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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

obvious probs with staning rigging

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77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/15/2003 : 13:43:44

my mast and roller furler are both unstepped, are there any ovious was to check the integrity of the standing rigging or should i have it professionally done. i've never done this type of work before so any advice would be great!

Steven de Filippis
78 catalina 25 - Gypsy

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2003 : 14:23:59

Steven,<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... any obvious way to check the integrity of the standing rigging...?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>The most popular method seems to be crossing your fingers and ignoring it. Just kidding.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle> The most popular method seems to be visual inspection, preferably with magnification.

My gut instinct is to combine visual inspection with non-destructive load testing. In other words, if the specifications say that a particular component, or system of components is rated to withstand at least 6,000 pounds of tension, then carefully and precisely apply 6,000 pounds of tension, while taking appropriate safety precautions just in case a component fails. When I worked in the aerospace industry, this sort of test was done routinely, especially with lifting equipment. I've asked around a little bit about testing sailboat standing rigging this way, but it doesn't seem to be the way things are normally done.

A crude substitute might be to get some light line with a known and consistant breaking strength, let's say 500 pounds give or take 10 pounds. Use six wraps (twelve strands) of that to attach one end of a section of standing rigging to the trailer hitch of a truck. Attach the other end of the section of standing rigging to something that can withstand a 6,000 pound pull (in this example). Pull slowly with the truck until the six wraps (twelve strands) of 500 pound test line break. Remember not to be standing too close! At that point, you can say that the section of standing rigging can withstand at least 6,000 pounds of tension. But that's just an idea off the top of my head. Don't hold me liable if it doesn't work out that way.

-- Leon Sisson

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5908 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2003 : 15:10:08

Steven,

For a visual inspection, look for any kinks or meathooks in the cable. Also, check all the parts of all the turnbuckles to see if any of them are bent. Carefully examine the point at which each wire is connected to each screw fitting for any sign of any broken cable wires.

If you know how to contact the previous owner, ask him when, if ever, the standing rigging was ever replaced.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

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Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 04/15/2003 : 23:43:13

The most common area for failure is right where the wire enters the swage terminal. If your boat has been used in salt water at all, it is a certainty that chloride has gotten into the swage terminal and is slowly weakening the wire strands. In the last year or two, most rigging shops have supposedly learned to impregnate the end of the wire with epoxy or polysulfide before inserting it into the swage terminal and crimping it, to make the swage joint more resistant to penetration of moisture and corrosive chemicals, but no standing rigging component has an infinite life span. Look right at the interface between the wire strands and the swage terminal for any sign of discoloration. If you see even the slightest hint of orange, the wires are corroding inside the swage terminal and should be replaced. Same goes for your keel cable if your boat is a swing keel.

Larry Charlot
Catalina 25 #1205 "Quiet Time"
Sacramento, CA

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RoofRoof
Navigator

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USA
186 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2003 : 00:49:17

Rigging is VERY important stuff. Pay a professional. You don't fix your own teeth, or do your own brain surgery, do you?

I had a professional rigger tune my rig, and he checked over everything as part of the deal. I don't remember it costing more a couple hundred dollars. Pretty sure it was less.

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77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2003 : 11:15:14

Thaknsk for all the useful info, i think i'll have a pro look at it and then try to change what has to be changed myself, if i have any difficulty, i'll pay someone. by the way what is a "swage terminal"?

Steven de Filippis
78 catalina 25 - Gypsy

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/16/2003 : 20:52:31

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...by the way what is a "swage terminal"?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
It's the cylindrical collar around the end of the cable, attaching the cable to whatever hardware is at its end--an eye, a turnbuckle, or whatever. As Larry says, the most common failure point is not visible--it's just below the edge of the swage above the turnbuckle, where water (worse if its saltwater) migrates down the cable. To make things worse, stainless requires oxygen to prevent "crevice" deterioration, or cracking due to deterioration of the metal. So, while sealants may slow the deterioration caused by salt, stainless won't last forever. The best experts I've talked to suggest replacement of standing rigging within 20 years in salt water. Some say 15. I haven't asked about fresh water, but I'd say that by 20 years, it's done enough. I plan to take the mast down next fall and replace mine, even though I don't know whether it's 18 years old or not.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2003 : 08:48:48

http://www.briontoss.com/education/fairleads.html

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 04/18/2003 : 09:51:43

Steve,

I use fast drying nail polish at the swage/cable joint both to keep salt out and to indicate a joint that is slipping. If I see a space where the cable enters the end fitting that cable is about to fail and should be replaced. Check cotter pins and circlips for fatigue and wear. The meat hook test that Steve M. mentioned is done with a hand full of soft cloth or kapok or batting and run along the cable. If you encounter a meat hook the material will snag on it and that cable is history as well.

Val on Calista # 3936

Val Bisagni]<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df11b3127cce94709c5ff2e90000000010" border=0>

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77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Response Posted - 04/21/2003 : 14:01:45

i'm having the whole rigging surveyed anyway, it'll get rid or some of the anxiety

Steven de Filippis
78 catalina 25 - Gypsy

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