Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So DB is on the hard right now. Found a few things and had a couple questions.
First I found some spots of potential blisters. Had a good knowledgeable person come to check and confirmed a few minor locations of blistering in the hull but nothing to be too concerned with.
Second, a few good spots of bare metal/rust on the keel. I am planning to take a sanding disk to smooth it out and was wondering the best type of coating I could locally apply prior to the new bottom paint.
Third and my most concerning is the hinge/pivot assembly. I've never heard any knocking or play of the keel on the hinge that many members have noted so I am hoping that the pin itself is not in horrible condition. Really though I wanted to find out how to know or check if the hinge castings and bolts are in decent condition or at least not damaged. I am planning to ask the yard to investigate and let me know what they think but theres no real softness in the glass in the area and no noticeable play in any of the components. What did concern me is that the starboard side hinge looks like it's set further into the hull and not as clean as the other side. Any recommendations or experience with what I should look for to know if replacement is required?
On the hard:
Port side hinge:
Starboard side hinge:(Note the extensive rust from barnacles in the trunk scraping on the keel)
Other Shots:
Thank you! -Rob
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
Just to iterate. I have been searching through all of the archives to see what I can find and have not picked up answers specific to what I am looking for. My timeline is also extremely limited so I am really hoping that someone can provide some insight. Thank you, Rob.
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
Just checked, Pearl's starboard casting sits pretty flush with the hull. The port casting is recessed somewhat into the hull. I think it has more to do with our boats not being Pacific Seacrafts rather than structural issues. The bolts should be removed and reset, replaced is better, every year or two so you don't break the head off of a frozen bolt someday and have an expensive repair. Modest wear will cause clunking. You're probably OK if you don't have it. The only way to be sure is by supporting the keel and removing the castings for a visual inspection of the pin, castings, and hole. I'll stick a couple of photos in the Pearl's Bits and Pieces album.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
Rob, it's hard to tell with pictures, but I don't see anything really concerning Ref number 3. That said, the ONLY way to really check is to drop the keel. There is somewhere in the archives a pretty detailed explanation on how to do so using long threaded rods and slowly (and under control) bring the forward edge of the keel down. The yard might have some other options; I used a fork lift and cradle when I dropped mine. If you're going through the hassle of dropping the keel, then replace the whole keel casting assembly.
When doing work on my keel, I remembered thinking on how much was being relied upon just those four bolts going into the hull. Not thru bolted with backing plates like deck hardware, just four bolts holding 1,500lbs. My guess is Catalina engineered the crap out of it, I've heard of some issues around the pin and wallowing out the hole in the keel, but never heard of those four bolts failing and dropping a keel (as opposed to stories of the cable or winch failing).
Just my $.02. Good luck and let us know what you find.
Pix in the album. Threaded rod keel drop: 4 threaded rods (3/8X16 I think, check the owner manual) 8-12" long, 12 nuts, 4 flat washers. Replace the bolts one at a time with a rod and screw a flat washer and nut down to the casting. Jam 2 nuts really tight together on the opposite end of the casting to hold with a wrench while you are backing the nut against the casting so you don't accidentally unscrew the rod. When all four bolts have been replaced with rods, sequentially back the 4 nuts one turn at a time until the keel is down enough to inspect or supported to repair. Get replacement bolts from a marine supplier, not a hardware store. There are a lot of inferior grades of SS. The keel will fall over sideways if it fully dropped and not supported laterally.
Dave B. aboard Pearl 1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399 Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
I'm going to move forward without dropping it. Bottom was painted. They left the rust spots for me which I grinded down, cleaned up and coated with a primer/barrier coat. Yard is going to do another barrier coat then bottom paint on the touch ups and at the blocking locations.
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
There is most certainly more rust above the hinge pin than is shown (the piece tucked into the trunk that is never visible). That said, it likely isn't anything to be concerned about. The long-term solution would be to drop the whole damn thing, grind it down, and then start over. A ton of work. You could also raise the keel to get access to a slightly larger area.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.