Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Arlyn brought up a new question for me when he was discussing round up on the C250wk. I have a C250wb standard rig and I have never had any really problems with round up even on the SF Bay. May be I am used to dealing with it. The problem with my third generation rudder is that I have trouble lifting it when I want to trailer it. The small lifting cord and the lifting angle will not let me pull it up even when I loosen the bolt on which the rudder pivots. Sometimes, I have to pry and lift the bottom of the rudder with a boat hook befor I can raise it. It seems that its pivot point is too far aft. Don't get me wrong, this is great for keeping the rudder down but it adds another problem when trailering. I was curious if anyone else has experienced this problem.
Robert...your describing a beaching rudder which would be the 2nd rather than the third which was never produced in a beaching version. And, your quite right, the 2nd generation has a lot of lift and is not given to rounding up problems...
There are two mods that will make you very happy with your current rudder. The first is if your unhappy about the degree of torque your dealing with...then look at my tech tip on my web site and see the mod to rake the bottom of the rudder forward and balance it.
The second, is required for the first...but will solve the specific problems your having with lifting and lowering the rudder. In a nutshell... abandon the rivet-detent hold down system by removing the rivets in the rudder (just pry them out with a thin knife under the lip of the rivets) and set the tensioner to allow the rudder to freely swing.
Then, add a cheek block on the forward lower port side of the rudder head and a cleat near the top of the rudder head but under the tiller mounts. Run a piece of bungee cord from the same location aft where the lift up line is secured thru the cheek block to the cleat. The cleat should be captive. I used a very reasonably price cleat available at Harbor Freight and Tool called a Cal Cleat (sold in pairs right and left).
This will provide dual line handling of the rudder via the stock pull up line and now the bungee pull down line. The bungee has no problems holding the rudder down and of course will offer forgivness if the rudder is grounded.
You may need to slack the lift line from the cleat...then hold it a few inches aft of the rudder head and lift...doesn't take much force... rather than pulling it thru the cleat. The pull down is far superior to the original system and holds the rudder against the head and therefore eliminates the increasing torque incurred by a rudder which positions itself aft by the worn rivet dentent system. The rudder will also retract back down after a grounding rather than leaving the boat without helm.
Thanks Arlyn, Your right it is a beaching rudder. I will print your recommendation and consider it for next season. Right now I am looking at a possible weather window for unwrapping it, cleaning it up and getting it off the hard. That is if I don't get called in for work. Isn't retirement wonderful.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.