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Balanced Rudder

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jfesi
Navigator

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USA
101 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/21/2003 : 16:23:26

I would appreciate some advice concerning the balanced rudder. We have an '84 std rig and we do some club racing on Long Island Sound during the summer (6 Saturdays and most Wednesdays). What are the advantages and disadvantages of the balanced rudder? Thanks, Bob Dutton, "Puff", #4336

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 03/21/2003 : 16:48:40

My old boat is a Catalina 22 with standard rudder. My new boat is a 25 wing with a balanced rudder. The 25 is easier to steer, more responsive, and less weather helm.

That is my opinion, I may be wrong.

If you do order a balanced rudder make sure you check all of the measurements as they made different sizes. For example, they have 3 size balanced rudders for the 1989 model, if you can believe that. I am currently ordering one and the Catalina parts folks and I have been faxing back and forth measurements.

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5932 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2003 : 14:17:57

I have the standard rudder on my 1981 C-25, and don't see a need for the balanced rudder if you take some time and adjust the rig properly. If you have too much weather helm, tilt the mast more forward, a little at a time, until the helm is light when beating to windward in medium winds. When the mast is properly adjusted, the boat will only have excessive weather helm when it is overpowered. In that case, when the weather helm becomes excessive, that is a clear indication to you that it is time to reduce sail area.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2003 : 15:50:01

I agree with Steve. While one of my friends has a balanced rudder and likes it, I haven't found the need. I try to read boat balance through the rudder/tiller. When I fight it, I know I need an adjustment of sail controls, etc. I am afraid I would lose that "feel" with a balanced rudder.

I remember once being in a car whose front end was so out of alignment that two front tires blew out because the inside of the tread wore through the tread and cords. The outside of the tire had new tread. The driver claimed he couldn't feel it because of the power steering. When people on the forum claim that the balanced rudder is "like power steering", I think I'll keep the old rudder! Just my opinion.......

Gary B.
#685 SK/SR

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 03/22/2003 : 16:04:11

Those are very good points on the unbalanced rudder. When on my 22 I experienced excessive weather helm I tighted my backstay and it really worked.

So with my balanced rudder what other ways would I know I need adjusting. From what I understand only 30 percent of the rudder area is forward of the pivot point so it seems to me that you still would get the feel you want. Or could my rig be in balance already? When in the keys in February the winds were 10 to 15 knots consistantly and it felt great. Maybe I was so pumped up I didn't notice.

But I was still surprised at how much more responsive the 25 is than my 22. I'll never regret getting a 25.

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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jim blotter
1st Mate

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26 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2003 : 19:33:44

I made a balanced rudder for our 1984 std rig. and boy do I notice a big differance. I am sold on the balanced rudder. My old rudder had apparently got water between the two halves , at one point froze and actually split in half. The boat is more responsive and I feel much easier to come about. After mine was installed , i had to do a little modification to actually get it to fit just right. So as the the other person who wrote in , besure and get the right measurments.
Happy Sailing

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2003 : 20:52:01

Bob: I'd say there's no advantage for racing, and maybe a very slight disadvantage. Abrupt course corrections cause drag, as does correction for excessive weather helm. The balanced rudder allows you to correct for weather helm and make quick course corrections without feeling most of the pressure that indicates drag. Note: The balanced rudder does not reduce or eliminate actual weather helm--it only reduces the tiller force required to correct for it.

On the plus side, the improved foil shape with a rounded leading edge seems to reduce the flutter or vibration that I felt with the original rudder, and for normal cruising and daysailing, it's like power steering. But I replaced my rudder because the original was damaged when I bought the boat.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 10:54:17

I would have to believe that Catalina Yachts re-engineered the C25's rudder for actual performance issues and not to simply "mask" weather helm nor compensate for people's inabilities to tune/balance their rigs.

<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>Don Lucier<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/c25sm.gif" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2cc32b3127cce92e981259d130000001010" border=0>
North Star SR/FK

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5932 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 11:42:09

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>So with my balanced rudder what other ways would I know I need adjusting. From what I understand only 30 percent of the rudder area is forward of the pivot point so it seems to me that you still would get the feel you want.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I agree that you will still have some feel with a balanced rudder, but it will be much more subtle than what you would experience with a standard rudder. Putting a balanced rudder doesn’t make the boat sail any better. It just makes it feel like it is sailing better. When a boat with a standard rudder becomes overpowered, that fact becomes apparent quickly and unmistakably through powerful tiller pressure. That tiller pressure tells you clearly that it is time to trim or reduce your sails. From what I have seen, sailors often ignore that clear message, and continue to sail overpowered long after they should have trimmed or reduced their sails. When a boat with a balanced rudder becomes overpowered, you don't have the powerful pull on the tiller screaming at you to trim or reduce your sails. It seems to me that, in the absence of that powerful pull, you might be lulled into thinking it isn’t necessary to trim or reduce sails. If you have the balanced rudder, you have to train yourself to pay attention to, and act upon, those subtler messages. The indicators that you have to look for are the same with either type of rudder, i.e. tiller pressure, excessive heel and reduction in speed (if you have a knotmeter).

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the balanced rudder. I just don’t think it is necessary in order to have a fast boat that is comfortably and easily steered. To me, using a balanced rudder lowers the volume of the boat's voice when it tries to tell me that its sails should be trimmed or reduced. Sometimes I need to be yelled at.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>[C]ould my rig be in balance already? When in the keys in February the winds were 10 to 15 knots consistantly and it felt great. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

It’s hard to say whether your rig is properly adjusted. When you have a balanced rudder, you can't rely on tiller pressure alone as an indicator. You have to look at all the indicators.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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Arlyn Stewart
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Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 14:04:20

Rig adjustment for a weathering course... adjust the mast rake so that the tiller has to be held 3-4 degree to weather to compensate for weather helm to hold course with optimum sail trim and heel.

Less rudder compensation than that...and the angle of attack of the keel and rudder is inadequate...more than that...and the lift to drag ratio gets bad.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1916 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 15:48:18

thanks for the great tips on sail trim with my balanced rudder.

As far as being screamed at, I thought that is what a deck wench was for.

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 20:58:03

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
As far as being screamed at, I thought that is what a deck wench was for.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
When my leeward wench moves to the windward side, I begin to suspect that I might need to reduce sail. <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 22:49:42

OK, Arlyn, I understand the theory, but have noticed that my forestay seems to be too long to shorten any further to rake the mast foreward as a means to reduce weather helm.

But, regardless, the weather helm only becomes excessive in a blow. In a blow the boat tends to go much faster. When the boat goes faster it pushes a bigger bow wave. As the boat climbs the wave, the mast effectively rakes aft, increasing weatherhelm. So how does mast adjustment remain effective? I can see that by trimming and depowering the sails I can reduce the effect by reducing speed, but the mast rake seems a very touchy way to reduce the effect. Is there any risk of inducing lee helm, a riskier condition?

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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Response Posted - 03/24/2003 : 23:46:29

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>[I] have noticed that my forestay seems to be too long to shorten any further to rake the mast foreward as a means to reduce weather helm.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

It sounds like your forestay and backstay are out of adjustment. Tie a line to the shackle on your jib halliard, and then tie the line securely to your bow cleat. Then tie a line to the shackle on your main halliard, and then tie that line securely to a stern cleat. These two lines will hold your mast up temporarily.

Next, unscrew the turnbuckle on your forestay until it comes completely off. Then do the same with your backstay turnbuckle. Be careful not to lose any parts.

Next, start to screw the headstay turnbuckle back on by just a couple of threads. Then do the same with the backstay turnbuckle.

Now, alternately tighten the headstay turnbuckle and the backstay turnbuckle by an equal number of turns, until the stays become taut.

By doing this, you will make sure that there is room to adjust the two turnbuckles. After you have done that, when you want to tilt the mast forward, you loosen the backstay a few turns, and then tighten the forestay by an equal number of turns.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>But, regardless, the weather helm only becomes excessive in a blow.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

That’s the way it should be. If your rig is tuned correctly, you will have a light weather helm in normal winds. Weather helm will only become excessive when the wind pipes up and the boat is overpowered. When weather helm is excessive, that tells you that it is time to trim or reduce your sails. When you do so, the weather helm will diminish.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>I can see that by trimming and depowering the sails I can reduce the effect [of excessive weather helm] by reducing speed<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Speed doesn’t cause excessive weather helm. It is caused by excessive heeling. The purpose of depowering your sails is to reduce heeling. By reducing excessive heeling, the boat speed will actually increase, while weather helm decreases.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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5932 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 12:53:47

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>When the boat goes faster it pushes a bigger bow wave. As the boat climbs the wave, the mast effectively rakes aft, increasing weatherhelm. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

This raises an interesting question.

When the mast pitches fore and aft as the boat climbs up and slides down waves, that doesn’t have any effect on weatherhelm. When the boat climbs up and down waves, that changes the orientation of the mast in relation to the earth. When you adjust your mast by tilting it forward or aft, that changes the orientation of the mast in relation to the boat. When you change the orientation of the mast in relation to the boat, you are moving the Center of Effort (CE) of the sail plan in relation to the Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) of the keel and underwater surfaces. The CE is the centerpoint of all the driving forces exerted by the wind on the sail plan. The CLR is the centerpoint of all the resisting forces exerted by the keel and underwater surfaces. When the CE is too far aft, the boat will have excessive weather helm. As the CE is moved forward in relation to the CLR, the amount of weather helm decreases. The orientation of the mast in relation to the earth doesn’t change the relationship between the CE and CLR.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 17:03:28

Steve... I think I've changed my mind and think boat pitch does effect CE/CLR balance. On the c250... boat ballance plays into the equation of adjusting the mast rake. The hint of this being true is that placing sand bags or batteries forward in the V berth locker significantly reduces adverse weather helm.

This seems contrary as more wetted surface aft moves the CLR aft. So what is happening is that the net gain is in favor of the CE going forward.

And, I think boat speed does have an effect. The faster the boat goes... the more drag and the greater amount of that extra drag is forward having the effect of pulling the bow down and moving the CLR forward with increasing speed. However, with the bow going down, the CE goes forward also (though probably a lot of that is due to the apparent wind taking the lift point forward)so the "lead" distance doesn't change that much and speed alone doesn't offer a net loss or gain to weather helm. In fact speed is a good thing because it provides greater lift and a faster passage to weather.

Steve is right, the far bigger culprit is heel....but I see your point about speed.

Wore out sails with big pockets or a loose rig without a backstay tensioner don't allow the CE to shift forward as the CLR does with increasing speed. When going to weather...harden the backstay and flatten the main and jib.

I can see that wore out sails or a loose rig going to weather would increase weather helm due to speed.

Another thing you might look at besides your sails or rig tuning is how well does your boat set on its water line. Try moving the CE forward with some bow weight if its squatting on the stern.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
283 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 19:24:28

Steve,

The problem with adjusting the rake on my mast is the lack of turnbuckle adjustment at the bottom of the headstay. It's already as tight as she'll go. I do have a split backstay and use that to flatten the main in heavy air. My standing rigging is due for an inspection. When I replace the forestay it will be made a couple inches shorter.

Arlyn,

I think my next project as part of rewiring will be to move the batteries to under the vee berth. That should improve the mast rake situation. I'm just trying to form a good plan as to how to secure them. I wouldn't want them coming loose on a beat and taking out the through hull!

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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USA
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Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 19:39:27

Arlyn,

One other thought. You said, "The faster the boat goes... the more drag and the greater amount of that extra drag is forward having the effect of pulling the bow down..". I always thought my bow came up with speed since I noticed the water level on the rudder was higher. Come to think of it, this may have been while motoring. I'll have to check next time I'm out and see if it happens under sail. I always assumed that under sail it did the same thing due to the boat trying to climb the bow wave. With the center of effort being well above the deck, I can see that this exerts a moment that tries to drive the bow down. The question is: which force is greater? You're probably right, but I have to square it with my mental model of what is going on.

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3324 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 19:54:59

Reluctantly I have to jump in here... I used to have the original issue rudder. In 10 knots the tiller was under my chin because the weather helm was enormous! I bought the 2nd generation one and could not believe the difference. WITH THE SAME SAIL PLAN AND IN THE SAME CONDITIONS I NOW HAVE 2 FINGER STEERING AND ABOUT 4 DEGREES OF WEATHER HELM.
As y'all know, I carry a VERY loose rig, about 8" - 10" sag in the forestay with the backstay off (which is 99% of the time). I cannot imagine having a taut rig...it's so darn slow! The only time you want the mast to go forward is when running, which powers up the genoa.
Just MHO....
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 21:01:39

To add to Derek's comments about the rig (from a guy who crews on other boats but doesn't race his C-25), I don't understand what a backstay adjuster will do for the mains'l on a masthead rig like the C-25. Backstay adjusters flatten mainsails if they can bend the mast, which you can't really do with a masthead rig unless you crank down the forward lowers like piano wires. Thus, the backstay won't flatten the main--it will only take the sag out of the luff of the jib. That depowers the jib and helps for pointing, but I don't see it depowering the main to reduce weather helm--on the contrary, I suspect it could increase weather helm as it depowers the jib.

Many racing sloops have fractional rigs that promote mast bending, which can flatten the main like a board. Most racer-cruisers don't, and thus give up some shaping capabilities in favor of larger, more powerful headsails.

But then I'm not a racing skipper--I'm just a grinder... <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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Gloss
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 21:38:08

OK, I'm really confused now. If the backstay adjuster took out the weatherhelm on my C22, why wouldn't it on the C25?
Both rigs are set up the same, fore and backstay to the head.

And another thing, if you are a grinder, and you bump into something, what are you doing then?

Frank Gloss
89WK/TR

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 21:58:49

Dave,

How can you tension the fore stay (.."take the sag out of the luff of the jib..") with the aft stay unless the mast head moves aft? The bend won't be as much as with a fractional rig, but there must be some effect.

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 23:19:26

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
How can you tension the fore stay (.."take the sag out of the luff of the jib..") with the aft stay unless the mast head moves aft? The bend won't be as much as with a fractional rig, but there must be some effect.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I guess if you have lots of tension on the forward lowers with the forestay and backstay loose, then cranking down the backstay may bend the mast a little. I know a J-24 (masthead rig) can do it, but that's with a lightweight, tapered mast. Do you other people run with heavy tension on the forward lowers? (Sorry--this has wandered far from the question about the balanced rudder, but that's how things go when we northerners are stuck on the hard.)

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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eric.werkowitz
Captain

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Response Posted - 03/25/2003 : 23:45:05

Dave,

I don't use a lot of tension on the front lower shrouds, but they are tighter than the aft ones. But, to be honest, I'm not sure how much bend I get, either. Maybe tomorrow night I'll wander down to the dock and try it. (I live in Florida, I don't own a hard!)

Eric Werkowitz
C25 #4969

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 07:31:44

While I realize that Catamarans and mono hulls have their differences...when a cat goes fast...both crew have to move full aft to keep the bows from submarining and pitchpoling. This is due to increasing drag forward.

I agree Derek, your loose settup allows you to tune for either upwind or downwind performance...or varying wind strengths and is necessary to be compeditive.

And... I hope none of my comments about speed adding to weather helm distracted from the idea that excess heel is the far greater contributor to weather helm.

I would rather say it this way...that speed sets the table for the problem. Excessive heel without speed is not a problem. It is the two combined together.

The big point I tried to make was the CE and CLR are not static...they are moving around due to varying influences. Flatter sails move the CE forward as does forward mast rake and I think boat pitch forward.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5932 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 11:53:23

Arlyn and Gary,

When I said “speed doesn’t cause excessive weather helm” I was mistaken. I looked up the subject in Wallace Ross’ "Sail Power." He said, as the windspeed increases, the CE moves aft, and that increases weather helm. When that happens, you trim your sails to flatten them and to move the draft of the sails forward. That moves the CE forward, which reduces weather helm. But the purpose of trimming your sails in that situation is not to reduce your speed. The purpose is to reduce your heeling and weather helm, which lets the boat sail more upright. When the boat sails upright, drag is greatly reduced and your speed increases. The ideal is to achieve a balance, maximizing speed while minimizing weather helm and heeling.

I think I was also mistaken when I said, “The orientation of the mast in relation to the earth doesn’t change the relationship between the CE and CLR.” Wallace Ross didn’t discuss this exact question, but the general principles he described seem to apply. Imagine that you are looking at a sailboat from the side. Assume that the center of effort of the sail plan (CE) is approximately halfway up the mast, and a few inches aft of the mast. Drop a plumb line straight down from the CE to the keel. If the boat has a weather helm, the CLR will ordinarily be located on the keel, a few inches forward of the plumb bob. If you pitch the boat forward (bow down), the CE will rotate slightly forward, and the plumb bob will swing forward a few inches, towards the CLR. Moving the CE forward, closer to the CLR, will reduce weather helm. As you said, that explains why 300 lbs. in the bow of a C-250 reduces weather helm.

I still don’t think that, in ordinary sailing conditions, the pitch of a sailboat has much of an effect on weather helm, because the bow pitches up and down with every wave, which cancels out any significant effect that it might have on weather helm. It makes a difference when you add 300 lbs to the bow of a C-250, because you have made the bow-down pitch of the boat a permanent condition.

I’ve never been sold on the idea of adding 300 lbs to the bow of a boat in order to pitch the bow-down and reduce weather helm, for three reasons. (1) It takes wind power to push that 300 lbs around all the time. In the absence of that 300 lbs, that wind power would be used to make your boat go faster. (2) When you pitch the boat bow-down, the stern is raised. That will make the boat faster downwind, but it will make it slower to windward. The effect is to shorten your effective waterline length, which reduces the boat’s hull speed to windward, and I suspect it also contributes to leeward drift while beating to windward. (3) Adding 300 lbs to the bow of a boat is only one way that you can reduce weather helm. There are other ways of reducing weather helm that don’t waste wind power, and that don’t shorten your effective waterline length. You can either move the CE forward, or move the CLR aft.

Some C-250 racer is going to experiment with different ways of configuring his boat, and find the configuration that is the most efficient on all tacks. Whoever analyzes it correctly and gets the best overall performance out of his boat is likely to run away from the others at the nationals.

Frank,

You said: <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>If the backstay adjuster took out the weatherhelm on my C22, why wouldn't it on the C25? Both rigs are set up the same, fore and backstay to the head. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

The backstay adjuster will work on the C-25, but there is a difference between the rigs of the C-22 and the C-25 that makes the C-22 easier to adjust. The C-22 only has one pair of lower shrouds and one pair of uppers. The C-25 has two pairs of lowers and one pair of uppers. Adjusting the shrouds correctly on a C-25 is more complicated, and if you don’t get it right, a backstay adjuster won’t work.

Eric,

You asked: <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>How can you tension the fore stay (.."take the sag out of the luff of the jib..") with the aft stay unless the mast head moves aft? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

When you put tension on the backstay adjuster, the masthead does move aft a little bit, but the lower part of the mast bows forward, pulling a lot of sailcloth forward with it. The overall effect is to move the CE forward, which reduces weather helm.

When you set up the rig of a C-25 with an adjustable backstay, you leave considerable sag in the forestay and backstay, and you put tension on the forward lowers. The aft lowers are left relatively loose. When you put tension on the adjustable backstay, the forward lowers prevent the lower part of the mast from tilting aft. Only the upper part of the mast bends aft. When the forestay and backstay become tight, they put downward pressure on the mast. That downward pressure causes the mast to bow forward in the middle. Because the aft lowers are loose, that looseness allows the mast to bow forward. The aft lowers should be adjusted, however, so that, as the mast bows forward, they draw tight before the mast bends far enough to risk breaking it.

With regard to the balanced rudder, Derek likes it. I don’t dislike it. I just don’t think it will make your boat any faster. I think it is truly a matter of personal preference.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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