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BEST METHOD FOR LOWERING C25 MAST

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bevandcliff
Deckhand

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USA
4 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/18/2003 : 21:27:27

I need to lower my mast to replace the boom topping lift. My C25 is in the water and I was going to lower the mast back towards the stern. My plan was to use the Jib Halyard to hold the mast whilst I released the forestay. I was going to connect a sheave onto the bow plate and run a rope thru it and connect it to the forestay. The line would run back to one of the winches. That way I believe I can control the lowering until it reaches a point where I can reach the inclined mast and take the weight to lower it to the deck. I am aware of the need to release the f'ward side stays and to keep an eye on all the stays and turnbuckles when raising the mast. I was going to leave the foot of the mast in its bracket and allow the mast to pivot around the bolt.
I would appreciate if anyone has some lessons learned or suggestions to assist me.
Regards to all.

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2003 : 00:56:41

Cliff-
The Catalina mast is relatively heavy. If you have not done this before, I sugest you use an "A" frame or gin pole. A very capable "A" frame can be made for less than $10.00, or even for free if you have the items at home already: You just need two 12 foot long 2x4's from any place that sells lumber. Make sure they are as free of knotholes as possible. To make the "A" frame, bolt them together at one end with a 3/8" carriage bolt. Drill a couple of 1/2" holes at the other ends of each 2x4 to run lashings through. In the top end where they are bolted together, saw a slot 1/4" wide and 1" deep for the jib halyard to sit in. To set it up:
Loosely tie the bottoms of each 2/4 to the base of the lifeline stanchion closest to the upper shroud. You want the lashing to be secure, but not so tight that it can't rotate. Run the jib halyard through the slot you cut in point of the "A" frame, leaving the shackle just below the bottom of the 2x4's. Lash the halyard in place with 1/8 cord so it can't slip. Attach the boom end block of your mainsheet to the jib halyard shackle, and attach the main block of the sheet to the headstay chainplate on the bow. The "A" frame should make about a 90 degree angle to the mast and be long enough for the end to be just above the forestay chainplate. If 12' 2x4's aren't long enough, get 14' or 16' length. When the "A" frame is all set, take up the slack on the mainsheet, check to make sure the jib halyard is secure to it's cleat, and detach the headstay and forward lower shrouds. With one person controlling the mast and preventing sway from side to side, you can start slowly paying out mainsheet and lower the mast. Go slowwww, and during the process, keep a constant watch for anything that doesn't seem right and STOP lowering if there is any kind of hang-up. Keep an eye on the bases of your "A" frame to make sure they are rotating freely and the lashing aren't binding or overstressed.

The purpose of the "A" frame is to keep at least a 30 to 40 degree angle between the mast and the lifting force vector (the mainsheet and jib halyard in this example). If you don't use a gin pole or "A" frame, the effort required and the tension on the lifting equipment increaes rapidly as the mast is lowered, and the angle between the mast and lifting tackle decreases. This takes a few minutes to rig but makes the job much easier and safer, especially if you have never rigged a Catalina 25 and have no previous experience of just how heavy the mast is and what amount of effort is required to lift it. The most critical item to control is sidesway. Don't do this in a strong crosswind or in a sloping parking lot (on the trailer), until you have done it a few times and know what to expect. IMPORTANT-DON'T DO THIS ALONE YOUR FIRST TIME-GET A HELPER OR TWO!! Once you have developed a mast raising rig and procedures to control sidesway, single handed mast raising on a Catalina 25 isn't terribly difficult, but ignorance can bite you hard. Is there someone you know locally that has some experience and can help you with this? Also, make sure you have a mast crutch at least 6 or 7 feet long, measured from the cockpit floor, ready to lay the mast on. As the mast reaches the bottom of travel, if the crutch isn't tall enough, the mast will come to rest on the pop-top with enough weight and leverage to break the fiberglass, so watch out for this and make sure your crutch is tall enough.

When you un-pin the mast from the tabernackle, you will probably be leaning right over it; watch out! - it may be top heavy and pivot on the crutch, causing the base to jump up and smack you in the face, especially if you have a roller furler, which adds weight to the top of the mast. So, keep a firm hand on the mast base as you un-pin it so it can't jump up and do some unplanned dental work on your front teeth, or "put your eye out", as our Mom's always threatened us with when we were kids and had scissors in our hands :).

Good Luck!

Larry Charlot
Catalina 25 #1205 "Quiet Time"
Sacramento, CA

Edited by - lcharlot on 03/19/2003 01:13:56

Edited by - on

Doug
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2003 : 02:02:15

Take at least a couple of extra people. Try to find a place where you can tie up with a pier behind the boat and either another pier in front or running along side forward. You want to have someone in front of the boat with a line running from the halyard. That person controls how fast the mast falls. Second person starts at the mast. As the mast is lowerd from the front the 2nd person just kind walks it back. Again, the weight of the mast is mostly held by the line up front. The mast will come down quite a ways before you need to pull the pin. At that point it's nice to have someone behind the boat that can hold the mast. If not the person in the cockpit can hold it while the person that was forward releases the line and pulls the pin. Just remember your physics! When the pin is pulled the base of the mast will come up, but it's controllable. That's it. A few things to remember:
*It's big and heavy. More help= better safety
*Don't let it fall all the way without pulling the pin or you'll damage the mast plate.
*Remove forestay and forward shrouds, but only loosen the others a little. They'll help keep the mast from swinging to the side. Keep an eye on them though, and be ready to loosen a little more.
* If you take all the rigging off make sure you have them all back on when you put it back up. Once saw a mast lifted up, and then fall forward because they forgot to hook up the backstay.

Doug - #1913 Noeta

Edited by - on

osmepneo
Past Commodore

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USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2003 : 05:48:56

Since I have had the c25 I have my marina operator raise and lower the mast. It is alwqys an option.

Don Peet
c25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk
The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2003 : 10:20:02

Here is a fairly simple way to drop the mast without any additional accoutrements.

First - I would not recommend not doing it while on the water if at all possible. If you have to, make sure your keel is all the way down and tie off at all four corners if possible.

You can raise and lower the mast from either end, fore or aft. This winter, we have a huge stinkboat parked behind us and going aft would have damaged his bridge. Ergo we went forward
<font size=1>(side note: for those of you down south who have never seen an entire marina or yacht club on the hard for the winter it is quite and amazing site. Boats are placed next to each other barely enough room for a travel lift to slide in between them. For and aft, you'll find boats inches away from each other.)</font id=size1>

Detach the two aft lowers. Have at least one guy stand forward of the mast ready to "step the mast" down. Two is optimal (a tall dude helps too). Detach the aft stay and slowly let it go back to him. Until it reaches about 45 degrees, you will be in control with the aft stay in your hand. Some people I know attach a line to the aft stay and run it through the traveler so it can be cleated if they need to. After you hit the point where you aren't helping, hurry forward and help the dude(s) up front.

A few other things of note :
If you have halyards led aft - make sure you take them out of the clutch cleats. Same with any other lines.
Remove the boom
Disconnect any wires attaching the boom to the deck.

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 03/19/2003 : 10:32:52

Try using the boom vang between a cleated off jib halyard and the stem. It takes a long line here, but makes a nice "brake-able" forestay when the cable is released. I use an extendable mast crutch sold by CD and sits in the gudgeons, so the rudder must be removed.

My daughter and I can raise and lower our mast aft using this method and it has worked fine since 1983. I stay on the cabin top, not in the cockpit. A third person is nice to have in case there is a tangle, etc., but my daughter can always cleat off the vang to support the mast and is then free to unhook messes. I would have a 3rd the first few times at least.

I don't doubt the aid of the A frame, but I don't want/need to mess with the extra hardware. In a few more years, (I may make 60), then I might have to.....

With this method, which works even easier when raising the mast, the ONLY hairy part are the last few feet coming down. The vang/halyard loses its effectiveness and I have most of the weight. It's kind of heavy, but not unmanageable for me ( I am 200+, but no weight lifter) Hitting the crutch fork is critical. I have not missed yet! The 3rd person in the cockpit could be a benefit to "catch" the mast should the crutch get missed....

Hope this helps.

Gary B.
Encore! #685 SK/SR

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