting only after the exterior seal has set up to 3/4 hard. This alows for a better seal and some squeez out. Clean up the exterior again and let it all set up. A little heat might help but not to much.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.