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re-bedding stanchions or chainplates

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ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/28/2003 : 21:38:20

I read an earlier post about re-bedding teak, so I'm going to use polysulfite. (I'm trying to get rid of some annoying leaks.)
I have not yet unscrewed the stanchions to remove the stern rail or bow pulpit (is that what it's called?). Same for the bases of the chainplates.
But I was thinking ... I wonder what I could put in the screw hole to give the screw something more to bite into. If I was replacing some door hardware at home, I might use a wooden match to stick in the hole before I put the screw back in. I have some golf tees I will never use.
What should I do, oh masters of Catalina lore?
Thanks

Cap'n Dave
Sailing The Blues
1986 C25 sr/sk #5413

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/29/2003 : 01:34:17

If I read yout thread correctly . . . the stanchion and pulpit screws are machine threads - not sheetmetal or wood. We suggest drilling an oversized hole, fill it with an epoxy/filler mix, then drill the original/smaller diameter hole. This creates a collar of epoxy around the screw hole to guard against water entering the deck core. Remount hardware with polysulfide.
Good luck.

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John Mason
Admiral

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687 Posts

Response Posted - 04/29/2003 : 14:42:08

I second Steve's suggestion of epoxy sealing the deck core-good preventative maintenance.

What holds the stanchions, stern rail and bow pulpit are bolts, not screws. Look underneath, you'll find washers and nuts.

John Mason
<img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/ali.jpg" border=0>
pronounced "Ali Paroosa"
1982 - FK/SR #3290

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 04/29/2003 : 20:46:03

Being a little lazy but also anxious to prevent core damage, I plan to remove my stanchions and use a pipe cleaner or similar device to swab something like Git Rot (very thin epoxy) inside the holes. I'll allow it to soak into the core and set up, and then re-bed the stanchions.

I've been told, incidentally, that it is not best to bed the entire stanchion base, but rather just the individual bolts. That way, when water enters the stanchion through the lifeline holes, it has a way to drain out at the bottom.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 04/30/2003 : 00:12:43

Never never never never never use silicone never. Life caulk / polysulfide is the way to go.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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769 Posts

Response Posted - 04/30/2003 : 11:12:49

Hi Dave,

Instead of rebedding all of the stanchions, et al, to take care of you errant leak problem - have you tried the "old" chalk trick. It's been mentioned several times over the past years. The idea is to get some powdered chalk (like you'd use with a chalk line) and sprinkle the chalk around a suspect fitting (stanchion, cleat, etc), then pour some water around the fitting. If that fitting is the "leaker" some chalk will come through with the water and you will know which fitting needs attention.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

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Dave B
Admiral

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Mali
863 Posts

Response Posted - 04/30/2003 : 21:25:13

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Never never never never never use silicone never. Life caulk / polysulfide is the way to go.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
I'm reluctant to disagree with anyone sailing an Alberg, but I'll suggest that there may be an exception to Doug's rule... The upper shroud chainplates pass completely through the side decks and are bolted to the plywood bulkheads. It may depend somewhat on how tight your rig is, but these chainplates can move up and down a fraction of an inch through the slot in the deck, which is covered by a rectangular frame with a couple of screws. I wouldn't argue against bedding the frame with polysulfide, but before doing so, I would suggest forcing some silicone down the slot around the chainplate. The reason is that silicone is the most elastic sealant you can find, and should maintain its seal between the deck and the chainplate bar regardless of the movement. One knock on silicone is that it doesn't do well against UV, but there won't be any in there. Another knock is that it's hard to remove all traces, but down in that slot with the chainplate in place, you're not going to remove anything.

Some things are better for some things, and others are for others.

Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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4382 Posts

Response Posted - 04/30/2003 : 22:55:52

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.