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 Goto multi-meter?
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/13/2016 :  07:54:23  Show Profile
Has anyone either researched or through experience found a goto multi-meter for their boat?

I've heard some people say that they prefer an analog unit so they can see the needle move out of the corner of their eye. But the markings on my economy grade unit are very ambiguous.

I'm more focused on DC, at least at this moment . . .


1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  08:04:23  Show Profile
I've got both aboard.
I use an inexpensive analog multimeter to do quick continuity checks. And a nice Klein digital unit for more precise work (measuring amperage usage, etc.).
Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  08:06:34  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
I keep a Harbor Freight DMM in the toolkit. They're usually either free during a sale or so cheap they're essentially throw away meters. If I'm doing serious work, I'll bring my Fluke meter from home.

David
C-250 Mainsheet Editor


Sirius Lepak
1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3466 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  09:01:34  Show Profile  Visit OLarryR's Homepage
I also use one of those free Harbor freight multi-meters which I keep in my boat tool bag. I have a better quality multi-meter at home.

I was not able to find a great reference (which I use to have)regarding multi-meters - But if interested, rcmd do a search for a UTube video on multi-meters and see what you come up with. I mention this because many are not familiar with multi-meters and the dangers that one can encounter using a low quality multi-meter and that is why the U-Tube video was a great resource. I may have it saved on my PC at home - If I can find it, I will post it.

Basic concerns regarding low quality multi-meters...first, here is an example of the issues:

I sometimes give out to those in my engrg branch, some of the freebies I get from Harbor Freight (ie. Measuring tape, mulit-meter, LED flashlight, etc). One individual that I gave the multi-meter decided to test it's accuracy by placing the probes in an AC outlet in his work cubicle. He was going to measure the voltage but unfortunately....utilized the 10Amp socket on the multi-meter. When he placed the probes in the AC outlet, it sparked and burnt out the plastic probe/wire going to the 10 AMP port on the multi-meter. We really gave him grief over his misuse and how could an engr make such a mistake not using the voltage port but the 10Amp port ! Now, many months later, we still tease him on his blunder ! An electrical guy checked out the burnt multi-meter out at home and discovered that the meter itself was okay for all measurements but what had happened was that actually fortunately this "Free" multi-meter had the wire attaching to the probe crimped...and was the weak link sort of acting as a fuse when the guy at work utilized the 10Amp port vs the voltage port. He was lucky that all that was effected was the probe and not him !

Low quality multi-meters ( free to ~ $50. or so) generally do not have a fused 10Amp port which sets up the individual for having a major catastrophe if he uses that port by mistake. Higher quality multi-meters indicate on their face with a symbol or the word "Fused" to indicate that the 10Amp port is fused protected. High quality multi-meters also make it much less possible to hook up the probes incorrectly by locking out the ports that do not apply to the present multi-meter measurement settings. For example, if the multi-meter is set by dial to measure voltage, the amp ports for plugging in the probe is locked off - You cannot insert the into the amp port...totally making it mistake proof for this issue. Also, higher quality multi-meters may have auto range settings for measuring voltage, etc. For example, if measuring 12 volts, the higher quality multi-meters may be one that automatically selects/adjusts the scale to measure that voltage so that if measuring 120 volts, it will not burn out or set off a fuse if 12 volts was measure last time multi-meter was utilized...it will automatically default to adjusting to safely measure 120 volts. Not all meters have this feature.

So, important attributes to consider if wanting a safe multi-meter are to consider one that has a fused 10AMP port, locks off ports for which the meter dial is not presently set for measuring and possibly getting one that has an auto-measuring range feature.

Then again....for just keeping a cheapy multi-meter in the boat tool bag vs a high quality one...the Harbor Freight freebie is actually pretty accurate...as long as you do not misuse it and risk danger to components or self.


Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 07/13/2016 09:06:52
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5376 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  09:25:05  Show Profile
I've used cheapie digital multimeters but I've found that largely they are poorly calibrated. When you're testing a battery voltage to within tenth of volts (e.g.: a 12.8V vs 12.3V reading), accuracy is important. Ohms and amps, not so much...
If you find a good one, hang onto it. A simple calibration is to check a fresh alkaline battery. It should read 1.5V.
For analog meters when measuring voltage, the ranges on mine are 10V, 50V, 100V, so for measuring a 12V battery, it's kind of useless. You can purchase a digital or analog voltmeter made specifically for battery voltage, but that's usually intended for permanent installation as a gauge.
For continuity, I'd suggest a battery powered light and buzzer with test leads. It's a lot more rugged than a DMM. You can usually purchase them at an auto parts store or make one. If you make one, don't use a LED since it takes so little current, you really cannot buzz out corroded connections.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain — Milford, CT
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  16:00:22  Show Profile
A cheap analog is what I use for the vast majority of measurements. Precise values for resistance or voltage are rarely necessary, and I can bring my pricey digital if i ever do something requiring accuracy. Presence or absence of 12V or resistance is usually all that is required. Keep in mind that greater precision does not necessarily mean greater accuracy. Reading 12.73 on a digital meter on a 50V scale with 1% scale error range is still between 12.23 and 13.23, just like estimating it as 12.75 on an analog. A digital meter without selectable scales usually lists a very low error percentage, but it is still a percentage of the meter's full range.


Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 07/13/2016 :  17:34:38  Show Profile
Thanks for all of the above input.


I guess I'm part of the throw-away society now:

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html



1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 07/13/2016 17:34:52
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TCurran
Admiral

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USA
588 Posts

Response Posted - 07/14/2016 :  17:26:09  Show Profile
Welcome to the club!

Tom Curran
1981 Capri 25 Hull #101 "Dirty Debbie"
1988 Watkins 30
PAFB, FL

Edited by - TCurran on 07/14/2016 17:26:27
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