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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

furling line fairleads

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Eric Dove
1st Mate

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37 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/26/2003 : 12:14:46

I've got an '83 C25 TR SK and I'm installing a new headsail furler. Any suggestions on what type of setup to use for the furling line fairleads, blocks, cleat, etc.? There's a lot of options out there....just wondering what arrangements have worked for others.

Thanks!

Eric Dove on Adelaide

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 12:49:47

What side of the drum does your furler line come off of. Mine comes off the port side. I run the furl line down the Stbd. side of the boat using blocks at the base of the stantions (spelling) then aft to behind my last Stbd. winch to a jaw type cleat. The blocks at the stations are held vertical with small bugee cords so it keeps the line up off the deck out of the way and dry.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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Eric Dove
1st Mate

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37 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 14:48:29

Thanks....I can set it up either way, but I think stbd seems to be the most common side.

Eric Dove on Adelaide

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dgabel
1st Mate

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USA
75 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 17:13:15

Mine came down the port side when I bought the boat, so I left it that way. Has blocks for the two middle stanchions, and a jam/horn cleat set outside the middle of the cockpit. I added a fairlead on the first stanchion on the bow pulpit because I had a problem with the line not feeding properly onto the drum.

Seems to work just fine.

Dave Gabel
Walkure
Sail 1484

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Daniel
1st Mate

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78 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2003 : 17:58:20

I recently installed a CDI FF4 on my C25 (1980) SR FK. I replaced one of the bow pulpit screws (at the base of the forward stanchion of the bow pulpit) with a similar-sized Wichard eyebolt to which a small block was attached for leading the furling line off the drum. The angle worked out OK and I was trying not to drill any more holes in the deck. I then led the line to port, but could have gone to stb, using a Schaefer block kit for the purpose. However, I think the kit was probably unnecessary, since the exit angle from the eyebolt-mounted block down along the stanchions to the cockpit was not very sharp. Rather, I think I could have gotten by with just some bullseye fairleads installed on the stanchions (there is a rotating one for the aft stanchion I would attach to the bow pulpit). I have horn and jam cleats on the coaming already for the sheets but may put some kind of separate jam or cam cleat for the furling line. Works real well and was pretty simple.

The only other change I might make is the small block leading the furling line off the drum should really be a 'standup' kind, adding a spring or other way of keeping it from settling down sideways onto the deck. That really isn't a problem but just a refinement.

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Eric Dove
1st Mate

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37 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2003 : 10:24:11

Thanks....your setup sounds very close to what I had in mind. Good to hear it confirmed.

Eric Dove on Adelaide

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2003 : 23:25:04

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
The only other change I might make is the small block leading the furling line off the drum should really be a 'standup' kind, adding a spring or other way of keeping it from settling down sideways onto the deck. That really isn't a problem but just a refinement.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I recommend a block clamped to the pulpit, simply because you can adjust it up or down to get just the right lead angle to the drum, which prevents jams from uneven winding. Just a little tension on the furling line as you pull the jib out keeps the block in the right position and keeps the coil snug on the drum.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2003 : 01:12:18

It really doesn't matter what side your line leads back. The MOST important thing to do is to make sure that the line from the drum of the furling gear has a fair lead.

As the folks have mentioned, there are many ways to do this. First, read the instructions with your new furling gear. Then figure out how it will work for you. There are many gear manufacturers who make stanchion blocks to run the furling line back. You have fixed, swivel, inside and outside choices.

Many have used ratchet blocks at the cockpit end, but we find it handy and less expensive to just keep hand pressure on the line as the jib is unfurled. A simle pulpit mounted cleat is used to tie off the line when unfurled and the same cleat is used to tie off the line when furled with the extra length of line simply coiled and tied to the pulpit.

In any event, you'll enjoy your new system.

Just (repeat the mantra) make the fair lead from the drum per the manufacturers (do it straight at a 90 degree angle) directions. That's the key to avoiding problems.

Best,

Stu

PS

"my" definitions:

fair lead means a neat straight line from point A to B

fairlead are the blocks used to get there

Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 No. 224 1986 on 03/28/2003 01:13:52

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Eric Dove
1st Mate

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37 Posts

Response Posted - 03/28/2003 : 09:18:33

Thanks all....Combining everyone's advice and staring blankly at the whole setup for another good spell, I think I've got a good system figured out. Can't wait til splashdown!

Eric Dove on Adelaide

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/31/2003 : 19:35:40

I just had one thing to add....on my setup a CDI FF4 the bulseyes are attached to the port stanchions. I included a large racheting block on the aft pulpit stanchion which reverses the furling line back to a cam cleat aft of the port winch. With the furling line aligned with the winch I can use it to furl or reef in an increasing blow, and the racheting block gives you some relief from having to pull constantly as you are bringing in the sail. I found that when single handing bringing in the sail and letting out the jib sheet at the same time was easier working fore to aft rather than pulling in the same direction you are releasing.

good luck in your set up, hope our experiences are helpful.

John V. Nin Bimash II
77 C25 sk/sr #153

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