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Re-mounting the teak

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John J.
Navigator

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USA
157 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/10/2003 : 19:27:18

The teak has been removed,stripped, sanded, and finished with cetol. Now I will remount it. Polysulfide caulk seems to be the concensus. Any brands recommended? I seem to recall reading about applying the caulk, snugging down the wood, then tightening after a brief drying period. Is this right? The teak was originally sealed with a compound that resembles Liquid nails, which I assume is dolfinite. Any good ways of removing this from the gelcoat?

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 19:54:40

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...Polysulfide caulk seems to be the concensus. Any brands recommended? ...The teak was originally sealed with a compound that resembles Liquid nails, which I assume is dolfinite. Any good ways of removing this from the gelcoat?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I got some stuff called Anti Bond 2015 at the chandlery at my boatyard, and was very pleased with its ability to remove hardened caulk, duct tape adhesive, and other nasty stuff, and seems to be gentle on gelcoat.

For polysulfide, Life Caulk and 3-M 4200 are virtually identical, IMHO. I'm sure every manufacturer would argue this, but polysulfide is basically polysulfide.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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John Mason
Admiral

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USA
687 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 20:01:55

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>then tightening after a brief drying period. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

With polysulfide, that brief drying period can be up to a week or two depending on moisture and temperature. More of both is better.

John Mason
<img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/ali.jpg" border=0>
pronounced "Ali Paroosa"
1982 - FK/SR #3290

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/10/2003 : 20:26:38

This is an excerpt of a Sailnet article titled, "Choosing and Using Sealants", by Don Casey.

Working the Goo

None of the sealants mentioned above will work well unless you give them a chance. If you crank down on the mounting bolts until you squeeze all the sealant out, you might as well put the parts together without sealant. The correct mounting technique is the same regardless of the sealant you use; follow these tips:

Both surfaces must be clean and dry, which means peeling or scraping away every bit of old caulking and wiping the surfaces with acetone or MEK. If you try to caulk right over the old caulking, it will leak—guaranteed.

Countersink fastener holes. Countersinking the deck allows for a wider bead of sealant around the fastener. In addition, the wedge shape of the countersink makes this "ring" of sealant function much like an O-ring when compressed. This effect is doubled by also countersinking the underside of the bedded component when thickness allows.

Apply the sealant liberally. If it does not squeeze out all the way around the joint, take it apart and do it again. There is no reason to be miserly; the sealant you save is almost certain to harden in the tube or cartridge before you use it anyway.

Mask both components before bedding. If you are using silicone, allow the squeeze-out to fully cure, then slice it free with a razor blade. For the more tenacious poly sisters, smooth the ooze with your finger, then peel the tape promptly to leave a neat edge. Remember to seal around the fasteners. Snug but do not tighten the mounting screws. Compressing all the sealant out of the joint is the most common bedding error and it dooms the effort.

It is essential to leave the components separated by a gasket of sealant. Put the seal under compression. Let the sealant fully cure—this takes a week or longer for most polysulfides and polyurethanes—then go back and evenly tighten all the fasteners. This ensures a watertight seal even if the sealant loses its grip. Turn only the nuts on through-bolts to avoid breaking the seal around the fastener.

Here is a link to the article. It's got some good stuff in it.

http://www.sailnet.com/collections/articles/index.cfm?articleid=caseyd0051

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2cc32b3127cce92e981259d130000001010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2003 : 08:19:14

Hey Don,

Good tips. My favorite sealant is 3M 4200 as it cures quickly, and supposedly you can take parts apart. It will pull off gelcoat when you do though.

I especially like the tip of countersinking screw holes. I'll do that in the future.

All of my rebedded hardware, including gudgeons on my 22 done with the method you described never leaked.

3M also makes a high quality masking tape which is blue in color, I forget the model number, which is a little more expensive but is well worth it. It doesn't come apart when you pull it off. I'll take a pencil and mark around the fitting to be sealed, and then mask around it with several pieces to get a good curve around a curved item, leaving about a very small margin around the piece. Then when the caulk is cured use a razor knife to trim the caulk at an angle, then pull off the 3M tape.

Not a fun job, but necessary. I have all of the hardware to rebed on my new 25, and also all teak after refinishing.

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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