Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I bought a "Pop Top Power Lift" for my 25TR/FK and then discovered that I have to unstep the mast to complete the installation. I hate the thought of doing this and wondered if anyone on this marvelous forum has ever installed the Power Lift and if it can be done without unstepping the mast?
Frank, The Admrial and I will be going to Lake Don Pedro on the 28th. Why don't you just unstep the mast load that puppy on a trailer and head on out and we can install the new top at the same time.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
I've been considering buying the poptop power lift myself, but I didn't know the mast had to be down to install it. Do you know why?
I have to unstep my mast in the near future to complete several projects on the mast ... I'm wondering if I should go ahead and order the power lift kit so I can install it at the same time. I sure can't figure out why the mast needs to be down <img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
Would someone please explain why you would want (or need) a "power lift pop-top"?? What's wrong with just shoving it up by hand? It's easy and has to be a heck of a lot cheaper <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Or has the K.I.S.S. principle been abandoned <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle> Derek
I'm 6' 1", 62 years old and I work out with a personal trainer twice a week. However, it takes two men and a baby jackass to push the pop top into the raised position. There's no easy way to use a block and tackle.
<font color=blue>Would someone please explain why you would want (or need) a "power lift pop-top"?? What's wrong with just shoving it up by hand? - Derek</font id=blue>
I have the "original" traditional interior, or what has also been called the L-shaped dinette. I built a new table for the main cabin, and now that I've installed it, it is hard to get directly underneath the poptop where you can get some leverage on it. I suspect that people who have a dinette interior have the same problem. If you have a traditional layout, you can get underneath the poptop, get good leverage, and lift with your legs ... I can no longer do that.
Also, my two daughters aren't strong enough to raise the poptop, and I suspect there are lots of "admirals" out there who aren't strong enough to lift it either. Although expensive, it seems to me the power lift is worth it if you raise the poptop often ... if you live where it is HOT, you probably fall into that category.
Aside from the expense, there is at least one downside of the power lift ... your poptop must be either locked down, or raised all the way. If you like to sail with the poptop propped slightly open (using "noodles" or homemade braces), you won't be able to do that with the power lift installed.
I think I just talked myself into buying the damn thing ... 'time to call Catalina Direct.
I bought and installed the pop top lift without stepping the mast. And yes it is one of the best things added to boat. It was a real killer to lift pop top. Now it is harder to close than to open. Lifting it takes one hand with little effort. Now onto how to do it. You have to compress the cylinders. I used a floor jack. The process was quite easy. On the bottom side of my deck steps stringer I attached a wooden block. This was a stop for the cylinder to rest against while I jacked (compressed) with the floor jack. I used plumbers tape, the metal tape with holes in it. The key is to compress the cylinders to the specified mounting distance, off the top of my head I think it is 10 3/4 inches center line of mounting socket to center line of mounting socket. The instruciton book tells you the distance. Cut 2 pieces of plumbers tape about 18 inches long and bend in half. Tha gives you two U shaped pieces, put one on each end of the cylinder, get it all into postion between the block and floor jack and start jacking. Stop at the correct length and put a bolt through plumbers tape on each side. For safety so that the hole thing does not fly apart on the way to boat I put 2 pieces of duct tape around the assemblies. Follow the rest of the instructions in the book that came with the cylinders.
The book makes a big deal about installing with the mast down so you know where the preloaded point is when you raise the pop top in the event you will take this off someday so that you don't try to remove a cylinder with any compression on it. The compression is about 130 pounds. This was very simple and took about two hours for entire job. If you get stuck email and I will give you phone number and I will try to explain better.
My issue with the pop-top has less to do with the lifting effort, and more with the danger of it falling and hitting someone on the way down - I have a 3 year old who moves around the deck quite a bit while at anchor. I'm terrified the thing might come down on him, or jam a body-part under the edge of it. The locking assembly seems pretty safe, but I don't want to risk it. I'm getting the power lift ASAP.
Thank you. I have seen it at Home Depot but didn't know that is what they call it.
By the way ... I have a "BoomKicker" on our boat. So I just lift our top a few inches for better ventilation when at the dock. The gas spring kit is tempting though ...
to me the biggest problem with my pop top is how to keep those darn swinging bolts (or wahtever they are called) out of the way so you can in fact lift it. I thought I might make some small loops of mini sized bungee cord to pull them out of the way. It would be nice if they were made with some kind of spring to swing them out of the way. Then they would be out of the way when lowering too and take the strain off the catch.
The pop top lift kit includes clips to hold the latches up out of the way. I don't know if they sell them separately. Before I bought the kit I made my own using the self adhesive cable ties. They are available at the container store, they are white and are a locking clip kind of thing. I will look at the package next time I am inthe sotre and post. I cut of the locikng part and simple use the clip part loop. I use them onthe v berth hatch. They are great and make it alot easier. I don't have a digital camera.
<font color=blue>to me the biggest problem with my pop top is how to keep those darn swinging bolts (or wahtever they are called) out of the way so you can in fact lift it. - Frank</font id=blue>
Hi Frank,
I know what you mean ... 'seems like those things go out of their way to hook themselves back in the brackets just as you are giving the poptop your best push up!
I solved the problem by using that "sticky tack" stuff that is used to mount things on a wall without using a nail or a screw ... it looks like a wad of bubble gum. I keep a little wad of that stuff on the two screws in the poptop and also the two screws in the forward hatch. It works great ... the sticky stuff holds the bolts out of the way so you can open/close the poptop or forward hatch without the hardware getting in the way.
Give it a try ... it makes things much easier, and it's cheap & easy.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I just run the knob back up the threads far enough that they can't catch<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I do the same -- just loosen the big wing nut, swing the bolt out of the catch, then with the other hand tighten the wing nut a couple turns so it rests on the side of the catch -- eliminates the possibility of the wing nut catching while leg pressing the poptop into position. Also automatically swings the bolt to the inside while bringing the poptop back down. No need for unsightly velcro, bubble gum, etc.
Thanks to everyone for the input, especially GERDO, I have no doubt that I will be in touch. As to why I need it; I am only 5' 9" and 71, the Admiral is younger and shorter, plus I keep worrying that I will pull something that will affect my golf game.
I have been planning to install the gas springs. (my wife and I together have a hard time lifting the poptop. I really appreciate all of the replies on this subject, but no one seems to address the subject as to why you would have to drop the mast to install. From all of the comments I would assume that it is not necessary (to drop the mast).
Apparently the key is preloading the gas springs. I assume that the directions that come with the springs address the subject of where and how to mount them./
You are my hero. Golfing and sailing at 71. Way to go. don't screw up your golf game. A man has got to have priorities.
Back to the pop top. Thanks to gerdo for telling us about the clips with the pop top kit. I ordered 4 today. They go for 2.50 each at CD. They aren't a regular item, but Lindsey at CD is one of the smartest and best salepersons in this industry and she fixed me up. She knows her Catalina stuff, and if she doesn't she will tell you, and then find out the answer. You gotta respect that.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I bought and installed the pop top lift without stepping the mast. And yes it is one of the best things added to boat. It was a real killer to lift pop top. Now it is harder to close than to open. Lifting it takes one hand with little effort. Now onto how to do it. You have to compress the cylinders. I used a floor jack. The process was quite easy. On the bottom side of my deck steps stringer I attached a wooden block. This was a stop for the cylinder to rest against while I jacked (compressed) with the floor jack. I used plumbers tape, the metal tape with holes in it. The key is to compress the cylinders to the specified mounting distance, off the top of my head I think it is 10 3/4 inches center line of mounting socket to center line of mounting socket. The instruciton book tells you the distance. Cut 2 pieces of plumbers tape about 18 inches long and bend in half. Tha gives you two U shaped pieces, put one on each end of the cylinder, get it all into postion between the block and floor jack and start jacking. Stop at the correct length and put a bolt through plumbers tape on each side. For safety so that the hole thing does not fly apart on the way to boat I put 2 pieces of duct tape around the assemblies. Follow the rest of the instructions in the book that came with the cylinders.
The book makes a big deal about installing with the mast down so you know where the preloaded point is when you raise the pop top in the event you will take this off someday so that you don't try to remove a cylinder with any compression on it. The compression is about 130 pounds. This was very simple and took about two hours for entire job. If you get stuck email and I will give you phone number and I will try to explain better.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> GERDO, I just installed the power lifters using the method you described. Since I am technically challenged it was not easy but it was easier than unstepping the mast. My major problem was getting somwher to use the jacks. Anyhow they are on and it is so easy to raise the top. Thanks for your help.
Glad to hear it worked for you. As noted I used the bottom side of the deck steps stringer with a block of wood attached and my floor jack. Only mistake I made was when I compressed the springs I had the ball sockets of the springs facing the same direction. No big deal had to uncompress and turn one end around. Big deal is it is an hour each way to my boat.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.