Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am commissioning my local marina to do pre-season maintenance on my boat (in eager anticipation of a good sailing season - especially after this winter's snow - enough is enough!!! - on Long Island).
My 1979 C25 SK was purchased early last year from a marina who had re-possed it due to non-payment of storage fees. It was in storage for at least 3 years, and I am assuming that the PO kept it in the water during the season. I do not know when the PO did keel maintenance previously. I launched it last season, kept it on my mooring (keel down), and hauled it out last November. No problems at all with any of the keel components - not even the "knocking" talked about when the keel is down.
My questions -
1)Thru-Hulls: My C25 has the infamous To-Hulls. They seem to be solid, but heeding the forum warnings, I avoided using them. I showed the CD Thru-Hull replacements to my marina, and they strongly advised against them - saying the the nylon type could crack from freezing water. They recommend brass Thru-Hulls (according to the marina, prices are comparable). What does the Forum think?
Also, a quick (perhaps dumb) questions regarding below-waterline thru-hulls - when the seacock is open, what prevents water from following IN, instead of OUT?
2)Keel Maintenance: I am definitely replacing the Keel cable and all related components (not sure about the winch - it worked well (clutch mechanism) but is somewhat rusty - but I only use it twice on launch and haul-out). My question is about the keel pivot pin. Is there anyway to verify its integrity short of having to remove the keel? The marina's labor rate is not cheap, and I need to do a cost/risk analysis. If indeed necessary, how many hours do you think it would take?
Another unrelated (or not) question to the Forum Members - are any of you that are located on Long Island willing to allow this humble and novice C25 correspondent the opportunity to see how you rig your boats (sails, travellers, etc). I am located in Centerport/boat is moored in Northport.
BTW - this Forum is one of the reasons that I went with the C25 - keep up the good work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
"when the seacock is open, what prevents water from following IN, instead of OUT?"
It does flow in... right up to the level of the water outside the hull.
On the pivot pin, I haven't done mine yet, but I think if the standpipe is removed, the pin is accessible from the inside of the hull.
Someone else here commented that the pin was glassed in and you had to use a dremel or other small grinder to remove some fiberglass before drifting it out.
I'll be finding out for myself in the next few weeks.
-- CB
-- CB
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
Hi and welcome to the group, you will gather much knowledge as i have from the individuals here.
The previous reply regarding the seacocks is correct, you have no worry provided the integrity of the unit is intact. Each spring I like to lubricate all my sea valves and check for leaks.
I am located in Patchogue, and will be ordering a replacement cable from catalina direct,which I will be installing in the next few weeks. You are welcome to watch, send me an email frich1230@aol.com
As for the pivot pin you spoke of, i think the previous reply was referring to the "turning ball" which guides the cable through the hull. This is easily inspected, while the boat is out of the water remove the radiator hose under the keel winch to do so. I will also be changing this. The Pivot pin is located foward of the keel cable, looking from under the boat under the keel trunk are (4) screws that access this area. I would advise a professional perform this operation!!!!!! I would also recommend getting a C25 handbook from catalina direct, or viewing the parts pages on the brochure link at our organizations web site.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> 1)Thru-Hulls: My C25 has the infamous To-Hulls. They seem to be solid, but heeding the forum warnings, I avoided using them. I showed the CD Thru-Hull replacements to my marina, and they strongly advised against them - saying the the nylon type could crack from freezing water. They recommend brass Thru-Hulls (according to the marina, prices are comparable). What does the Forum think?
Also, a quick (perhaps dumb) questions regarding below-waterline thru-hulls - when the seacock is open, what prevents water from following IN, instead of OUT? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> I won't argue against bronze (except that they aren't brass), but Marelon thru-hulls shouldn't freeze if you leave them open when on the hard in the winter. If you leave them closed with water inside, I wouldn't count on bronze not cracking--it happens to bronze spiggots on houses.
Regarding the flow, not only will it match the waterline, but it can be worse: When the boat pitches, the sudden force can push seawater up into the icebox or sink. That's the least of the reasons for being sure your seacocks are closed before sailing. The bigger reason is to prevent sinking if a hose lets go. Open them only when you need them--we leave the access hatch open when the seacock is open.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.