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 how does one remove varnish? i spilled some
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77Gypsy
Captain

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USA
356 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/04/2003 :  21:29:52  Show Profile
i re-varnighed my companion way doors and the wood trip on the deck but in the process, i spilled a nice amount on the deck and it hardened. how can i remove it without damaging the fiberglass and/or paint?

Steven de Filippis
78 C25 SR/FK - Gypsy

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2003 :  22:50:39  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Steven,

<center>Re: <b>Spilled varnish on gelcoat.</b></center>

As soon as possible, wipe the spilled varnish up with paper towels (or rags) dampened with paint thinner. By now, you may need to rub a bit too. The paint thinner shouldn't hurt your gelcoat if you don't leave it on there. Finish up with dishwashing liquid and water, wipe dry. I generally remove my teak from the boat for refinishing so as to avoid that very problem.

-- Leon Sisson



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77Gypsy
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356 Posts

Response Posted - 05/04/2003 :  23:28:47  Show Profile
i think next time i will take the teak off also, unfortunately, i noticed the varnish about 5 hours or so after it dried. i came home and i won't be able to get back to it till next weekend. am i S.O.L. or can the paint thinner still work after a week?

Steven de Filippis
78 C25 SR/FK - Gypsy

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Champipple
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6855 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2003 :  08:41:23  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
Just remember to thoroughly rinse the area you use mineral spirits, paint thinner, Interlux 202 or acetone.

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/dreamimages/Flags/measurer.jpg" border=0>

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2003 :  15:39:36  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I generally remove my teak from the boat for refinishing so as to avoid that very problem.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

I am not (unfortunately) sitting on my boat now, nor even near it, but I need to refinish my teak too. I would like to take the teak off of the boat, but I don't know how to take it off. The other ends of the screws must be hidden somehow. Can you advise how you take the teak off for refinishing?

Thanks
Loren Souers, Skipper
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake


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Leon Sisson
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Response Posted - 05/05/2003 :  15:58:13  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Loren,<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>The other ends of the screws must be hidden somehow. Can you advise how you take the teak off for refinishing?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>On my 1979 Catalina 25, none of the screws holding the exterior teak were hidden. The closest thing to hidden was that the interior slide rail for the companionway drop boards has to come off first and go back on last. What boat do you have?

-- Leon Sisson



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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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3322 Posts

Response Posted - 05/05/2003 :  20:51:16  Show Profile
Loren - if you look at the headliner, on each side are 2 lines of screws running fore and aft. The outer ones attach the handrails and the inners hold the teak slides for the hatch. The companionway slides are as Leon states. The teak trim on the coaming boxes in the cockpit are usually "siliconed" in place. (I'm headed for the boat tomorrow to finish refinishing all my exterior teak.) <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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RichardG
Admiral

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990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2003 :  00:19:13  Show Profile
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>On my 1979 Catalina 25, none of the screws holding the exterior teak were hidden. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Loren and Leon:

Some of the fasteners are beneath teaks plugs on my '81 C25 -- outside threshold, interior slide rail and "wings" (?) on both sides of the upper cockpit bulkhead. Also, I had to remove a few teak plugs on the handrails to replace the machine screws because the threads near the ends were flattened by the acorn nuts on the inside.

I noticed none of these fasteners are beneath teak plugs on my slip neighbor's '78 C25 (other than on the handrails, which don't necessarily need to be removed to remove the piece).

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d725b3127cce907c1ad9acaf0000001610" border=0>

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2003 :  11:19:05  Show Profile
Leon, Derek, and RichardG,
Thanks for the info. I will take a look this weekend. My C25 is an 85 standard rig full keel. It is probably the same. I just haven't paid attention to the screws overhead. IF the teak comes off, I can take it home and clean it up. That would make it much easier.

Thanks to all, and fair breezes,
Loren Souers
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake


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John Mason
Admiral

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687 Posts

Response Posted - 05/06/2003 :  17:45:28  Show Profile
Steven,
As to the dried spilled varnish. How clean is/was your deck? I've had good luck at times (because my boat's deck wasn't perfectly clean) getting under an edge of the dried varnish (in my case - epoxy) with a thin putty knife and chipping it up. Sometimes it will come up as one big piece.

If it's a smooth section of deck, I can put the putty knife against the edge of the varnish at a shallow angle and give it a rap. Like hammering a chisel. The whole piece just breaks loose. Just be careful if you try this method and keep the blade of the putty knife flat. You catch a corner of the putty knife and you can gouge the deck. This method works better, the thicker the puddle is.

John Mason
<img src="http://www.users.qwest.net/~jamason/ali.jpg" border=0>
pronounced "Ali Paroosa"
1982 - FK/SR #3290

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