Association Forum - replacement teak

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

replacement teak

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

wade
Deckhand

Member Avatar

Canada
17 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/09/2003 : 13:16:02

I am considering buying an 81 standard rig which has not been launched in 12 years. All the exposed teak looks in hard shape and would like an idea on replacement costs. I have not been able to find prices anywhere as of yet.

Thanks,

Wade

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2003 : 13:48:09

Wade---"all the teak looks in hard shape". There are some of us (me and me brother)<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>that think,know, that teak was chosen for the outsides of boats for its ability to withstand the vagaries of nature's offerings without any synthetic coverings since it is the nature of teak to provide its own. I for one prefer the Cape Cod look of external teak and retch at the sight of varnished teak. <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>. Now if it's varnish that you want you'll find an abundance of brightwork in the innards of the Catalina and go at it

My apologies this should have been preceeded by IMHO.

Val on the hard DAGNABIT

Val Bisagni]<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df11b3127cce94709c5ff2e90000000010" border=0>

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1595 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2003 : 14:35:58

You would be surprised at how easy it is to clean up the teak. It may look grey and worn but with a little sanding and some oil it can look new. Catalina direct might carry new teak and West Marine carries it.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

f_sondergaard
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
92 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2003 : 15:30:28

Wade,

I would first try and sand and use teak oil on your teak first. But if you decide to go through Catalina Direct the Hatch boards run about $183.00 for three <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>. The teak slide rails run about $34.00 a piece; the teak campanionway trim run about $23.00 a piece; The hand rails run about $53.00; and the teak threshold is around $30.00.

All these prices are out of my Catalina Direct book and it is a little more than a year old and some of the prices have most likely gone up. They do sell plastic trim now, if you don't want your boat to have all the real charactor of the old boats. I honestly prefer the teak due to its looks and the charactor it adds to a boat.

If you are not aware of Catalina Direct their phone number is 1-800-959-7245 and they can send you a owner's handbook for a small price.

Jason & Fran
1982 Catalina 25
Swing to Wing

Edited by - on

NuNees
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
125 Posts

Response Posted - 03/09/2003 : 22:53:56

[quote]
All the exposed teak looks in hard shape and would like an idea on replacement costs.
Thanks,

Wade

I too thought that the teak on the '85 I bought in Sept was 'hard looking'. The Admiral thought so too...she did not like the grey look....

Long story short, I removed handrails, the top sildes and the companionway boards and brought them home. After just a couple of hours all of them were drying nicely. I used a quart of Starbright Teak brightner all at the kitchen sink. They looked like brand new wood.

I made the decision to remove rather than clean in place, because I wanted to see to it that they were bedded and sealed properly. They had been loose as they came off without a struggle. The advice I got here was to be very careful removing these pieces as they could have been sealed by a PO with something super agressive. This might cause some of the gelcoat tto stick to the teak. Mine came free, easily.
I did not have to remove the teak buttons. The nuts came loose with no problrm. Had it been necessary to remove and replace those, I might have chickened out. When I finished the restoration, I chased the threads with a 1/4-20 die and did not have any problem returning the hand rails to the top. As soon as the polysulfide cures i will add a couple more in/#'s to seat them better.

Once you get them clean and dry, the choice of finish is up to you.

This weekend we cleaned the remaining teak pieces. Just waiting for the next warm day to complete the finishing process. The 'NEW' look has been well worth the modest effort. The Admiral is happy.

Good luck in your project...as i read here...'anytime spent with the boat, is time well spent...' or words to that effect.

Bill Jaworowski
C25 SR/SK On the hard @ Carlyle Lake Ill.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

3072 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 09:56:37

My teak was grey, and badly weathered too. All the pieces refinished nicely except for the hatch boards which were so badly cupped that they were unsalvagable.

Unless the teak is totally shot, some elbow grease, sandpaper and some Sikkens Cetol finish will have them looking pretty darn good again. An investment in a decent 1/4 sheet finishing sander or a 5" orbital can save lots of hours.

I made a set of replacement hatch boards out of 1" Mahogany.. total cost $24. (You'll need access to table saw to do this).

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

John J.
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
157 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 15:25:35

Before you pitch the teak, you might want to consider Te-Ka which is a very caustic but very efficient solution to restore the color of the wood to natural almost instantly with very little effort. I've used it many times on badly weathered teak, and trust me ,it does the job. The wood will have to be removed but you would have to do that anyway to replace with new. If you try it, follow instructions very carefully, it is strong.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 16:21:19

My boat was sitting outside for 10 years before we got her. Here is what the teak looks like now....
(ignore the 4 ugly looking gentlemen, concentrate on the rails)
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d600b3127cce9f9ffc99da9b0000001610" border=0>

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - Duane Wolff on 03/10/2003 16:23:14

Edited by - on

Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 21:31:13

Nice looking teak Duane, what process did you use?

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2003 : 07:52:59

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Nice looking teak Duane, what process did you use?

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

We took every last piece of teak (external) off the boat. Throughly scrubbed it with teak cleaner sanded it then rinsed it off and let it dry. We applied 2 coats of Cetol marine (light I think) and a couple of coats of the gloss.

Through the yacht club I have come to know one of the VP's at waterlox. Next time (hopefully read that as next boat because doing teak is not my thing) I plan on using their product.

www.waterlox.com

The one thing I like about there product is the ability to purchase a "Trial" packet, so your not out 80 bucks to find out that you don't like the product.

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - Duane Wolff on 03/11/2003 07:57:59

Edited by - on

rwall10597
Deckhand

Members Avatar

USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2003 : 09:56:22

I have had my 1981 for just shy of two years now. When I bought the boat the teak was not in the best shape. It cleaned up to look ok but it in a matter a of a few days it looked terrible again, I tried to oil the heck out of it for several weeks and it wouldn't stay nice. There were a few pieces that were split anyway so I made the decision to replace it.

I ordered everything from Catalina Direct and the saga began. They shipped me the first few pieces right away, the straight forward pieces that are standard among many boats. The included the pieces that the hatch boards slide down into and the long grab rails on top of the cabin house. Acutally, the trim for the cubby holes in the cockpit came right away too. The rest never came. The thing that bugs me is that they took about 6 months to tell me the would not be able to send it. They apparently no longer had the original plans and all the boats aren't exactly the same. At their request I had even gone to the trouble of measuring my boat and about 1/2 a dozen others only to have them say I was going to need to send them all my old pieces as templates for them.

I was hesitatant to do this. I ended up taking the pieces off the boat then going out and buying some teak and bringing everything to my father. He enjoyed the project and I had it back on the boat in about a week and a half. I just wish I knew that was the path I was going to have to take 6 months earlier.

Basically, if you find the best option is to replace the teak, I would see what they have in stock and just order that. This will most likely be the cockpit cubby trim and the grab rails. These are the only things that have really complex cuts.

Somebody had told me that with the cockpit cubby trim, that I should use an adhesive instead of the screws to put it back on. This is because most of the cracking and splitting occurs around the screws. I did this and it looks great.

As far as cleaning up your old stuff, if you have never used one of those two step cleaners you will be amazed with what they can do. Basically if the wood is still there you can get it looking nice. Just be careful that you don't use to stiff of a brush or else it will dig grooves in the surface of the wood and make it difficult to keep looking nice.

Anybody feel free to contact me if you want any more tips, I just went through it all.

BW

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.