Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I received a replacement traveler bar ($25) and car ($35) from the bran' spankin' new Catalina Direct catalog (2/03) for my '84 C25 "Coolatta". These things are much better than the originals--the bar is SOLID, not a tube; the car is larger with equal sized black (Torlon?) rollers so that all sheets can be the same size. The whole deal is very sturdy and runs smoothly--one of the great bargains in the catalog at this price.
Now that I've paid the price of admission by buying the parts, does anyone have advice on how to get at the traveler bolts without cutting more access plates in the transom? (this year doesn't seem to have the foam insulating in the transom wall mentioned elsewhere)...
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I couldn't even tighten mine. The port end of the traveler bar was a bit loose, so I thought I'd put a socket on it and tighten it up ... I couldn't even get the socket on, much less tighten it any. I ended up glopping some 4200 around the base so it wouldn't leak.
I don't know what I'd do if I were replacing the traveler bar ... I guess I'd have to cut access holes to get to the nut on the bottom. It'll be interesting to follow this thread to see if anyone else has figured out how to do this.
There's a small hatch at the foot of the quarterberth. If you can get in there with a very long extension, a flashlight and a mirror, you might be able to see it to get a socket on it.
I've never tried this, but when I was replacing my gudgeons and putting backing plates on, I was in this area and it seemed like it might be possible. Probably a high frustration factor involved.
Access to the traveller bar bolts is a big issue - I can't get to mine without cutting an access panel in the cockpit, which I really don't want to do!
My traveller bar is in pretty good shape, and not loose, but the traveller car is shot and has to be replaced. Do you think I can use the new car on teh old bar?
Why not bite the bullet and put some screw-in deckplates through appropriate spots in the cockpit? A $10 deckplate plus a rotozip and half an hour's labor.... and then access won't be a problem anymore.
Well, that's my plan anyway.
I think being able to easily reach/repair/maintain critical things like rudder gudgeons, motor mounts, & traveller mounts is more than just convienence... it is an important safety factor.
Imagine being out on a rough day and watching your rudder gudgeon come loose... and not being able to tighten it due to inaccessability.
Having easy access might make the difference between a minor annoyance and a serious problem.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
I just put a Catalina/Direct Traveler on an old bar and it works fine.
Has anyone installed a Tempress or Bomar large access/inspection hatch to get to the traveler bar and grudgen nuts? Seems a larger access would be better than two small round units. I used a couple of 11" X 15" Tempress access hatches on my WWP 15 to make life easier.
I installed a 6" diameter access plate on the back of the cockpit to access the gudgeon nuts (By the way, there won't be gudgeon nuts unless you or a PO has put them there; the factory glassed in a threaded bronze plate that the gudgeon bolts screw into).
I haven't tried to reach the traveler nuts from the access hole. If you could reach them, you wouldn't be able to turn a wrench on them - too tight a space.
I am sorry I cant give you much detail since I didn't witness the procedure but a friend of mine had the same problem of axcess. He removed enough of the stern rub rail and cut a small hole with a keyhole saw for a ratchett wrench and caulked around it when replacing the rub rail. Seemed to work very well for him without much frustration. Maybe the idea will help anyway.Good luck.
The admiral and commodore call this the "MF" factor, as in how many times Harv and I say the MF word while working on a boat project.
If you need to cut holes into the trasom, (cockpit side) you may want to think about installing a small cockpit light, or a fold down drink holder to cover the slot. That way the hole is a bit more aesthic and functional, yet still accessible.
Thanks for all your responses. It looks like I'll have a lot of convenient drink holders before this project is through, because after visiting the boat on the hard this weekend I discovered that the space between the liner and hull are so narrow that reaching in is a no-go. It will take one new hole for each end of the traveler bar and one for the upper gudgeon...
I just recently replaced the car only on the old traveler bar and it works great. I can't believe how easily the car moves across the traveler bar now. It is not hard at all to replace it, you undo the shackle at the top of the car and it pops on to the bar with a little help. You possibly can take your old car to West Marine and rebuild it yourself to save you some money. I am going to rebuild my old car so that if something happens to the new one I have a Spare.
If you are going to order the car from Catalina Direct the part number for boats 1987 and older is #D1120 and if you need one for a 1988 or newer the part number is #D1128.
Hi Jason/Fran, I've previously repaired the old car with sheaves from West but they are no longer in the catalogue. It occured to me to replace the car with Catalina Direct's D1120 unit. Your endorsement of it encourages me to get off the pot and JUST DO IT. The catalogue's description of same was a little obscure. Val on the hard DAGNABIT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I've previously repaired the old car with sheaves from West but they are no longer in the catalogue. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Val--not to discourage getting the new car, but how 'bout the "sheave guy" at Belpat Marine? He should be able to make 'em to your specs.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Dave-The older I get the more closely I look for the easy way out.<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle> It didn't occur to me to check out that place but perhaps I will. Thanks for the reminder.
The green stuff is all we've seen since we hauled "Swept Away" in December. (We'd love to see the water again soon!) The boat was new to us in May of last year, and we're embarrassed on how many blisters we've been filling!
We're trying to do a fairly complete refit while she's out. I'll post under a new topic soon on all the upgrades.
Don Jones "Swept Away" '82 SR/FK, Charlotte, Southport, NC
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.