Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
some may remember my mast tabernacle giving way and the lag screws ripping out of my foredeck...I am now looking into the best repair...some have suggested the troughbolt technique...this kinda concerns me in case it rips out again for some reason...do you all prefer resin, or epoxy to fill and drill or is there something better. Maybe something new since I last asked for input?
Rick Price "79" 25' SK/Standard Hull # 1237 Tacoma, Wa
Thanks for reminding me, I need to do that job this year, too. I use a product called "Git Rot" for filling deteriorated wood. The manufacturer claims it works its way into and around the wood fibers and makes it stronger than original. It has worked for me. I have always been able to find it at marine supply stores.
I thru-bolted the tabernacle on my 1979 C-25. To prepare the holes, I drilled them out to 1/2", taped over the bottom, poured them full of fiber reinforced epoxy resin, redrilled back to 1/4", and slightly countersunk at the deck. The forward two bolts came through in the head compartment, no problem. The aft two bolts came through right at the aft corners of the mast comparession post. I used a small wood chisel and maybe a Dremel to cut notches in the compression post for the nuts, washers, and open end wrench. <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>... troughbolt technique ... this kinda concerns me in case it rips out again for some reason ...<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>Once thru-bolted as described, you could probably lift the entire boat by that tabernacle without it pulling loose.
Like Leon I tried the method of thru-bolting the tabernacle but I didn't like the result. The bolts in the compression post were only partly contained in the post and the ones that came through the head liner were at a slight angle. I decided to use a 1/2 inch forsner bit and drill a 2 inch deep whole for each lag bolt. I then filled each hole with thickened epoxy resin. Into each of these holes I carefully placed a lag bolt that had been covered with wax. I used the step as a template to make sure the bolts were lined up correctly. When all was cured I simply backed the bolts out with a ratchet and reinstalled the step. I think I have reduced the chances of any water intrusion into the deck core and provided a really strong base for the step to rest on.
I have used the method that Ray Clift describes for producing tapped threads in epoxy with a waxed bolt or screw. (That's not how I did my tabernacle, but I agree that it would work there just fine. Good job, Ray.) It requires a more skill than the method I described, but it really works! It's especially handy where you need a strong, removable attachment, but thru-bolting isn't practical. It might come in handy for attaching deck hardware like rope clutches, where you don't want to be whacking your head on the nuts sticking down from the headliner. Just be sure you get the right amount of wax on the threads...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.