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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Trailer Brakes

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/01/2003 : 16:47:01

As some of you might recall, I had an unpleasant surprise when I brought in my trailer for required PA inspection and was informed that I needed brakes on all wheels. After some back and forth it turns out this was a surprise to me, the dealer that sold me the boat (out of state) Catalina and Trail-Rite.
The second axle brakes are an option when you order the trailer new.
I contacted trail rite and talked to friendly knowledgeable people that took all the parts pieces necessary to convert to 4wheel brakes and UPS'ed them out to me. Damage a little over 6 BU's including shipping. As I recall, this is only marginally more than the 4wheel brake option, so all I'm really going to be out is my time.
So, even though I seem to be the only one on this forum that has manoeuvered himself into this corner, I am hereby asking whether there is interest in me documenting the actual procedure, whith visuals, so that If some other poor soul has or wants to do this I can (maybe) save him from making the mistakes I am about to make......<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Oscar
<img src="http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/Images/familypics/LKforumshot.jpg" border=0>
Lady Kay 250 WB #618
In the driveway in Behtlehem, PA ready to go anytime.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2003 : 19:44:37

Oscar, I'll save ya one mistake, go the extra effort to use synthetic brake fluid. Mmy trailer brakes went bad within three years... and had never seen salt water...The problem was the typical rust within the system that ate up the cups and had the brakes leaking and sticking with rust.

It takes some effort because the old fluid needs to be completely purged from the system... but it will add many seasons between brake jobs.

The synthetic fluid doesn't sponge moisture and rust the brake cylinders.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

Edited by - arlyn stewart on 04/01/2003 19:47:35

Edited by - on

Ben - FL
Admiral

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880 Posts

Response Posted - 04/01/2003 : 22:22:07

Hey Arlyn,
Took your advice and told the people at Fat Cats Trailers to use synthetic. He had never heard of it. But he did find it. Says it's not for water use, but for racing. However, seeing the condition of my brakes I had it put in anyway. Cost me $700+ for all new brakes and lines on two wheels. They discovered the original brakes didn't have the D washers installed either. And it seems Florida also requires brakes on all wheels or none at all.

Safe voyages,
Ben, FL s/v Chick-a-pea C250wk
<img src="http://www.members.aol.com:/benraye/pictures/fullsail.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2003 : 07:09:38

Ben....your right... the synthetic fluid is designed for racing to sustain higher temperatures... and its about three times the price of standard fluid... but it also doesn't absorb moisture.

It won't be pushed by the brake industry because it will reduce their sales significantly.

When I talked to Champion Trailers about its use... there response was..."Well, you could use it" and "No, there wouldn't be any ill effects from its use".

I had to rebuild brakes after three years... Its now been four years and the fluid inside the actuator resevoir remains perfectly clear looking...and I think this means there is no rust in the system.

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

Edited by - on

Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 04/02/2003 : 14:10:20

Hygroscopic (readily absorbing moisture/Webster) is the operative word here. It's for that very reason that Rolls Royce went to synthetic fluid in its very high pressure (2000+psi) braking and suspension system in the Silver Shadows in the late seventies.......they call it RR360 but it's the same stuff.
Anyway, that's very good advice from you folks I will heed it.
I judge from your reactions that I can speed up the process and skip the photo session. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Oscar
<img src="http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/Images/familypics/LKforumshot.jpg" border=0>
Lady Kay 250 WB #618
In the driveway in Behtlehem, PA ready to go anytime.

Edited by - on

BJ Wagner
1st Mate

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USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2003 : 13:06:28

Speaking of trailer brakes, can anyone give me some ideas on keeping the water out of the brake actuator on the coupler. I have a wing keel that is rope launched as we use it and now I seem to have water in the system, even though the cap is on tight.

Brad Wagner
C-250 Wing Keel #361
Lake Pleasant, AZ

Edited by - on

Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2003 : 13:33:43

Flush it, quickly!!!

Your cylinders will pit, and fluid will start bypassing the cups. Which will result in loss of pressure in the master cylinder, and leaking at the wheel cylinders. 7 or so boat units for the rebuils.....I don't know why water is getting in, it shoud not.
You say you're rope launching. What supports the hitch? Is it high enough? Some people put a nice beefy rubber wheel on the crank support (as in the big casters you buy in the real hardware stores....) Do you submerge the forward roller? My WB will float up to the roller, and then I use the winch to crank it up and forward the last few inches.
Also, the pitch of the ramp is important. The steeper, the better. Keeps the hitch out of the water.
Finally, have you looked into a hitch extender?

Oscar
<img src="http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/Images/familypics/LKforumshot.jpg" border=0>
Lady Kay 250 WB #618
In the driveway in Behtlehem, PA ready to go anytime.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2003 : 17:46:54

Brad... you raise an interesting question. I'm not sure if the caps are vented or what precautions or concerns are involved with emersion...

I do recall that when I replaced my actuator...Champion Trailers had two reasons they reccomended the Demco over the one supplied by Trailrite. 1. At the time, Demco offered rebuilt kits for the actuators and the other brand didn't. 2. The Demco has a raised boss for the cap. Champion seemed to think rain water enters the caps on those mounted on a flat surface actuator.

Could you use some wide vynal or duct tape to cover the cap before submerging?

Arlyn C-250 W/B #224
<img src="http://www.stewartfam.net/arlyn/rr.jpg" border=0>
N/E Texas and Great Lakes

[url="http://www.cox-internet.com/arlynstewart/"]Arlyn's C250 Mods n Cruisin Stories[/url]

Edited by - on

BJ Wagner
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
50 Posts

Response Posted - 04/03/2003 : 23:42:25

Oscar - The wing keel trailers have to go much deeper than the water ballest in order to get the boat to float. The coupler on my trailer is under 3 feet of water at least, before the wing keel will float.

I use a 40' piece of 3/4" line and have a small wheel on the tounge of my trailer. The 40' of line is overkill, but it keeps my wheels on my truck on the dry part of the ramp.

Arlyn - My trailer was made by Trail Rite (1998). I am going to give them a call in the morning and see what they suggest. I do know that I have to get the water out of the system and quick.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

Brad Wagner
C-250 Wing Keel #361
Lake Pleasant, AZ

Edited by - on

Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2003 : 11:42:55

Trail Rite's number is 714-556-4540
I did business with Rob, he's knowledgeable and firendly.

Oscar
<img src="http://www.woodenshoemusic.com/Images/familypics/LKforumshot.jpg" border=0>
Lady Kay 250 WB #618
In the driveway in Behtlehem, PA ready to go anytime.

Edited by - on

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