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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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Can you please tell me what size line for main halyard, and also can one be replaced with out taking down the mast. I have a wire/ rope on now and would like to replace with rope. Thanks Robert
I'm afraid you can't replace your existing halyard with rope without destepping (taking down) your mast. The reason is that the sheaves (pulleys) are made for wire and are too narrow for rope. You'll need to drop the mast and replace the sheaves with wider units. There are some threads in the archives that discuss this operation. Another option is to modify the mast and gear for internal halyards. This requires significantly more work, but little difference in cost. Let us know if you want more information on that approach.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Can you please tell me what size line for main halyard, and also can one be replaced with out taking down the mast. I have a wire/ rope on now and would like to replace with rope. Thanks Robert
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>Robert, running rigging for Main halyards I believe are 3/8". Also, I have a neighbor at my marina that replaced his wire/rope system without stepping the mast. He went to the top of his mast via a Bosuns Chair, with sheaves in hand, also new lines sewed to the standing end of halyard along with temporary line to the sheckled end of his mainsail and halyard wire making sure this line is not to short to raise the sail that should be lased to the boom so as not to rise. Once a top the mast, replaced the sheaves, pulled the lines up fair leading them thru the mast, to the top and leading them through the sheave between the pin and down the outside to the head of his mainsail. and did the same to his headsail (jib) halyard. Ah- not in one trip, two trips up the mast. He also used his topping lift for a back up safety line; his primary jib halyard to go up the first time and of course the new main on the second trip, when he replaced the jib system. At the bottom of the mast, he had the prepare size sheaves for the rope end of the original rigging… I think if I would be facefaced with the task, I will have to take the boat to a marina where they have a lift bucket or where they might have a shear legs. I haven’t seen shear legs since moving to Florida. Do folks still use them...? Good luck.
My opinion is that you have to replace the sheaves, alhough I heard of somebody using the wire sheaves with rope halyards. I can tell you that the rope does not fit fully into the groove of the wire sheave.
Catalina Direct sells 5/16" Krypton II line for all-rope halyards on the C-25. They also sell the replacement sheaves, but for an external setup (4 sheaves), the diameter is just a little too small. You have two choices that I know of:
A. Use CD's sheaves and grind away a little of the masthead casting so the halyard doesn't drag across the sharp edge, or...
B. Contact Ed at Bellpat Marine in East Patchogue, Long Island, (631-286-8368) and ask for a set of C-25 rope halyard sheaves. He knows just what you need, and makes them himself--about $7 each, as I recall. Quite a few folks on this forum have used him. We all looked everywhere else and couldn't find the required dimensions.
The 5/16 line is just right for the sheaves, and mine didn't stretch at all with constant, heavy tension on the jib halyard that has to pull the roller furlor drum tight against the stem fitting. Spinlock clutches (1/4"-1/2") hold the 5/16" just fine.
Good luck, and get back to us with any other questions...
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Your best bet is to enlist 2 or 3 friends and drop the mast. I have replaced my halliards and/or sheaves a couple of times, and it is difficult to hold onto all the little parts and position them. There is a spacer plate, the sheeves, the sheeve pins and the cotter pins, not to mention your tools. The job doesn't take long after the mast is down. The bosun's chair is raised by a halliard, and, offhand, I don't see how you can replace the sheaves while there is tension on one halliard. Nelson said he saw someone do it, but he had to go up the mast twice. I'd rather drop the mast and put it back up than go up the mast twice, and perhaps more if I drop parts into the bay.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...The bosun's chair is raised by a halliard, and, offhand, I don't see how you can replace the sheaves while there is tension on one halliard. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Ya, how would you do that?? Hold on really tight to the mast for a few minutes while fiddling with all those parts?
BTW, with the mast down, I had no trouble doing the sheave replacement with just my two hands. For some reason, though, I had to buy new pins--the originals were just a few mils too fat for the new sheaves, but new pins were perfect. <img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...The bosun's chair is raised by a halliard, and, offhand, I don't see how you can replace the sheaves while there is tension on one halliard. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Ya, how would you do that?? Hold on really tight to the mast for a few minutes while fiddling with all those parts?
your right - I did finish the message with the following.
"I think if I would be face with the task, I will have to take the boat to a marina where they have a lift bucket or where they might have a shear legs. <img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>
I have been using 5/16" for four years with the old sheaves without a single problem and my main goes up smooth and easy. I can't speak for all models, but when we did have the mast down, my rigger at the time looked at them and we fed some line into them and they are v-shaped (the boat came to me with worn out wire halyards) and get wider on the outside, the line fits perfectly in that upper groove. The only reason I would consider the CD upgrade is that they are nicer delrin ball bearings and I'm sure make it easier to pull up, but with a half batten main, I've never had a problem with it being too hard. To each their own, I certainly hope mine never jumps the sheave, but hey, if it does, I'll deal with it then and save that money/time now for play and sailing. Good luck which ever way you go!
Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR
Thanks for all the post to my question. I think for now { because the weather is turning nice} I will stick it out with the wire to rope halyard and in the fall will do the complete change over with new sheaves and rope halyards. Again thanks for your input. Robert Murphy
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.